Tails-A-Wagging Dog Blog

Choosing a Dog Trainer

2012-02-04T21:20:00.000-08:00

Too many dogs are given up after their normal, easily modifiable behaviors are allowed to become problems.

But it doesn't have to be this way. To prevent your dog from becoming a sad statistic, take your dog—and your family—to a professional dog training class. A good training class is a fun, social activity that helps your dog become a well-behaved, safe, and valued family member. This information will help you find the dog trainer and class environment that best fits your budget and needs.

Why training is a necessity

Whether you are intentionally teaching him or not, your canine friend is always learning—and this is true not just for puppies but also for older, adult dogs. If you do not teach your pet your rules, he will invent his own. Training allows caregivers to safely and humanely control their dog's behavior. Positive training enhances the bond between dog and owner, and helps ensure that your dog will respond happily to your instructions.

What to look for in a trainer

It's essential that the dog trainer you select uses humane training techniques that encourage appropriate behavior through such positive reinforcement as food, attention, play, or praise. Look for a trainer who ignores undesirable responses or withholds rewards until the dog behaves appropriately. Training techniques should never involve yelling, choking, shaking the scruff, tugging on the leash, alpha rolling (forcing the dog onto his back), or other actions that frighten or inflict pain.

Where to find a trainer

A recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society, boarding kennel, or groomer is a good place to start. You can also search online or check the Yellow Pages under "Pet Training." Don't assume that a trainer's membership in a dog trainer association qualifies him as a suitable instructor: Not all associations' membership criteria will meet your expectations. Also, because no government agency regulates or licenses trainers, it's that much more important to investigate their qualifications before enrolling in a class. Find out how many years of experience they have, how they were educated, and what training methods they use. Ask prospective trainers for several references from clients who completed the classes.

Which class format is best?

In group classes, dogs learn to interact with other dogs, accept handling by other people, and respond to their owners despite distractions. Owners learn by observing other people interacting with their dogs and benefit from the camaraderie. Self-help training, private lessons, and dog-only lessons that exclude the owner do not provide these important advantages. Another disadvantage of dog-only lessons is that the dog may respond well for the trainer but may not transfer what she has learned to you and your family.When possible, all family members should participate in the dog's training. By learning to communicate humanely and effectively with their canine friend, they will develop bonds that will form the basis of the entire relationship.

Group classes

Ask the trainer whether you can observe a class in session before signing up.

Watch for the following:Is class size limited to allow for individual attention?

Are there separate classes for puppies and adult dogs?

Are there different class levels (for example, beginner, intermediate, and advanced)?

Are training equipment and methods humane?

Does the trainer use a variety of methods to meet dogs' individual needs?

Is proof of vaccination required?

Are the students, both human and canine, enjoying themselves?

Are dogs and owners actively encouraged?

Is praise given frequently?Are voice commands given in upbeat tones?

Are lesson handouts available?

Is information available on how dogs learn, basic grooming, problem solving, and related topics?

The cost of a trainer

Training costs vary, depending on where you live and the type of instruction you want. Private lessons are usually priced per session; many group lessons are priced for several weeks of sessions. Some animal shelters offer subsidized training programs; the price of several weeks of sessions may depend on whether you adopted your dog from that shelter and the number of class sessions it provides.

The best age for training

Although "puppyhood" is the best time to train and socialize dogs, older dogs can learn new tricks, too. In fact, dogs of all ages can benefit from training. Dogs between 8 and 16 weeks of age should be enrolled in puppy classes. Regular classes are appropriate for dogs 6 months or older.

Before you go

When you have selected a training program:Have your dog examined by your veterinarian to ensure your pet is healthy, free from parasites, and up-to-date on vaccinations.Don't feed your dog a large meal before class because many trainers rely on food treats to encourage or reward desired behavior.Bring the training equipment recommended by the trainer.Practice between classes with brief lessons that end on a positive note.By enrolling and actively participating in a dog training class, you will help your dog become not just a well-behaved member of your family, but also a safer member of your community.

For more information on choosing a dog trainer, consult the Association of Pet Dog Trainers* at 150 Executive Center Drive, Box 35, Greenville, SC 29615; call 800-PET-DOGS or visit them online at www.apdt.com.

information available from HSUS

Snow Babies

2012-01-19T22:52:00.000-08:00

Dogs love snow... ok, let me re phrase that. Big dogs love snow. Little dogs, far too often, think snow is just a dirty trick. But, really, think about it from your little dogs perspective. Their chest is inches from the ground (and in my dog Morocco's case his chest touches even the freshly mowed grass), so going outside in the cold icy snow is more than just wet feet!

If your little dog is having issues going potty in the snow, consider getting a small patch of artificial grass to place on the ground, near their favorite potty spot. It will keep them on the routine of going to the bathroom outside, but it will allow for drier conditions, making it more comfortable to be outside.

Help for your dogs itchy winter skin

2011-11-11T21:03:00.000-08:00

Although you and your veterinarian may see more hot spots on your dog in the summer, we often see generalized itchy skin in the fall, just as the weather cools. Sometimes we see this as a result of allergies, but often it can just be the dry indoor air.

Here is a good remedy I have been using for a long time. Its works well for hot spots in a beginning stage, as well as inflamed, itchy skin. I often use this remedy 2 or 3 times a day to stop itching with my pet, and have seen if halt a hot spot in its tracks!

One of my dogs Morocco Mole is highly allergic to cats! Sorry Morocco, we live with 6 cats and they were here first... for him, the best method is to reduce his exposure to the cats (vacuum daily, move the cat beds so he can't get in them etc), but when I find him snuggled up to one of his feline buddies, he breaks out in hives. This remedy works every time to give him relief.

1 oz Aloe Vera Juice (not gel)

20 drops St Johns Wort (liquid herbal extract)

20 drops Calendula (liquid herbal extract)

Put all into a small spray bottle and shake before applying. Spray 2 to 3 times a day, as needed. Stays fresh for 2 weeks

Its safe if licked off the skin, but has a slight bitter taste so pets are good about leaving it alone.

Remember, be sure to have your pet evaluated by your veterinarian if the condition persists

Give it a try!

Puppy Owners, don't pass on the oppurtunity

2011-10-25T17:44:00.000-07:00

Halloween is just around the corner. Time for parties, candy and a good scare... quality dog trainers know its also a special time too...

If you have a puppy less than 8 months of age, look at Halloween as a excellent opportunity to work on getting your puppy used to certain things that can cause an adult dog fear.

Costumes, scary noises, kids running about... all can be very scary stuff for an under socialized dog.

Look at this time as an opportunity to show your puppy that these things are good and trustworthy. Do you have a busy trick-o-treating neighborhood? Sit in a chair on your porch with a bowl of candy for the kids and a pocket full of tasty treats for pup. Reward your pup every time they see someone in costume or make a funny noise. They will make the association that the "scary" things are good. Not your scene? Head over to one of the many THRILLER-zombie performances this weekend. In one afternoon you can scratch loud music, costumes, scary noises and crowds off your puppies to-do socialization list.

Just remember to bring food treats that puppy will not say no to (think cheese or canned chicken)

Also, if pup is very young and not yet finished with their vaccine history, plan on carrying them rather than them walking on leash as they do not get have adequate immunity to protect them.

Look at all of this as an opportunity to expose pup. Remember, what puppy has a pleasurable experience with now- they will not fear later. Happy HOW-O-WEEN!

Puppy Pre School

2011-09-07T18:54:00.000-07:00

Paws down... this is my favorite class.

Not only do I get to play with baby puppies for an hour, I get to impact the lives of many people in our community with our mission and goals that we all share at Tails.

We are here to make dogs' lives better. Plain and simple. One of the ways we do that is by teaching their guardians the importance of socialization and bite inhibition- the two core principals of Puppy Pre School.

Dogs are social creatures, they need to be with their own species and have dependable-predictable relationships with other dogs. They learn those social behaviors very early in life, and what better way than to meet other socials, well mannered pups in their same developmental stage.

We often shock people, usually other trainers, who cannot believe we offer Puppy Pre School at no charge. Yes, its true... any healthy, vaccinated pup ages 9 week to 14 week can attend our Puppy Pre School for free. Why? Socialization saves lives. And you can't make a dogs life better, if they are not here to help.

There certainly are puppies we see at Puppy Pre School, for 6 free session and never see again in our classes, and that's OK. I run into those pups all the time- at the dog park, at dog festivals etc. and everyone tells me how grateful they are for us giving them the opportunity to create a social dog. These dogs, even though we only saw them for a short time, learned proper social behavior, they learned bite inhibition and their guardians learned about body language and dog friendly training methods.

We did our job. We helped make their life better.

When are Children Ready for a Puppy?

2011-08-05T13:38:00.000-07:00

Dear Tails,

Kids are bugging us to get a puppy… when is the best age of our children to get a dog?

Thanks,

Foster Family

Hi Foster Family,

In general, I think parents should hold off on getting a puppy until the youngest child is about 7 yrs old… I have several reasons.

· Kids younger than 7, tend to have shaky eye-hand coordination and poor reflexes. This can make it difficult for them to interact with the pup without stumbling, loosing balance and being constantly knocked down.

· Kids under 7 tend to have poor impulse control, when they get angry then tend to act it out and frequently their frustration is aimed at the weakest link in the family- the pet.

· Young kids often have nightmares involving animals which can make them timid or fearful around real animals.

· Kids under 7 rarely have the ability for abstract thought, and cannot overcome the natural tendency toward ego-centrism. Basically everything revolves around the child. This prevents them from understanding empathy in caring for a pet, as well as not knowing the difference between a stuffed toy and a real dog. Young kids tend to play too rough with puppies, wanting to pick them up, carry them around and twist their bodies.

A mis-treated pup quickly learns a fear of children and other similarly-moving, squeaky, smelly children (no offense)

Best to wait until the kids are a bit older or consider an adult rescue dog, one who has already been proven good with kids.

Dog Parks

2011-07-14T16:13:00.000-07:00

Dog Parks
We are lucky enough to have 8 off leash areas here in Bellingham. They all have their good and bad points, here are just a few things worth mentioning.

Blodel Donavan: Nice group of dogs who go regularly. The group is maintained well by some regulars (two legged) that will keep dogs and people in line. Good for well behaved dogs, but expect to be “called out” if your dog is not a good pup! Note the off leash times: During daylight hours from October 1 to April 30 and until 10:00 am from May 1 to September 30.

Lake Padden: Only fully fenced area in Bellingham. Because of that you are going to get dogs that can’t be trusted in an open area without a fence. If they have poor boundary manners there is a good chance they have other issues as well. Dogs tend to be over ruley there and people tend to “check out” while chatting on their cell phones or socializing with people more than their dogs. Area does have a fenced small dog area, which is rare. This park has 4 entrances. If you are new use the entrance in the back near the horse trails. Never enter near the bathrooms if there is a big crowd of people and dogs.

Fairhaven: Two main areas, the large field and area near the water. This is inside the sewage treatment plant. Wonderful area, but a bit too close to the railroad track for me (if near the water) Due to its proximity to the college, it tends to get a lot of young people. Not a bad thing, but be aware of young college kids and out of control dogs.

Arroyo Park: All Trails are off leash, for dogs and horses… we aware of lots of horse poop and lots of hills. A favorite for mountain biking too.

Sunset Pond: All trails plus the water are designated for water exercise and training area. This too is a bit too close to the road for my liking, but great water area for doggie swimmers.
Sehome Hill Arboretum: All secondary trails are off leash, Dogs must be on leashes on all paved trails plus the Jersey Street and Arboretum Walkway which are the two trails at the bottom of the Arboretum abutting the University campus. Nice area, some trails can get pretty narrow so make sure your dog is good at passing other dogs off leash. Sometimes there is no room to move off to the side of the trail.

Little Squalicum Park: All Trails are off leash (Note - Little Squalicum Creek may contain hazardous chemical which may be harmful to animals- so I never recommend this area.
Whatcom Falls: A great area. The Waterline Trail (south of Whatcom Creek) west of the Water Treatment Plant to Bayview Cemetery and the trail from the Waterline Trail south to Lakeway- is all off leash. Nice secondary trail to the right after the Bayview Cemetery junction. Careful of the drop off to the right, near the Falls.

Although we are advocates for good dogs at dog parks, we never recommend a pup attend a dog park until after 7 months of age. Dogs are far too impressionable and its too risky who they may run into at the dog park, so it’s important to make sure your dog is behaviorally sound before attending. Think of it this way: if your puppy hangs out with other good puppies and dogs then they will be a good dog, but if they hang out with a bunch of juvenile delinquents ( just who you might run into at the dog park) they too will become little stinkers too.
Only you are your dogs advocate, its up to you to set them up to succeed.

2011-07-14T16:02:00.001-07:00

Tug with your dog

2011-04-12T18:14:00.000-07:00

Is it ok to tug with our dogs or not! Ah, the game of tug. In a nutshell, yes… playing tug with your dog is not only ok, but it can be a very rewarding game for the both of you. No, it won’t make for a dominant dog, no it won’t make a dog aggressive…but like any game there are rules, and both you and your dog should follow them.

Rule #1 Use only appropriate tug toys. Long, non-stuffed plushies, cotton rope toys or rubber tug toys are all good choices. Don’t get in the habit of using just anything, designate toys for tug and use them for those reasons. If your dog tends to “cinch up” on the end of the tug toward you, get a tug toy with a spacer between your hand and the dogs mouth, often the spacer is a ball or knot

Rule #2 Humans start the game and humans stop the game. This is to prevent demand behaviors. If you have a dog that drops toys in your lap to initiate play, this is a dog that has you wrapped around his paws! Remember to ignore demand behaviors, simply get up and walk away.

Rule #3 If the dog does not give up the item when asked, work on teaching give and take before you engage in tug and fetch games.

Rule #4 It’s ok to pull the tug side to side, but not up and down. Up and down is too stressful on the dogs’ neck.

Rule#5 Have fun!

Four on the Floor

2011-03-10T14:12:00.000-08:00

Ahh, look at the cute baby puppy jumping up…ya its cute now, but its going to get old real fast. Especially when that puppy becomes a 65 lbs adult dog.
Jumping up can make an otherwise great dog an obnoxious nuisance- A dog that some visitors and family member begin to avoid.

First, look at the situation from your dog’s point of view. He is simply excited to see you. Dogs enjoy greeting face to face and its not his fault we are 6 feet tall! Dogs are opportunistic and they simply want your attention. He quickly has figured out that jumping up is a great way to get it. You tell him to stop and push him off, saying his name a few times with a big “No”. Your dog thinks: Ya for me! This works great! I jump up and you stop everything you are doing and put the focus on me! Dogs don’t care if the only attention they get is negative one, if that is all they are going to get, they’ll take it just fine.

Dogs only do what works (hmmm, sounds familiar doesn’t it) As long as he continues to get attention (yes, even bad attention) for the behavior he will continue to do it.

Dogs need to learn that a calm and relaxed dog gets far more attention than one who is jumping up (or barking or whining or generally being pushy)

Next time your dog jumps up on you, say nothing, fold your arms across your chest and turn your back to your dog. Don’t look at him, don’t talk to him, and don’t acknowledge him in any way. He may move and come to your front, simply turn again- your back to the dog. At first he may think he needs to jump MORE to get you attention (remember it has work VERY well for him up till now) Just be diligent, stay quiet and keep turning your back to him. As soon as he shows any sings of calm, such as keeping all four feet on the ground, quickly give him a treat and praise him. If your dog is trained to sit, have him do this before giving the treat and praising. You are simply teaching your dog what you NOW want him to do to get the reward HE wants.

Remember the Doggie Golden Rule: Dogs would rather be praised than punished but they would rather be punished than ignored!

Breaking bad habits takes time to overcome. Expect to repeat this exercise for some time… and expect it to possible get worse before it gets better. Be patient, be consistent and make sure everyone in the family is on the same page- doing the exact same thing.

Crate Training

2011-02-25T10:18:00.000-08:00

Crate Training

Utilizing a crate for your dog can be very positive for both you and the dog. Dogs are den animals and if the crate is properly introduced and use appropriately, dogs see it as a safe, secure relaxing space of their very own. Do you not like the idea of a crate? Not surprising… YOU are not a den animal.

The key to crate training, for any age of dog, is to make the crate a happy place to be. Never use the crate for punishment and never force a dog into a crate.

Crates are a part of life… staying at the vet for any length of time? Your dog is in a crate. Going to the groomer? Your dog is in a crate. Thinking of sending your dog to day care? Your dog needs to rest in a crate for naptime. Being transported in the car? (Hopefully) Your dog is in a crate. You can see, even if YOU do not want to utilize a crate for sleeping at home, crate training your dog essential to keeping them safe and happy. Knowing crates are a part of life, why cause your dog any unnecessary stress by not being crate trained?

For a puppy, crate training should start at 4 weeks of age. Your breeder or rescue group should place multiple small crates in the whelping area. Pups will naturally gravitate to the crates for comfort. As they do, and grow it will be naturally more comfortable for the pups to seek a crate out individually. This allows one to crate train with minimal effort. As the pups age, one will position crates farther and farther apart (eventually in separate rooms by 9 weeks of age), so by the time the pup is going to your new home they are already accustomed to sleeping alone in a crate at night.

If you are crate training your pup or dog for the first time begin with a crate that fits them comfortably. Your dog should be able to walk into the crate with out ducking his head. He should be able to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably in the crate. For puppies, we suggest a Life Stages Crate (available at PetStop). These crates have barriers you can use to make a larger crate smaller for your puppy. (We don’t want the crate too big for puppy or they may eliminate in the crate and sleep at the other end)

Set the crate up in a quiet but not far from family activity. Open the crate door and secure it to prevent it from closing suddenly on your dog. Now go a bout your day… let pup explore the crate on his own. Toss treats in every so often; once pup is happy to go in begin to feed your pup in the crate. Play games with the crate by tossing a new toy in the crate. Never force your pup into the crate and don’t use the crate for punishment.

Once puppy is eating in the crate (door is still open all the time) at one feeding, put a few kibbles in the crate and when he walks in gently close the door. Immediately praise him and give him more kibble (thru the door/grate), do this for 5 minutes. The rewards all happen INSIDE the crate with door closed. Begin to extend the time he is in the crate, and begin to walk out of site of the crate. Go slow, never pushing puppy to far too fast. Be sure the rewards happen in the crate not when the puppy leaves the crate. Puppy is learning its much more fun to be in that outside the crate.

Graduate to a high value chew like a pizzle or peanut butter stuffed Kong or other interactive food stuffed toy.

As puppy feels more confident and secure you can begin to extend his time in the crate.

Other Tips:
Your pup can sleep all night in the crate but only up to 4 hrs during waking hours before needing an active break of at least 60 minutes.

Make sure pup is well exercised and has fully eliminated before going into crate.

Don’t get excited and praise your pup as the exit or after they come out of the crate.

Never allow a pup to leave a crate if they are fussing, whining or barking. If they are, realize YOU went too far too fast and you need to take more time. But you’ll have to wait for pup to be quiet before letting them out.

Be sure to practice crate time when you are home and doing normal activity, not just when you leave.

A comfortable bed inside the crate is essential.

Good Luck. A crate trained dog is a happy dog

Furbaby Rescue

2011-02-15T11:44:00.000-08:00

As many of you know, I volunteer with Furbaby Rescue. They rescue, foster and place small breed dogs. We donate day care, training classes, temperament evaluations and foster dogs (usually Chihuahuas) for them. We love FBR and are so thankful Eleni; the executive director is there!

Like most small rescues the adoption fees for a dog are considerably higher than they would be at a shelter. Last night, after getting an email requesting information about one of the puppies we have at Furbaby, I got a nasty email from someone accusing FBR of only caring about money, since the adoption fee is so high (in this case it was $400.00)

Shelters often have a veterinarian on staff, that plus city funding, grants, donations etc allows them to be able to reduce the price of their adoption fees. Both local shelters and FBR spay and neuter, vaccinate for DHPP, Bordetella and Rabies, do full medical exams, worming and microchip. FBR also does dental cleaning if its warranted as well as any other medical care (x-rays, blood work etc) FBR pay for a dogs medical care, just like you or I would going to a local veterinarian. Yes, many vets give a discount (Thank you Kulshan Vet, Maplewood Vet and Northshore Vet) but its usually between 10 and 15%, very much appreciated YES! But the total bill is still very high. Adoption fees NEVER cover all the cost of a rescue dog. At Furbaby Rescue we have had dogs whose medical care end up in the thousands… and we simply have to try to fund raise or cover the costs ourselves. FBR receives no city funding or grants. 100% of our monies comes form adoptions and donations. I have never known a year volunteering for FBR in which their out of pocket costs have ever been less than $15,000.00.

When thinking of adopting we hope you look at all shelters and rescue groups when choosing your next family member. Understanding adoption fees helps all two and four legged participants!

Check out Miss Sissy. A beautiful, 10yr old Long Haired Chihuahua looking for her forever home. Her medical care (spay, vaccines, microchip, dental tooth extractions, blood work, knee x-rays) have far exceeded $600.00 but her adoption fee is $200.00 due to her age. If you want to help with a donation to Furbaby Rescue, please contact Tails-A-Wagging.

How to Take Your Dog Along on a Vacation

2011-01-31T15:44:00.000-08:00

How to Take Your Dog Along on a Vacation

They’re beloved members of your family, so it’s only natural that you feel bereft when you’re forced to leave your pet behind when you go on a vacation. However, it’s not impossible to take your dog along on a holiday, if you plan ahead and make adequate preparations. Pets that are well-behaved, well-trained and which obey you without acting up are ideal for taking along on a vacation, so before you start planning a trip with your dog in tow, ensure that he/she will not be a nuisance to you or others around you.

· Choose your location carefully; there are many vacation spots that are dog-friendly where people don’t mind if you bring your pet along.

· Choose your mode of travel with your dog’s attitude and temperament in mind; some dogs are amenable to travelling in the hold of an airplane in a pet crate while others

· Trips that involve nature are best suited for dogs – camping, swimming and woodland holidays bring out the best in them and allow them to enjoy the outdoors with you and your family.

· There are many places that don’t allow dogs inside; so even if your hotel allows you to keep your dog in your room, the museum, theme park and other similar places you visit will not let you take your dog inside. So if your holiday involves many such activities, it’s best to leave your dog behind at home.

· In general, vacations taken in places that are not filled with people and which are relatively less crowded are more suitable to take your dog along.

· Beaches may seem like fun places for dogs, but if they’re crowded, your pet could be stepping on too many toes, literally and figuratively.

· Be prepared to clean up after your dog when you’re outdoors and nature calls; don’t forget to pack doggy bags along with their dish, food and toys so you leave the place clean for other tourists.

· And most important of all, don’t drag along a dog that’s unwilling to change its routine or which would be miserable cooped up in a car or crate for long periods of time. If your dog is older, it would be better to leave them in the care of a friend or a kennel. Younger dogs that are well trained are best suited to go on vacation with you and your family.

By-line:
This guest post is contributed by Tina Marconi, she writes on the topic of online vet tech . She welcomes your comments at her email id: tinamarconi85[@]gmail[.]com.

Nature vs Nurture

2011-01-13T14:01:00.000-08:00

I just finished a phone conversation with a woman whose dog has bit others (children and other dogs) numerous times. All bites have all caused injury needed medical attention. The dog is 3 years of age and she never did any kind of professional training- the dog simply lived in the family. No conscience decision to make a wonderfully social dog, no work on bite inhibition... She was seeking advise on dealing with the biting issue... oh and by the way the dog is used for breeding and the dog is pregnant yet again.

Lets talk about breeding a dog. The ONLY purpose to breed a dog is to better the breed. Its not to make money, its not so the kids can experience life and its not because your dog is so cute you can't imagine her not having puppies.

When breeding a dog one should prove not only that the dog is up to the breed standard but the dog must have an excellent temperament, as up to 60% of her offspring will share her temperament. We know we have the ability to alter a dogs behavior based on counter conditioning process, but the dogs personality is cannot be ignored.

If you have chosen to purchase a dog, what can you do?
First: why do you want to purchase a dog? Make sure the reasons are worth it. Most peoples reason is because they want more of a guarantee as to the type of dog they are getting. Yet these are the same people who never met the parents of the puppy in the first place!

MEET THE PARENTS: do not fall for some excuse that the male was shipped in for breeding or the female is just not around.... we have heard it all. No parents to meet? do not bother meeting the pups. You are looking for a family member here... not a show dog. Tempermant is everything

Understand Purposefully Bred does not mean PURE bred. It saddens me when someone purchases a mixed breed dog, while thousands of mix breed and pure bred dogs are euthanized everyday in our shelters. Designer dogs are mixed breed dogs. Some people think that because the designer dog is actually mixed from two other breeds, the dog will be healthier. NOT TRUE, its still a forced breeding and with a forced breeding comes a higher risk for health issues.

Quality Breeders DO NOT Advertise. See an ad in the paper or craigslist? Its usually a front for a back yard breeder to a puppy mill. Even if that is not the case, and the person you are getting the dog from only breeds her dogs once in a while, why are you contributing to the over population of dogs but purchasing a puppy from someone who is trying to make money off the lives of animals. There are rescue groups dedicated to pure bred dogs and 26% of all the dogs in a shelter right now, are pure bred.

Do NOT buy a dog from a pet store. These dogs are always supplied by a puppy mill. A quality breeder knows where her puppy is going. She is not leaving it up to a store clerk to make sure the home is a good choice.

Never allow a puppy to be shipped. Is your breeder half way across the county? And they are happy to ship the pup to you? RUN! A quality breeder will want to meet you and your family. If they are willing to ship a pup off to who knows where, what else did they not care about.

If you are paying money for a dog, you better gets your money's worth. If by the time you take you pup home, they are not 100% crate trained, potty trianed, know sit, down and come... then you are setting yourself up for trouble. A breeder- if they are there to better the dog, will of done all that work before you even take the pup home.

I love pure bred dogs, I love mixed breed dogs. I love dogs. I just want your dog to be the best for you and your family. Great dogs do not happen by accident... its starts before they are even born.

Holiday Gifts to Pet Lovers on your list

2010-12-14T14:45:00.000-08:00

Do you have a pet lover on your holiday list this year? Here are a few ideas for holiday gifts.

Pet Themed Book:
My dog Tulip, by J.R Ackerly. Classic story of universal devotion
Oogy, The dog only a family could love, by Larry Levin. An inspiring story of a dog survivor.
Huck, The remarkable true story of how one lost puppy taught a family- and a whole town- about hope and happy endings, By Janet Elder

Personalized Pet Postage Stamps: Create custom USPS postage with a photo of your friends pet. www.zazzle.com

Animal Charities of America Gift Certificate:
Let the recipient choose from nearly 70 animal organization to donate to.

LED lighted leash and collar set. Available from Hardware Sales

Gift Certificate for dog walking or pet care

Happy HOWLidays

Dogs coming for a Visit over the holiday

2010-12-10T08:02:00.000-08:00

Hey Tails,
Family is coming over to visit this holiday and bringing their new dog. You know Bonkers is great with other dogs, but can get so crazy when they come to the house! What to do to make it go as smooth as possible?

Karen and Bonkers, Ferndale

Hey Karen, Thanks for your question. Here are a few tips to make your holiday a good one! First, make sure the other dog coming a a happy, healthy social dog. If that dog has issues, suggest they talk to a reward based trainer before they visit to set that dog up to succeed too. Assuming they incoming dog is acceptable, we suggest the dogs meet on neutral ground. Ideally somewhere close, a school yard, a tennis court (good fenced option) Have dogs on leash and do a few quick walk by greetings. Starting with at least 15 feet apart. Make sure you have high value treats to reward your dog for relaxed body posture. If he is too agitated, simply turn and walk away. Re approach when he is relaxed. Do this several times. When he is relaxed begin to walk the younger of the two dogs, behind the other dog and slowly decrease the distance as you walk. When the dogs are within 3 feet of each other AND both relaxed body language, take them back to the play area for some off leash romping. Remember to PRAISE them both for good body signals. After a few minutes, leash them back up and walk home together. Having the dogs walk back to the house will ease the entry. Having a new dog walk into the home to greet your dog is a sure fire way to create anxiety for both dogs. Set them up to succeed and you will have a good holiday too! Call us if you have any questions.

American Disabilities Act Tightening the Leash!

2010-10-07T14:04:00.000-07:00

We get the call, about 3 times a month... " where can I get one of those vests so my dog can be my service dog"

Sadly there are local dog trainers that abuse the 1990 ADA by assisting dog owners who abuse the system set for for properly trained service dogs- telling them they can train their own dog to be a service dog in a matter of 2 months or even asking them to simply get a vest and put it on their dog.

A "service dog" is individually trained to perform tasks that mitigate the disability of his owner. Training typically takes 18 to 24 months and is not suited for all dogs. Because of this advanced training, a service dog is considered medical equipment and is permitted to accompany a disabled owner to public places where dogs are not usually permitted.

Animals whose sole function is to provide emotional support, comfort, therapy, companionship, therapeutic benefits or promote emotional well being are NOT service animals. This refers to the dog owner who simply feels calmer, happier, less stressed and so on with his/her pet dog present and is therefore calling is an emotional support dog. All of us who love dogs would have a "service dog" if this was the standard.

For a dog to be an "emotional support or psychiatric dog" in the service sense, the dog needs to undergo the SAME type of training as above as well as the owner must have a written prescription for a doctor stating that the dog is necessary.

Although one cannot ask a disabled person what their disability is, you can ask them what the dog was trained to do specifically for them (open doors, pick up items on the floor, alert to phone ringing etc). They also need to be able to show that the dog can perform that task on cue.

The U.S.Department of Justice is cracking down and are enforcing the Amendments Act to the ADA. No longer can people throw a vest on their dog and take advantage of the system set up to help individuals with true disabilities

If you are in need of a service dog, contact the ONLY trained individual in Whatcom County to assist you: Denise Costanten of Brigadoon Youth and Service Dogs: 733-5388

Dogs vs Cats

2010-07-06T14:39:00.000-07:00

A TAW client asked me today if we could help her dog get used to cats. Her dog chases all neighborhood felines.

You see, we foster kittens here at TAW and she was hoping by exposing her dog to the kittens it would help her dog not be such a brat to neighborhood cats. Good idea... but not much of a chance.

Yes, we can help dogs get more used to the kittens here and in turn it can help dogs do better with house cats, but when we are taking about cats in the neighborhood we are now talking about prey drive.

Prey drive is the desire for a dog to chase and hunt. It is in all dogs, to some degree, more in some- less in other breeds. Terriers have a high prey drive, as they were bred to hunt and kill small vermin. What we have to understand is the dog does not have to catch the prey in order to be rewarded. The chase its self can be all it takes. Your dog does not need to have ever caught a squirrel to know its fun to chase them...

Dogs with a high prey drive can, in my opinion, never be taught to not WANT to chase... but we can put their focus on something else. Agility, Frisbee, Tracking ECT.

Remember, we cannot pick and choose the traits we love about our breeds. The same tenacity a terrier has to bark and chase is the same thing you love when it comes to theri attitude about loyalty to you.

Check us out on FACEBOOK

2010-06-22T13:30:00.000-07:00

Just a quick note to ask you to friend us on facebook. We post daily photos and videos of the dogs at day care, in classes and all things TAILS!

Allie, needs her forever home

2010-05-21T09:51:00.001-07:00

Hi everyone. My name is Allie, I am a 2 yr old Australian Shepherd/Golden Retriever Mix. I have had a pretty tumultuous life and as a result I have some habits that I need a lot of work on, but I appreciate you reading about me and considering that we might be a good match for each other

I have been in 5 different homes in the past year. I was originally a homeless dog, living on the streets and brought in to the shelter. I got adopted but returned after a few months. Back to the shelter I went, then on to a foster home. Logistics had me have to go to another foster home... so I am sure you can see, I don't have a real sense of where to call home. I have been showing reactive behavior to other dogs, as a result- especially other females. Although this is not an acceptable behavior, its all too common with shelter dogs with my experiences. You see, dogs like me react (bark, lunge, act a bit scary) when we feel the people in our lives don't have our "back" being in so many homes over the past year, I never know if I am coming or going and I have learned that this behavior works for me...

The foster home I was in before, worked really hard with me and I was getting so good on my behavior that it was close to resolved, but when I had to go into another foster home, it all started up again... and here I am. I am in training classes, and doing well in the class and adore my foster home ( I have a foster brother who I LOVE!)

I am very loving when I know you will treat me right. Treats help me realize that a lot quicker!

Humans who know me describe me as a loving, loyal, charismatic, beautiful dog. I am crate trained, potty trained and walks well on my leash (I use a gentle leader due to my reactive tendency) I am not destructive in the house, and settle well. I am VERY active and love to run and play. I love Stuffed Kong’s, Plushy toys, running on trails and wrestling with dorky boy dogs. I am quiet, but a good alert dog and I need lots of exercise and stimulation. I know my basic commands and enjoy clicker training. I have spent some time with cats and showed very little interest in them.

My adoption requirements are as follows:

Physically active but overall, calm home
No young children
Equally sized male dog playmate is welcome (But I can be an only dog)
Experienced dog home
Someone willing to continue work on my reactive tendencies

To learn more about Allie, conact www.whatcomhumane.org

Puppy and classes

2010-04-27T10:06:00.000-07:00

Hi Tails,
I'm confused... my vet says my pup can't be around other dogs and puppies until she is fully vaccinated, which is when she is about 16 weeks old. But you have classes starting at 9 weeks of age. What gives?

Vicky and Scooter-Pie, Bellingham

Dear Vicky and Scooter-Pie,
First let me say your veterinarian is absolutely, 100% correct. You cannot subject your puppy to other pups and dogs in which you do not know their health history, it’s just not safe! Too many canine diseases can live outside the body and your pup can be exposed to them simply by going for a walk in which a sick dog walked there the week before... However... your question needs more of an explanation.

Puppies are constantly going thru developmental stages; their brains are capable or learning and absorbing information at certain times that they cannot learn later in life. So we are faced with a dilemma. How do we socialize a puppy when that puppy can't be around other pups? The answer lies in socialization classes.
Our puppy pre school and kindergarten classes are open to all pups over 9 weeks of age. Those pups have to have been seen by a veterinarian and have started on their vaccines (DHPP and Bordetella). Its true you cannot take your pup on a walk or to the park, or anywhere that a dog you don't know their health history could of been before you. But our classes are healthy pups, in which we know their health history. We are faced with two risks:

1) risk of disease. Certainly these pups in classes are not finished with their vaccines so there is still a level of risk of exposure to other pups.

2) Risk of lack of socialization. This risk, in our opinion, is a far greater one.

Waiting until your pup is completely finished with vaccines until they begin to learn socialization is a huge missed opportunity. At the very least plan on a TON of catch up on your part. And know that some pups never fully recover the missed opportunities for socialization. I have been teaching classes for over 22 years and not once have we ever had an issue of disease contamination in one of our puppy classes. But I cannot count the number of calls we get about a 6 months old under socialized pup who is having major issues with not only socialization, but manners and bite inhibition.

So, in short... get puppy into an off leash socialization class- with a training center recommended by your vet, one who knows the health risks, one who is trained properly in animal husbandry and has a safe clean facility in which only vaccinated pups can come! You need to trust the training center that they are making sure everyone is up to date on vaccines, and not simply taking people word for it. Make sure the training center is clean and sanitized after classes.

Drop in on those classes, see how the class is run. Trust your gut!

Remember what we alwasy say: "Good Puppies don't happen by accident"

Circus Animals. Tortured to Entertain You

2010-04-19T11:14:00.000-07:00

Yes, even in a city as progressive as Bellingham an animal circus still came to town. The Shrine Circus was at SportsPlex Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We were there all 3 days protesting them. We stood on the sidewalk and peacefully held our signs depicting how animals are tortured in a circus. Most people hung there head as they passed by, holding their child's hand. Some asked questions, some took literature, some walked in saw the animals in chains and turned away and left. A tiger sat in the parking lot, drugged, rubbing its head along the bars of the metal cage.

Please take a moment to write a letter to our Mayor Dan Pike about how we encourage and support animal free circus in Bellingham.

Doggie Socials easter party

2010-03-30T15:31:00.000-07:00

Hope you can join us for our annual small dog easter party on Sunday April 4th from 10am to 12 noon

Enjoy our regular Doggie Social Event, easter egg hunt and special bunny cookies!

Normal requirements and fees apply. For more information, check us out at www.tails-a-wagging.com

Fabulous Fidos

2010-03-05T11:25:00.000-08:00

I can't wait to tell you about a new class we are offering FABULOUS FIDOS!

This class is an intermediate level class that focuses on different aspects of the relationship between guardian and the companion dog. In it we build on basic obedience skills, adding more advanced skills such as attention, team work focused on heeling and Rally Obedience type exercises, impulse control exercises including recall past difficult distractions and stay with multiple distractions, skills building trust and relationship such as games, tricks and agility skills and some basic off leash distance work incorporating trust, relationship, attention, obedience and play.

This is also a great class for mildly reactive dogs, with permission from instructor.

Hope to see you there!

Canine Papilloma Virus

2010-02-26T13:53:00.000-08:00

When ever dogs play with each other (dog parks, day care, play dates ect) there is always the risk of transmission of disease. Just like kids playing at school, they can pass things like colds and flu... With dogs we concern ourselves with other things.

Primarily:

Internal Parasites (worms)

External Parasites (fleas)

Viruses

Here at Tails-A-Wagging we counter balance the risk of disease by having an extreme cleaning regimen, as well as a physical environment that limits the ability to spread disease (rubber floor/walls) Everything the dogs come in contact with is cleaned every day. The floors, the playroom walls, the yard, toys, toothbrushes, beds ect. We also require all dogs who attend day care to be current on DHPP, Bordetella and Rabies, and show proof of a negative fecal test every 6 months.

We will spend some time over the next month talking about certain canine disease and concerns, but for today lets talk about CPV.

Canine Papilloma Virus is a viral wart that can be transmitted from one dog to another with normal play.

Certain viruses are able to cause the growth of small round skin tumors commonly referred to as warts. It is important to realize that viral warts are a specific condition and that a growth on the dog’s skin may or may not represent a viral wart.
Human warts are round, somewhat flat, and relatively smooth. Viral warts in dogs tend to possess frond-like structures creating more of a sea anemone or cauliflower-like appearance, though they can be smooth as well. The classical canine viral wart patient is a young dog with warts in or around the mouth or eyes. In such cases where warts have a classic appearance in a classic patient, diagnosis may be obvious but in older patients with warts in locations other than the face, other types of growths become more likely. Because growths can appear harmless but behave malignantly, removal and biopsy are often recommended.

Viral papillomas are round but often have a rough, almost jagged surface reminiscent of a sea anemone or a cauliflower. They occur usually on the lips and muzzle of a young dog (usually less than 2 years of age). Less commonly, papillomas can occur on the eyelids and even the surface of the eye or between the toes. Usually they occur in groups rather than as solitary growths.

HOW IS THIS VIRUS TRANSMITTED?
The infection is transmitted via direct contact with the papillomas on an infected dog or with the virus in the pet’s environment. The incubation period is 2-3 months. This virus can only be spread among dogs. It is not contagious to other pets or to humans. To become infected, the dog generally needs an immature immune system, thus this infection is primarily one of young dogs and puppies. Beyond this, transmission details are sketchy. It is not known whether the infected dog must actually show visible lesions to be contagious, nor how long after regression of lesions contagion is still of concern.

ARE VIRAL PAPILLOMAS DANGEROUS?
Not really. They should go away on their own as the dog’s immune system matures and generates a response against the papillomavirus. There have been two cases published where viral papillomas progressed to malignancy but this is extremely rare and by no means the usual course of the infection. Typically, it takes 1-5 months for papillomas to regress with oral growths tending to regress sooner than those around the eyes.

TREATMENT
In most cases, treatment is unnecessary; one simply allows the papillomas to go away on their own. Tumors can be surgically removed or frozen off cryogenically. Sometimes crushing several growths seems to stimulate the host’s immune system to assist in the tumor regression process. Some veterinarians have also showed using the antibiotic Azithromycin effective.
Boosting your dogs’ immune system is also the best chance of the warts going away. Antioxidant supplements and added Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids are a good addition to your dogs diet.

Since the papillomas is considered contagious to other dogs, if we find a lesion we suspect might be canine papilloma virus your dog will be removed from the play group and sent home. Your veterinarian needs to determine if it is indeed CPV. If you dog is diagnosed with CPV you cannot bring your dog to day care, and you need to let us know to cancel your dogs scheduled days. Your dog needs to be lesion free for 10 days in order to return to day care.

New Dog Toys.. WE LOVE

2010-02-15T13:48:00.001-08:00

I have to tell you about my new favorite dog toys. ok, not only MY favorite, but my dogs favorite. We love the Dog Magic, the dog Spinny and the Dog Tornado.

Basically they are dog puzzles. As many of your know, all of my dogs eat form some kind of puzzle toy at every meal. Usually its a kong, but we also use, Talk to me Treat balls, Bob's A lot and Orbee balls. THEN... I found these! So easy to use, easy to clean and keeps my dogs thinking.

It was very interesting the first time I gave them the puzzle. Each dog tackled the problem differently. Pudge is all about muscle... getting to the food with brute force. Percy, systematically took his time and bit by bit he figured it out. Meg, got mad at it and barked, but eventually took her time and got thru it. Morocco... he ate a bit then kept coming to find me to assist him. What a baby... Sorry, Morocco. Its all for you. No cheating. It took him the longest.

I like using these to give my dogs options for activities. When our dogs have their own jobs, I can leave them and they look at me and say "see ya, I have my work to do" and they have no anxiety about me leaving.

Check them out... all are at PetStop in Sehome Village 738-3663

Does your Dog Have A Great Life?

2010-01-05T11:26:00.000-08:00

What makes a dog happy and content? How do you know your dog LOVES his life?

Best way to know is to understand that dogs, as social-thinking animals, need to be kept active with both mind and body. They need stimulation of new situations, adventures, social interactions and activities.

Here is an example of a dogs perfect day:

Wake Up

Have Breakfast, enjoy scavenging his entire meal from a few activity feeders that dispense food a bit at a time. A fun tip is to hide these in the house! Meal time is no longer 30 seconds of scarfing his food, now its 30 to 60 minutes of pure bliss! Using his natural scavenging instincts.

Go for a walk with the family. New Routes are particularly enjoyable. Practice sits an downs at each stop.

Play with food stuffed toys whiles family is away during the day. Try a "bucket" filled with a few stuffed Kong's, a bully stick layered with several plush toys. This is a fun game in of itself... going thru all the items in the bucket (bucket is a new, clean container that has never been used for cleaning products)

Pre arranged play date, afternoon of doggie day care or trip to an acceptable dog park for some much needed social time. Dog need friends too! Someone they can have predictable interactions with. Dog parks can be tricky- as you never know who is going to be there (good or bad) so plan ahead, let other well manners pooch parents know when and where to meet up.

Enjoy another walk or maybe some back yard play time with the family. Spending at least 15 minutes practicing training or learning some new tricks.

Dinner: Enjoy scavenging meal from a different activity feeder.

Off to bed in a big, soft bed, especially for him.

Does that seem like your dogs typical day? It should be... bored dogs are frustrated dogs and we know that energy HAS TO come out some how. Are you planning how that energy is released thru planned activities or seeing the negative side effects with reactive barking, destruction of house items, digging and all around bad manners.

Take some time to think about what your dog wants the most. Fun ways to keep his mind and body entertained

Do our Dogs Need to Wear Coats?

2009-12-07T10:17:00.000-08:00

We get this questions a lot... dogs have their own coats right? So why on earth do they need to wear a top coat?

The answer lies with you...Our dogs are indoor dogs. They sleep in our beds, sun bath on the kitchen floor and lay by the fire. Since we have acclimated our dogs to the indoor thermostat its fair to say they have lost some of their adaptability to the elements. By the time you need a hat and gloves its time for Fido to get a coat.

Now, what type of coat? Yes, my dogs are true fashion-istas but were are taking about practicality here, not fashion. The coat needs to be easy to get on and off, no leg holes please. Its needs to cover their chore/chest. It needs to fit snugly and be secured with clips or Velcro. The outer shell should be water proof with a fleece lining for comfort. It should be machine washable and have a bit of reflective aspect to it too.

Be aware there are boy coats and girl coats, for anatomical reasons... no one wants Buddy to put on a girl coat only to wee on the coat when he goes outside!

Where do you get a dog coat? Best is at a local store. Take your dog in with you, try it on. PetStop in Sehome Village and Bow Wow and Woofs in Blaine are my favorite. Good selection of top quality coats. Your dogs coat should last a lifetime, so expect to pay $40 to $80 for it, depending on their size. For jumbo dogs check out NeoDogWare.com a local company who caters to giant breeds.

So... remember when you find yourself reaching for a bit more than your own coat, Fido has needs too.

Role Reversal in Puppies, Appropriate Play

2009-11-23T12:35:00.000-08:00

The most common behavioral questions we get, in regards to puppies, is about proper socialization. Why do some puppies grow up to love all dogs for thier whole life and some only until they reach around 9 to 10 months then far too often become a jerk to other dogs?

The answer lies in role reversal.

Puppies learn role reversal as soon as they begin to play, at about 2 to 3 weeks of age. They learn it with their brothers and sisters in their litter. They continue to learn it until well into their 7th to 8th month of adolescence. Role Reversal is the act of a puppy learning who they are in this big world. They learn sometimes they can be the boss of the other pups and sometimes the other pups are the boss of them. Sometimes pup #1 sits on pup#2 head and sometime its the other way around! You see, puppies do not know who they are yet, they do not know their role in the pack. They rely on other puppies to tell them. They try different roles out. With back and forth play they learn how to let the other dog gain the upper hand and allow themselves to be put in their place as well as learn what its like to be the more assertive one. This builds their confidence and they become very predictable dogs.
Without role reversal your pup never learns how to give and take when it comes to play.

Far too common, we get the call " Well, no, my puppy did not play with other puppies his own age but we did take him to the dog park everyday and he played with tons of dogs"

The problem with this is that the pup never earned role reversal. Adult dogs already know who they are. Strong/assertive? Calm/Submissive? A bully? A cheerleader? A follower? A leader? and the pup was never allowed to find out who he was... since everyone else only told him who he was not!

When puppies primarily play with adult dogs who are secure in who they are, then the pup never gets the chance to try on "different hats" their hat is already chose for them by the adult dogs. This makes for a VERY low confident dog. And at 9 to 10 months that shows its ugly head as a bully. The call is all too common. "we used to go to the dog park all the time, but now he gets into scuffles with the other dogs. He is great with some dogs, but we never know when he will go off on another dog"

What to do?
If you have a pup less than 20 weeks of age, its an easy fix. Time consuming? yes... but simple. Your pup should be playing with only other pups ages 9 week to 6 months. At least 80% of the dogs in his life should be puppies. No exceptions. don't bother to tell me you don't know any other puppies, FIND THEM. Your pup is already developmentally behind, you need to find at least 5 new pups a week. Size means nothing, its all about age.
Trade numbers in your puppy kindergarten class, send an email to all your friends asking if they know anyone with a puppy.... this is your dogs life we are talking about. You need to take initiative.
*remember your pup CANNOT be exposed to other pups in which you don't know their health history. Since your pup is not fully vaccinated you need to ask about the other pups health history. Get proof they are as current as they can be on vaccines.

Is your dog older than 6 months but less than 10 months? Its gets more tricky now. Now you need to find pups ages 5 months to 8 months. A harder group to find, but still very doable. STOP going to the dog park where its any ones guess who will be showing up. Make sure the pups you set up play dates with are social dogs already going to obedience school in a reward based class. You do not want to make things worse by your dog learning bad behaviors from someone else.

Is your dog older than 10months? Best thing now is to realize your dogs personality is set, we have to respect who they are and a -happy go lucky to everyone kind of dog- is not it... Find dogs your dogs play really well with, set up play dates with those dogs. Trade dog care back and forth with those dogs. Have play dates at your house or theirs.
Stop putting your dog in a situations where they may show inappropriate behavior. Get into a reward based class to continue learning good manners. Your dog is still capable of learning how to behave, but not capable of changing their personality.

Know its all about prevention. You have the ability to make your dog a fabulous dog. But remember... good dogs do not happen by accident!

Winter Welcomes New Day Care Dogs

2009-11-17T11:43:00.000-08:00

The chill is in the air... but for these pups who have been on our waiting list, we offer a warm welcome! We welcome some new canine buddies this Fall/winter, all of these dogs have successfully passed their temperament evaluation and we hope to see them often

Oliver W. A happy-go-lucky schnauzer
Otis J. Welcome back Buddy! We missed ya
Kayden H. Brace yourself...a whole lotta dog here
Monk R. Sweet and silly shepherd
Scooter E. Lovable and social Princess
Bella L. Miss Wiggle Doodle herself
Jane Fisher Bouncy does not begin to describe this Havanese
Tasha R Even for an aussie she has a lot of energy
Stella L So lovable and so smart
Ginger C Adorable beagle with energy to boot
Remy C an awesome Min Pin and good kisser
Daisy L Little Miss Chi finally was big enough
Bailey R Mr Fluffer Nutter himself
Chloe H Sweet Bichon who loves her brother
Summie A Fast and Friendly, this lab is great
Samson G A great new puppy who is all about the fun
Little Chef A Pom-Chi who can't wait to show us what he is all about

We can't wait to show them all why TAW is the best!

Whatcom Humane Soceity Gala, Best Year Ever!

2009-10-26T09:32:00.000-07:00

We had a spectacular time at the WHS Gala on Saturday. It was the most fun, best auction items, great food that there has ever been! Everyone raised over $105K for the animals. So happy to see the WHS staff there, and the organization of the event was impeccable. Kudos WHS for putting on a spectacular event. Lots of people wore costumes, which we love, of course.

Jason and I won some fabulous items in the silent and live auction. Lost horribly to Kim Barron (who won a painting fair and square)

Glad to see the community stepped up and supported WHS, with their leader Laura Clark, there is nothing they can't do!

Notorious Chunky B

2009-10-06T13:11:00.000-07:00

As many of you know, Jason and I volunteer and foster dogs for Furbaby Rescue. FBR is a small rescue dedicated to rescuing, fostering and placing small breed dogs. Jason and I tend to care for the Chihuahua's that come into the organization. We have 4 Chi and I adore the breed overall. Last week we got a call from Laura Clark, she is the executive director for the Whatcom Humane Society. A morbidly obese Chihuahua came into the shelter, surrendered by his owner. Now, we are not talking chubby here.... we all agree he should weigh 5 to 6 lbs, but he weighs 12 lbs. He needs to loose more than half his body weight. He would be over 450 lbs if he were a man... He is so fat he has a triple chin. His liver enzymes were so high the shelter could not justify putting him up for adoption, as he would need extreme care to not only get the weight off but to take care of all his medical needs. His teeth were abscessed, and he had several large fistulas (oral abscesses leading up to his sinus') He had so much infection in his sinus that he could not pass air thru his nose. His tongue had blue tinge to it, due to the perpetual lack of oxygen. The shelter staff clearly adored this dog, they are such wonderful people but are limited in their resources and do the best they can. They called FBR, and we took him in.

Even though he must of felt horrible, he settled right into my clan. He happily slept in his crate, he used our doggie door after watching Percy use it. Never an accident in the house. He accepts my dogs and happily meets new people. He is a true joy.

He has now had 9 teeth pulled, his oral abscesses are healing and he is beginning to be able to breathe thru his nose again. He has lost a full pound. Our daily walks take us to Cornwall Park, my dogs leading the way, with Chunky B close behind. We bring a special doggie stroller for when he is too tired to walk back.

As I write this, he sits on my lap... grunting and snoring so loudly I have to set him down and go to the other room to answer the phone.

In a few weeks his mouth and sinus' will be healed, in a few months he will be a normal weight.

Neglect put this wonderful dog close to deaths door. Had WHS not seen his potential, seen thru the fat, the infection, the high risk medical issues or had he ended up at another shelter that was not full of the caring and loving people like those fill the Whatcom Humane Society, he may not be here today.

Thank you WHS. Thank you for all that you do. Knowing that all animals deserve people like you, and we are a far better community by having you in it.

Chunky B send his love... and grunts

Dog Days of Summer Festival 2009

2009-09-08T15:47:00.000-07:00

If anyone made it thru the rain and wind to get to the Dogs Days of Summer Festival to benefit the Whatcom Humane Society this last Sunday... I commend you. We were there, wet, cold and my hair tied in knots from the wind. The Chihuahua's were moderately content, they had their sweaters, and big, fenced, outdoor area to run around in. Barking all day, as good Chihuahua's do!

We typically give away over 300 toys and prizes, but less than 100 found their way into happy puppy mouths, due to the low turnout. The weather was not on our side.

We had to pack it in early due to the wind, as tents were breaking and flying away. After a tent ended up in the lake and many lifted up off the ground, alas it was time to head home.

We did not get to show off at our Doggie Circus or Rally O show, but we hope to be able to next year.

Biggest disappointment was the lost revenue for the Whatcom Humane Society. Although not a big money maker, more of a community event, they still can make enough to keep the shelter animals happy if even for a short while.

I encourage you to send an extra monetary gift their way this month. On behalf of the Dogs Days of Summer...Toto needs it.

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO NOT COME WHEN CALLED

2009-08-21T15:18:00.000-07:00

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO NOT COME WHEN CALLED

Call your dog to you, then give him a bath. Or clip his nails, your choice; just be sure to pick the one he really, really hates.

Take your dog someplace he loves to go, like the park, or to play with a friend’s dog. Wait until he’s really having fun, then call him to you. Immediately load him in the car and drive him home.

This one works especially well for small dogs: Call your dog to you, then swoop down on him with both arms, making sure to look as frightening as possible as you pick him up. Now, that might not stop him from coming to you altogether, but it pretty much guarantees that he’ll stop just out of arm’s reach.

Call your dog, then immediately put him away somewhere (crate, behind a gate) and leave, preferably for a full day. A great choice for dogs who hate to be left alone.

Call your dog and tell him it's time for his walk - then take a phone call. Call him back again, then forget your keys, call him back when you've found them... to put on your shoes...

If your dog somehow slips out the front door or maybe through your back gate, be sure to yell at him when he comes back home or when you catch him.

Call your dog to come and do nothing. No pet, no praise… nothing

Bizzy Pee'd right in front of me!

2009-08-21T13:58:00.000-07:00

Hey Angi,
HELP! Bizzy (my female Schipperke) just pee'd right in front of me... not sure what to do. Juno, my other female Schipperke and Jolly, my male Chihuahua were on the floor. Juno was trying to get Jolly to play, but of course he wanted nothing to do with her and was getting pretty vocal about it, telling her to back off. Then all of a sudden Bizzy comes over and pee's right in front of us all! I jumped up and told her NO, and took her outside. She JUST had a medical work up last week including a urinalysis, so I know its not an infection. What the heck to do?

Deb, Juno, Bizzy and Jolly

Oh Deb... I told you to come to my Body Language Seminar last month!
What I suspect was going on was a calming signal, from Bizzzy directed towards Juno and Jolly. Juno was bugging Jolly so Bizzy (as the more assertive female in the group) offered a overt calming signal (urinating in their presence) to settle and calm the two of them. Remember dogs offer calming signals to not only calm themselves but to calm the others around them. By urinating she appeased the situation of Juno getting in Jolly's face. Your response of telling her NO, did not help the situation, but don't beat yourself up about it... it was a typical response. But do know that black dogs on average use more overt calming signals than other dogs. Black dogs realize certain body signals cannot be seen as easily by other dogs (by trial and error), so they use very obvious ones, more than other dogs.
Best thing to do next time is to anticipate a reaction from Bizzy if the other dogs were getting out of hand. Offer a calming signal yourself first, like body block and head turn to appease the situation before distracting the dogs to move onto other things. Bizzy will see you have taken care of the situation and will see no need for it to escalate making her need to address it.

Oh, and I am saving you a spot when we do the seminar again on 9/25!

New Dog Show on Animal Planet

2009-08-20T09:34:00.000-07:00

Like many of you, I enjoy Animal Planet. This Discovery Channel Network has done some amazing work to help educate us all on animals.
Even though have been training dogs for over 20 years, I still love watching dog training shows. Any good trainer will tell you there are a ba-zillion ways to train a dog and we are all (hopefully) open to new ideas and enjoy trying new techniques. Like other dog trainers, I like to tivo the dog training shows so when first understanding the behavioral problem I can pause it to announce (to my dogs, watching with me) what I would do if I was training that dog... In shows like Its Me or The Dog, I love how similar we are, in our thoughts and methods.

I stumbled upon a new dog show called In the Dog House... just few minutes of this show and I was appalled! The trainer (I never caught his name) set dog training back about 40 years! Using all old school methods of intimidation and fear. Choke chains, pinch collars, alpha rolls... you name it, this punk was gonna show these dogs who was boss! Just like Cesar Millan... he had it all wrong.
I have said it before... if dog training was like pizza these guys are missing about 5 slices. Just not seeing the whole picture.
YES you must be a leader to your dog. YES you need to be calm and structured for your dog.
YES you need show you dog what behaviors are not acceptable... however you don't get there by using fear and intimidation!
I can MAKE a dog do anything I want... but what does that do for my relationship with that dog? I want the dog to do what I want him to do out of respect for the pack and trust in me! You cannot trust what you fear.
These old school trainers think being a leader or alpha to the dogs means they must dominate them, be assertive and hold a level of fear to the dog. If they truly understood pack behavior they would understand that the "in your face" running around and push everyone around dog is the middle of the road adolescent dog, NOT the alpha... she is sitting off to the side, overseeing. She is the keeper of the stuff, the maker of the rules. She uses her body to block and prevent rather than react to a situation. She rewards for the right behavior and redirects the wrong behavior. Old school training methods simply teach dogs that people are something to be feared and not something to be trusted. But don't get me wrong, no one every said these methods don't work, they do... but we now know AT WHAT COST!
These old school dog trainers are still using what was taught years and years ago. This is how any one who has been training dogs for over 10 years was taught. Yes, when I went to school to train dogs I too learned all the pop and jerk methods. I thought that was the way it was. Over 15 years ago, I opened my eyes to how it should be. To this day...I have NEVER met a trainer who used to teach with old school corrective training that now teaches with reward based dog training that has ever gone back. We see how much more relaxed the dogs are, how more open they are to learning. It improves the relationship with our dogs and makes us more reliable and predictable for our dogs. It teaches them in this crazy world, with lots of scary things we are the one they can trust above all others. It creates a bond that can't be broken.

So join me, in writing an email to Animal Planet, tell them to pull the show In the Dog House. Our dog deserve better.

2009-08-10T12:25:00.000-07:00

Dear Tails,
Our new puppy is a blast, thanks for getting him into the Kindergarten Class... but we had a question. On our walks he was wanting to eat everything he could find! In class we are learning how to walk well on a leash so that is going fine now, but it made us wonder "what plants are bad for him to eat"? Any we should be real wary of?

Thanks
Barb and Rocket

Barb and Rocket,
Thanks for your post. Yes... in general there are lots of pants that are toxic to animals, so its best to keep Rocket from picking up anything by teaching him to heel. I am glad his walking politely on a leash is gong well, but here is a list of the most common toxic plants for pets.

Poisonous Plants

While plants add a touch of color and fragrance to our daily lives they also inject an element of danger into the lives of our pets. More than 700 plants have been identified as producing physiologically active or toxic substances in sufficient amounts to cause harmful effects in animals. Poisonous plants produce a variety of toxic substances and cause reactions ranging from mild nausea to death. Certain animal species may have a peculiar vulnerability to a potentially poisonous plant.
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction.
This may not represent a complete list of all poisonous plants. Also, your pet may have a sensitivity or allergy to a plant that is not on the list, resulting in toxicity. Always contact your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have ingested a poisonous plant.

PLANT
TOXIC PARTS
PLANT TYPE

Aconite
roots, foliage, seeds
garden flower

Apple
seeds
cultivated tree

Arrowgrasses
leaves
marsh plants

Atropa belladonna
entire plant esp. seeds, roots
garden herb

Autumn Crocus
entire plant
garden flower

Azaleas
entire plant
cultivated & wild shrub

Baneberry
berries, roots
wildflower

Bird-of-Paradise
pods
garden flower

Black locust
entire plant esp. bark, shoots
tree

Bloodroot
entire plant esp. stem, roots
wildflower, herb

Box
entire plant esp. leaves
ornamental shrub

Buckeye
sprouts, nuts, seeds
tree

Buttercup
entire plant esp. leaves
wildflower, garden herb

Caladium
entire plant
house plant

Carolina jessamine
flowers, leaves
ornamental plant

Castor bean
entire plant esp. beans
house plant

Chinaberry tree
berries
tree

Chockcherries
leaves, cherries, pit
wild shrub

Christmas berry
leaves
shrub

Christmas Rose
rootstock, leaves
garden flower

Common privet
leaves, berries
ornamental shrub

Corn cockle
seeds
wildflower, weed

Cowbane
entire plant esp. roots
wildflower, herb

Cow cockle
seeds
wildflower, weed

Cowslip
entire plant esp. leaves, stem
wildflower, herb

Daffodil
bulbs
garden flower

Daphne
bark, berries, leaves
ornamental shrub

Day lily
entire plant is toxic to cats
garden & wildflower

Death Camas
leaves, stems, seeds, flowers
field herb

Delphinium (Larkspur)
entire plant esp. sprouts
wildflower

Dumbcane
entire plant
house plant

Dutchman's breeches
roots, foliage
wild & garden flower

Easter lily
entire plant is toxic to cats
flowering house plant

Elderberry
leaves, bark, roots, buds
tree

Elephant's ear
entire plant
house plant

English Ivy
entire plant esp. leaves, berries
ornamental vine

European Bittersweet
entire plant esp. berries
vine

False Flax
seeds
wild herb

False hellebore
roots, leaves, seeds
ornamental flower

Fan weed
seeds
wildflower, herb

Field peppergrass
seeds
wildflower, herb

Flax
seedpods
wildflower, herb

Foxglove
leaves
wild & garden flower

Holly
berries
shrub

Horsechestnut
nuts, sprouts
tree

Horse nettle
entire plant esp. berries
wildflower, herb

Hyacinth
bulbs
wild & house plant

Iris
leaves, roots
wild & garden flower

Jack-in-the-pulpit
entire plant esp. roots, leaves
wildflower

Jatropha
seeds
tree, shrub

Jerusalem Cherry
unripe fruit, foliage
ornamental plant

Jimsonweed
entire plant esp. seeds
field plant

Laburum
seeds, pods, flowers
ornamental plant

Lantana
foliage
house plant

Larkspur
young plants
wildflower

Laurels
leaves
shrub

Lily of the valley
leaves, flowers
garden & wildflower

Lupines
seeds, pods
shrub

Manchineel Tree
sap, fruit
tree

Matrimony vine
leaves, shoots
ornamental vine

Mayapple
unripe fruit, roots, foliage
wildflower

Milk vetch
entire plant
wildflower

Mistletoe
berries
house plant

Monkshood
entire plant esp. roots, seeds
wildflower

Moonseed
fruit, roots
vine

Morning glory
seeds, roots
wildflower

Mountain mahogany
leaves
shrub

Mustards
seeds
wildflower

Narcissus
bulbs
garden flower

Nicotiana
leaves
garden flower

Nightshade
leaves, berries
wildflower, vine

Oaks
shoots, leaves
tree

Oleander
leaves
ornamental shrub

Philodendrons
entire plant
house plant

Pokeweed
roots, seeds, berries
field plant

Poinsettia
leaves, stem, flowers
house plant

Poison hemlock
leaves, stem, fruit
field plant

Potato
shoots, sprouts
garden plant

Rattle box
entire plant
wildflower

Rhododendron
leaves
ornamental shrub

Rhubarb
leaves
garden plant

Rosary pea
seeds
house plant

Sago palm
entire plant esp seeds
ornamental plant

Skunk cabbage
entire plant esp roots, leaves
marsh plant

Smartweeds
sap
wildflower

Snow-on-the-mountain
sap
field plant

Sorghum
leaves
grass

Star of Bethlehem
entire plant
wildflower

Velvet grass
leaves
grass

Wild black cherry
leaves, pits
tree

Wild radish
seeds
wildflower

Wisteria
pods, seeds
ornamental plant

Woody aster
entire plant
wildflower

Yellow jessamine
entire plant
ornamental vine

Yellow oleander
entire plant esp. leaves
garden plant

Yellow pine flax
entire plant esp. seedpods
wildflower

Yew
bark, leaves, seeds
ornamental tree

Special WHS Meeting

2009-07-30T10:45:00.000-07:00

CALLING ALL MEMBERS! If you are a member of the Whatcom Humane Society, we need you to hear your voice. The current Board of Directors needs to be voted in by the membership and we need your vote to make it count. PLEASE attend the meeting on 8/10, but if you can't just call us at Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387 and we can arrange a proxy vote for you.

WHATCOM HUMANE SOCIETY Special Membership Meeting Notice

Pursuant to the Bylaws of the Whatcom Humane Society (WHS), ten WHS members have requested a special meeting of WHS membership.

The Board has scheduled a meeting of the membership for August 10, 2009 at 6 p.m. at the Building Industry Association building at 1650 Baker Creek Place in Bellingham.

The petitioners have requested the meeting to “make legal the current Board.”

The Board will propose at this meeting that the membership ratify the current Board of Directors.
The Board will also consider whether it is appropriate for WHS to amend its Bylaws.

These items will be the only business to be conducted.

Canine Body Language

2009-07-20T21:48:00.000-07:00

I really enjoy sharing information about body language and communication with dogs to people in our community. To help someone understand their dog and what their dog is desperately trying to tell them is what makes my job so amazing.
I have been training dogs for 20 years (wow... that really dates me, doesn't it) and like most trainers I specialize in what motives me the most. For me, that's communication. Whether that's Dog to Dog communication or Dog to Human Communication, its the exchange of voices and thoughts that I want to convey.
I believe dogs are sentient beings with feelings and emotions, and simply want us to understand their needs. The need to belong to a clear, consistant, predictable pack.
To get a family to finally understand what their new puppy has been telling them as the newest member of the pack, or a recent adoption dog trying to communicate his stress and fear, or a day care dog who learns how to play by observing the higher ranking dogs... for me, that's pure joy.
On Sunday 7/26 from 2 to 4pm, I am conducting a seminar on Canine Communication. Its a photographic and video guide to body language. I have been working on the seminar for weeks and weeks, getting just the right photo or video clip to convey all I want to share.
Lots of video of day care dogs and lots of photos over the years of training.
I hope you will join us and finally learn what Poochie has been trying to tell you for so long!

Summer Time brings new dogs to day care

2009-07-14T14:29:00.001-07:00

I love the summer... ya ya ya weather is great but I love seeing all the new dogs at day care. Everyone knows we have a waiting list to get in to our facility. I love and hate the wait list. I love it because I know we have set a precedence of high standards for day care and people will not settle for anything less than the best, I hate it because its never fun to turn a wonderful dog away who needs us.

Our wait list is usually 10 months long. Dogs get on the wait list all year long, but usually don't get in until end of spring and early summer. The nature of summer is change, so we have more movement on the wait list. Dogs move away, people take the summer off ect. On average we see 4 new dogs each week and can work them in on our call in list over the upcoming year, usually getting them in one to two times a week.

So this month we welcome:

Baxter D (a goofy and playful Golden Doodle)
Layla P (a sweet and gentle Great Dane)
Babe S (a young and rambuncious chocolate lab)
Oscar M (a happy and silly Dachshund)
Shaka L (a reserved and quiet German Shepherd)
Levi O (a young at heart wire hair Dachshund mix)
Mira G (a happy go lucky Yorki Mix)
Barley O ( A handsome and lovable Boxer Mix)
Ruby W ( a wild and wiggly yellow lab)
Lucy A (a sweet and snuggly cocker spaniel
Jack H (a gentle giant, big lug Anatolian Shepherd)
Owen O (a Young and adorable Bernese Mountain Dog)
Lola O (a energetic and goofy yellow lab)
Malcom W (a smart and sassy Papillion Mix)
Pablo M (an adorable and wiggly Yorki Poo)
Matilda G (a sweet yet slow moving English Bulldog)

Look for their bio soon on our who's who page as well as their name on your dogs report card!

Kudos to Whatcom Humane Society

2009-06-22T10:04:00.000-07:00

Once a gain WHS will be having a fabulous dog event in Whatcom County. Very soon your dog will be asking to attend The Dog Days of Summer Event. This year on Sunday 9/6 at Lake Padden. We have been a part of the DD of S for 12 years, even before it was a WHS event!

But... to my kudos. As always WHS makes this a vegetarian event. As an animal welfare organization they realize it would be inappropriate to serve meat! To rescue pigs, cows and chickens during the day only to serve them on their menu at an event is odd to say the least.

As a vegan I commend them for their compassion towards all animals.

I am still VERY confused by other animals organizations who do serve meat at their events. even is they were not a vegetarian organization, it would still seem inappropriate to serve animals of any kind at an animal event.

I hope other organizations realize the impact they have to spread compassion for all animals, not just the once they rescue.

For more information, check out FOOD FOR THOUGHT CAMPAIGN

2009-06-16T14:50:00.000-07:00

Deat TAW, We are adopting a puppy next week. The breeder said that will leave one puppy left in the litter and they are good friends. We were not planning on two puppies, but its sad to think of separating them. She is puching us to take two. What to do?

New Pup in Fairhaven

Dear New Pup,
This is a question we get all too often...unfortunately. Having two dogs is great, everyone knows I am a multi-dog kind of girl, but two puppies? Not so much. We want your puppy to grow up as an independent, confident, secure dog. The likelihood of that happening with another pup in the household even close to his age is not a high possibility. Read over this hand out and you will see your "breeder" in a new light.

Two Puppies or One?
Are you getting a new dog and thinking of adopting two puppies at once? Would that double the pleasure? Could they be company for each other when you’re not home? Does it seem a good way to settle competition between human partners or the children in the family over who gets to play with the dog? More dogs, more to go around—does that plan work?
Not exactly. Expert breeders are careful about placing two puppies together in one home, because they know its very rare to find a family that understands how much work it is to raise both of them properly. A big red flag if our breeder or rescue group does not have a very lengthy discussion about the problems associated with two pups together. An improperly raised puppy can wind up homeless when the little and cute stage wears off and the defense drives begin to mature. Even dogs who don’t become aggressive can become too rowdy for the family, if they weren’t given the right training early.
Puppies are individuals and each puppy needs a good upbringing. This includes plenty of good experiences with people, places and things. It includes plenty of training and plenty of conditioning to being touched and handled by humans. Most of this work must be done with the puppy one-on-one, away from any other dogs in the household. How is this accomplished?
How to Raise Two Puppies Successfully
Skilled dog trainers and breeders often have the job of raising two puppies at once, so we know a lot about how to do this successfully. Here are some keys to success:
1. Make a careful choice. Dogs who get along as puppies will not necessarily get along at maturity. If you plan to keep your dogs together later (breeders and trainers often keep their dogs routinely separated, all or part of the time), it’s important to choose a pair with the best chance of a happy relationship as mature dogs. Most puppies get along, so that tells you nothing about how they will do later.
Getting dogs of opposite sex is usually the number one criteria for them to live safely and happily together later. In some breeds it’s especially dangerous to keep two of the same sex together, so do your homework if you’re considering that. Nature will take its course later, no matter how much you try to get them to love each other. They can love each other literally to the death, especially two females of certain breeds.
2. If you are going to keep the dogs together, plan to spay and neuter them, spaying the female before her first heat. If you want to breed dogs, they will need to live apart at least some of the time. Dogs need to be supervised during matings to prevent injuries, and females should not be bred on every cycle. Besides that, it’s quite possible your two dogs would turn out to be a poor genetic pairing. A male and female dog may be able to live freely together after maturity if both are altered. They actually have a richer social life that way than when used for breeding.
3. The pups need to be trained to rest calmly in separate crates while they are young. Putting two dogs in the same crate causes all kinds of problems, including excessive stress, fighting, and an over-dependence on each other. If there’s a mess, both are confined in it. Neither can get away from the other, and that’s just not natural for dogs. Plus, they very much need to learn while young that it is safe to be alone. And they need to bond with humans, which is hard for them to do when they spend all their time with another dog.
4. Each pup needs plenty of outings with humans without the other pup. This is an essential part of the pup developing an individual identity and the ability to function without the other one. It also gives the pup a desperately needed opportunity to bond with humans.
All dogs need to go out with you for socialization to people, places and things. The difference with two puppies is that you need to do double outings, ideally one per day for each puppy. This process is best continued at least until a year of age, longer for some dogs.
5. Each pup needs to be trained as an individual. When you have one puppy, a lot of training can happen around the house in the course of the day. Having two puppies complicates things. The outings will give you necessary opportunities to train the puppies away from each other. This means separate puppy classes, separate walks, etc.
Responsibility in dogs is an individual trait, not a group characteristic. A group of people is a mob and a group of dogs is a pack. A pack will do things you don’t want your dogs doing, because their instincts get over-stimulated and a different set of instincts kicks in.
Your best hope of controlling your dogs when they are together is to have an excellent foundation of training with each dog as an individual. Without that, the dogs can get hurt, other animals and people in the household can get hurt, and you can get hurt, too. You need to be able to control each dog with just your voice, not sticking your hands into a situation with teeth flashing.
Each dog needs to go to training class weekly without the other dog (many instructors wisely will not let family members train two dogs from the same family in the same class) and practice the class homework daily away from the other dog. As they become well-trained, you’ll also want to practice working them together so they also learn to obey with the pack influence.
Why It’s Hard
Because of the need to separate the dogs for training, for bonding time with humans, and to prevent them from becoming unable to function apart—it’s actually more than twice the work to raise two puppies at the same time. Things like housetraining can present huge challenges, too, since the scent of an accident from one puppy stimulates the other puppy to use the same spot.
If you get two males, housetraining problems can escalate as they mature. For best housetraining results, try to have males neutered by a year of age at the latest. Research shows it helps at any age, though, so if that time has passed, it’s still worth neutering for housetraining and for other reasons, such as prostate health in later life.
We don’t necessarily think in terms of “identity” with dogs, but it might help if we did. From human twins it has been learned that too much togetherness can make it difficult for each to develop a healthy sense of identity. Like human twins, dogs sometimes must be separated. If they have not learned to function comfortably as individuals, this can stress them at such times as illness or the death of one of the dogs. It is much kinder to the dogs to develop their separate identities right from the start.
Growing up together does not override normal dog instincts as they mature. You have probably noticed that not all human siblings can get along with each other as adults! The same is true of dogs. It’s nature’s way for those with leadership qualities to divide up and form separate packs that are small enough to live successfully on the food supplies in each pack’s home area.
In the wild when the pups grow up and two don’t find a natural pack order with each other, one leaves to join a new pack or form one. But in our homes, our dogs are not free to move out. When they grow up and these problems become apparent, some dogs are not easy to place in new homes. Too many people will only adopt puppies and won’t even consider adult dogs. It also hurts the dog’s chances of adoption to have a history of fighting and possibly scars.
It’s emotionally wrenching for us to give up one of the dogs we’ve grown to love, too. If you start with a male and a female rather than two dogs of the same sex, this probably will not happen. He can be top male and she can be top female, and they don’t have to compete head-to-head. It’s still a lot of work, but at maturity they are likely to get along. (That is, unless you have other dogs in the home—in which case, it’s going to be even harder to make it work bringing in two pups at once.)
One last concern when you get two pups together is that they will be the same age at the other end of life. It’s likely that you will lose them close together. That is extremely tough emotionally on the family. It’s much better to space your dog’s ages out if you can.
One is Loads of Fun!
It’s actually pretty easy to work around the reasons people think it would be better to get two pups than one. The loneliness thing? Dogs sleep about 14 hours a day, often more for puppies. Most of the time you’re gone to work is sack-out time for the pup, if you carefully condition the young one to feeling calm in a safe confinement area.
Being the only puppy in there, Lucky Pup gets to have goodies it wouldn’t be safe to leave with two competitive pups together, even if you need to use a small room or portable exercise pen with Little L at first because of the length of your work day.
Dog walker, pet sitter, day boarding with your veterinarian, friend or relative to watch your pup during the early months until pup can hold it all day? Less expensive for one pup than two, and more friends and relatives willing to do it!
Puppy vaccinations and medical bills? Vaccination costs and some other bills cut in half. Medical bills from one puppy catching something and passing it on to the other puppy cut even more, and ditto for medical costs to repair puppies damaging each other in rough play.
Outings? One puppy can go along where you go much more often, because one puppy is welcome in a lot of places that couldn’t handle two puppies. Like oh, say, your relatives’ house for a family party. So instead of taking one pup along to that and then thinking up someplace else to take the other pup that day beforehand when you’re rushed or afterward when you’re tired, you get it done in one. Plus the puppy is with you, not home with no potty access.
At spay/neuter time, you can easily schedule the procedure for the ideal time for this pup, not having to compromise in order to prevent an accidental breeding. You also won’t have to worry about separating the pups while each recovers from surgery. (Try doing that for two pups at once—it’s like running a hospital ward!)
Bonding with one puppy is easy-peasy when you do the right things. It happens naturally. It’s work, yes, but it fits most people’s lifestyles much more easily than trying to do the process with two. With good handling and training, your puppy naturally becomes a member of the family.
Enough puppy to go around? For maybe two weeks the kids might compete over who gets to play with the puppy. After that, the “new has worn off,” and taking care of the puppy becomes work! The more people in the family to share the labor, the better. Make sure everyone knows exactly what their part is, so people aren’t all hoping “someone else” will do it, and the dog goes untrained and uncared for.
Raising two puppies at the same time can be done, but...are you sure that’s what you want to do? When you do a great job with one puppy, you may be surprised just how much love and enjoyment comes in that one little (but possibly very fast-growing!) package.

2009-06-02T10:05:00.001-07:00

Dear TAW,
We have not had a dog for many years... and now that we have kids we want to be sure that both the new dog and the kids do well with each other. Any tips before we find the right dog for us? Also... we have an older cat who is not too keen on the idea of a dog.

Congrats on educating yourself before bringing your new dog home!

Kids and pets are a wonderful combination -- if the children are educated about and prepared to have a pet. If children don't know how to properly treat a young animal, one or both may become seriously injured.
Be sure you are not bringing a new pet into your home to teach your children about “responsibility”. Be realistic of your expectations about what your children can actually be expected to do. More often than not, the pet care will fall on the parents shoulders.

Here are some tips on how to accustom your children and new pet to one another.

* Read easy-to-understand books about animal care, safe handling, and dog behavior to your children prior to getting a pet. Discuss what you have read with your children.

* Demonstrate how to properly handle a young pup or kitten by using a stuffed toy. Have your children practice with the toy animal.* Have a family meeting and set the ground rules for bringing up new pet. Children need to agree to follow these rules before and after new pet comes home.

* Make puppy or kitten his own little home-within-a-home as a safe haven. Involve children in setting-up this space. Pick a warm, comfortable location for puppy's crate. Enclose an area around it with an exercise pen , and line the area with bedding. Place pup's toys, bowls and bed in this area. For a new cat or kitten a 2nd bedroom or bathroom works well.

* Keep very young children and the new pet separated. ALWAYS supervise small children and pets. Be sure that older children are treating the pet appropriately.

* When pet’s and kids meet for the first time, it should be done in a calm manner. An adult can hold the pet while children slowly and quietly approach and allow the pup to smell the back of their loosely closed fist. Then they may gently pet him.

* Children must not be allowed to hurt or roughly handle a pet. Don’t allow them to pinch or poke the puppy/kitten or pull tail or ears. Be careful not to let them step on or drop the pet, or to squeeze him too tightly. And never tease or torment him.

* Never let a child hit a pet.

* Dogs and Cats may be afraid of squealing, yelling, running stomping children. Keep pet in his space when they are playing, or have them play quiet games when pet is out in the house.

* Children should not play chase with the puppy -- regardless of who is chasing whom. They should also refrain from playing dominance-establishing games, such as tug-of-war. Teach children not to stare, bark or growl at pup as part of their play as this may make puppy feel threatened.

* Teach children not to sneak up behind or startle pet, and, to leave him alone when he is eating, resting or sick.

* A curious and affectionate pet can unintentionally harm a baby. Pets can accidentally scratch or push your child down, be sure to discuss this with your children before it happens so they know the proper way to react.

* Do not make a child responsible for a pet’s care. When children are old enough, involve them in the animals daily care and overall training.

* Teach children to nurture, love and respect the pet; teach them by example.

Existing pets and the new dog:
If introductions are not properly done, the fur can fly if you already have another pet and add a new puppy to the household. Here are some steps to help your new and old pets adjust to one another.

* If you already have a pet that will not be able to accept or get along with a puppy, don't get a puppy.

* If there is more than one other pet at home, introduce the puppy to them one at a time, beginning with the alpha (head) dog or cat. Introduce them first through the crate, allowing them to see and smell each other. After a few days, let them meet without the crate between them, but have one person hold or restrain each animal.

* Hold introductions in a neutral space if possible, such as in the yard or family room.

* Don't do introductions at meal time and always separate when feeding.

* Each pet must have their own food and water bowls, bed, toys and crate or space. Show the existing pets that they will still get sufficient food, and still have their own possessions that the new puppy may not have.

* Keep the puppy and other pets separated until they accept each other's presence. ALWAYS supervise all contact until their relationship is reliable and they get along well.

* Put a small towel on each (new and existing) pets beds. Swap those towels every other day… but put existing pets towel UNDER new pets food bowls
(and visa versa) they can now experience each others scents and have a positive association with them (eating!)

* The adjustment will not happen overnight. Give the animals sufficient time to accept each other. Introductions should be done slowly, over a period of at least one to two weeks.

* Let the existing pets know the new member of the "pack" is here to stay and should be accepted. Let the puppy know he is the new kid on the block and should learn to become part of the pack.

* Give sufficient attention, first, to older pets, then to the new puppy.

* Owner should continue to support the existing hierarchy of the pack prior to pup's arrival, but don't show favoritism to one animal over another.

* When old and new pets can be together (supervised of course), play as a group and show them that they can have a good time as a larger pack.

SHELTIE?

2009-05-26T16:18:00.000-07:00

Its a long shot... but if you were the woman I was chatting with the other day about a sheltie for 4-h and training... give me a call!
Angi
Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387

New Family Member

2009-05-26T16:14:00.000-07:00

Hi TAW!
You have helped us out so many times in the past... but its been years since we got a new pet. Whats the best way to keep us all on track?

The First Two Weeks With Your New Dog

Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Your new dog will be a wonderful companion for years to come. It is important to recognize that first impressions are often lasting ones. If you follow these simple guidelines, your dog’s transition into your home will be a piece of cake for you and your new best friend.

1. Teach your new dog the rules of your house from the beginning. In the words of Dr. Ian Dunbar, “If you want your dog to follow the rules of the house, by all means do not keep them a secret.” When your dog first gets home, he or she may be a little confused and unsure of the new living situation. Even though your home is undoubtedly more comfortable than the shelter, it is different, and different can be stressful. It is important to remember that dogs do not speak our language and will best understand your expectations through training and management. Training and management should begin the very moment your new dog arrives in your home.

Your instinct may be to give your new friend a few days to unwind and adjust before imposing rules and restrictions. Wile you may mean well, this time delaying training has the potential to be both frustrating and damaging. Right from the very first day, it is crucial to convey your expectations to the dog and to establish an errorless training system. If you do this, your dog can succeed in learning house rules right from the beginning. If you change the house rules a few days after your dog has arrived, he will not understand why things have changed. Your dog may have already formed new habits and will have a difficult time adjusting to yet another set of expectations. It is much more efficient to teach your dog everything you would like him of her to know from the outset.

2. Try not to overwhelm your new dog with too much activity during this initial adjustment period (individual dog’s adjustment period will vary). It is very exciting to adopt a new family member. Of course you want to introduce her to all of your friends and family and of course you want to take your new pal everywhere! All this excitement however could be exceptionally stressful for your dog. Please keep in mind that even in the best of shelters your dog’s world was probably limited to a handful of environments and activities. It is best for your dog to spend the first couple of weeks quietly settling in and getting to know you. Limit introductions to just a few visitors, and preferably only one or two at a time. If your dog has time to become familiar with you and your home surroundings, she will be more confident when setting out on adventures beyond your immediate neighborhood.

3. Keep your new dog confined or supervised at all times. This is the best way to keep your new friend (and house!) out of trouble when you are unable to monitor his actions. Your dog requires a dog-proof, safe place: a “doggie den” -the equivalent of a toddler’s playpen- where he can rest and chew appropriate items in your absence. There are many options for your “doggie den,” but a crate or small room in your house is ideal. However, you may also choose an outside kennel run. Initially you must be around to gently redirect your dog when he chooses an inappropriate activity. If you are vigilant about supervising our dog and showing him what you expect, your dog will learn to settle down quietly, to chew only appropriate chew toys and eventually to become trustworthy in your absence.

Remember: always try to build good habits, because good habits
are as hard to break as bad ones.

FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST TWO WEEKS WITH YOUR NEW DOG. PLEASE REMEMBER SOME DOGS WILL TAKE LONGER TO ADJUST SO BE PATIENT.

-DO, immediately show your dog to his/her appropriate toilet area.

-DO; take your dog to the designated toilet area once an hour, every hour, on leash (except overnight). Allow supervised free time only after he relieves himself in the appropriate area. If your dog does not go to the bathroom on one of these trips, confine him to his “doggie den” OR keep him on leash and supervised, until the next scheduled potty break.

-DO, confine your dog to a “doggie den” whenever you are physically (or mentally!) absent. Such as when you are at work, paying bills, talking on the phone, sleeping, etc.

-DO feed your dog out of a hollow Kong or other chew toy stuffed with kibble and snacks throughout the day, especially when she in her “doggie den” or when you are busy. Also use part of your dog’s daily ration while on walks, during training or when meeting new people.

-DO provide plenty of appropriate chew toys to keep your dog busy and prevent chewing “casualties” in your home and yard. Redirect any chewing “mistakes” by directing your dog to an acceptable alternative. This will also help establish an appropriate chewing habit for the lifetime of your dog.

-DO introduce your dog to new people and other pets gradually so as not to overwhelm him. Use kibble and treats to help form a positive association to new people. Be sure he has access to his “den” in case he needs a break from all the activity.

-DO enroll in a basic obedience class right away! This will help you to understand how to better communicate with your dog in a way she will understand.

-DO look for a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) that uses dog-friendly training methods. Contact APDT.com or call 1-800-PET-DOGS to find a trainer in your area.

-DON’T allow your dog free run of the entire house right away, or else your new friend may learn all sorts of bad habits. First take the time to teach him good habits.

-DON’T take your dog off-leash in public until you have successfully completed an obedience class.

-DON’T feed your dog out of a bowl; all food should come either out of a Kong or from somebody’s hand.

2009-05-18T10:30:00.000-07:00

Dear Tails-A-Wagging, We just adopted a 4 year old dog from our local animal shelter. Our new dog is a sweet, but very afraid Border Collie Mix. She is afraid of men, bikes, loud kids... and many other things. She seems to really like other dogs though. We want to help her be the best dog she can be. What can we do for her? Also, does this mean she was abused by a man or kids?

Jennifer and Bob with "Beans"

Dear Jennifer,
Thanks for contacting us. Fear is an issue many people face with their dogs. We first need to realize Bean may not of had any abuse or harm done to her- as most people think is the reason for such fear. She certainly may have, but we see severe fear in simply under socialized dogs as well. Socialization occurred for her between her 4th week and 20th week of life. As an adult dog, we can no longer go back and change who she is but we can certainly habitualize her to new situations and make her life more enjoyable for her. We also may be able to use her love of other dogs are a gateway to accepting the things she fears. By using them as a reward. First though, lets discuss fear.

Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they’re afraid. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.

Causes Of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful isn’t always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience. It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.

What You Can Do
Most fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience. You may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques

Desensitization
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle. This process may take several days, weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.

Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.

Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it’s impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.

When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.

Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.

What Not To Do
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful. Don’t try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good. Also do not soothe your dog when they are in a fearful state. Its our nature to calm others with our voice and hands, like petting. But this can be conveyed to your dog as attention. We don't want her to learn that her behavior gets attention from you. If you do find yourself caught off guard and she is fearful, say nothing and turn and walk her away from the situation. Not just a few feet either, but far away from it, to the point where her body relaxes. This tell her 1) you are in control 2) he have things handled 3) give her time to recover.
Consider reapproaching the trigger, if she is calm.

Good Luck! The goal would to eventually get her into a group class, so we can work with her fears in a more controlled setting. But one on one training is where we need to start.

Will Work For Food. Feeding your Dog from Food Stuffed Toys

2009-05-15T11:02:00.001-07:00

Will Work for Food …
By Angela Lenz, APDT, AHT
Tails-A-Wagging
www.tails-a-wagging.com

In nature, dogs had to work to get their food. They spent about 80 % of their day hunting for themselves and the rest of their pack. Hunting is physically and mentally stimulating as well as extremely challenging. The “hunt” becomes their job and when they succeeded at their job they received their “pay check“… a big full meal.

Now think of your dog… you give him some dry kibble in a bowl and its gone in about 2 minutes… not much of a job!
When we deprive our dogs of natural drives it can result in serious behavioral issues including: excessive barking, destructive chewing, digging, soiling in the house, aggression, and separation anxiety.

Giving your dog a job can prevent mischief at home
Prevention is always the best cure for any behavioral problems. The top reasons for inappropriate behavior in dogs is due to lack of mental stimulation and basic training. You can help you dog by:
1) enrolling them in a positive reward based obedience class
2) Feed them routinely from chew toys (like KONG) NO MORE FOOD BOWL
3) Once they master the KONG, begin to hide the toy to teach your dog to Hunt
(put him to work )

Toys like Kong’s or Puzzle type toys are made to be very durable. They can bounce unpredictably and this helps lure dogs in to a good game of chase. The toys are hollow, made for stuffing of your pets food and treats. Once your pet masters the art of the KONG, you can get very creative in hiding places.

Ideas for Stuffing:
Mix you dogs regular kibble with a bit of canned food, peanut butter, yogurt, or soft fruit like bananas. This is to help the food stick together. Then take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. Depending on your dogs dietary needs you can get pretty creative here! Then continue to stuff the KONG with the kibble mixture. This helps make the food more difficult to get out. Consider putting Greenie or other Chewy to act as a big reward when they get to the middle. As your dog succeed more and more in their “work” make the job more challenging:
* Pack the stuffing more tightly
* Wedge biscuit inside the cavity, under the rim to secure them
* FREEZE IT: Take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. After stuffing Top off with a cap (wide end) of peanut butter or cream cheese fill with their favorite foods
* Cheese it: Turn the KONG upside down and put in a few cheese pieces and food nuggets. Microwave until cheese melts. Let cool to a safe temperature.

By feeding you dog from a chew toy is not only gives them a job but it teaches your dog to settle. And anyone who has raised a puppy KNOWS…. An extra 40 minutes of peace and quiet is a rarity
Very Important - No Dog Toy is Indestructible Supervise your dog’s use of Kong’s until you are confident they can be used safely without supervision.Clean and Inspect KONGS Frequently - Look for cracks, separations and/or missing pieces. Flex your dry Kong and inspect it from all angles. Loose pieces larger than a food nugget can be harmful if swallowed. Worn and damaged Kongs must be replaced immediately.Your Dog's Safety is Your Responsibility - If you think your dog has swallowed a toy fragment (for example: If the toy was damaged and you cannot find every piece larger than a food nugget), promptly inform your veterinarian.Sizing - Proper Kong sizing is determined by your dog’s size and chewing temperament. Size Up - If your dog destroys a Kong in a short period of time, try a larger Kong and/or a Black Kong. Red Kongs - Very Strong, Very Bouncy Black Kongs - Extra Hard, For Power Chewers Multiple dogs - Only provide Kongs sized for the largest and/or most tenacious chewer in the house. Jawrobics™ - Regular use of Kong will strengthen your dog’s jaw muscles. Eventually you may need to size up or switch to Black Kongs.PREVENTION IS THE BEST CURE FOR BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS.Important Behavioral Tips:1) Is your dog healthy? - Schedule an exam with your veterinarian to be sure. 2) A proper diet is important. - Consult your veterinarian, trainer or breeder.3) Enroll your dog in basic training classes. - Ask your veterinarian for a referral.4) Provide Kongs for physical and mental stimulation.Dogs Need KONGS! - Kongs are widely used for therapy and prevention of boredom, separation anxiety and other behavioral issues. Regular use of Kongs can also improve oral health. Their unpredictable bounce lures most dogs into a game of chase, catch and chew. The hollow center can be filled with food and treats. A dab of peanut butter spread around the inside is very effective. For more stuffing ideas, send for a complimentary copy of “Recipe for the Perfect Dog”.Put Your Dog To WORK! - Providing food and/or treat stuffed Kongs for your dogs can keep them contentedly busy (working) and out of trouble for long periods of time. Add more stuffed Kongs to increase their work time. Note - Adjust bowl feeding as necessary to maintain a healthy diet.

KONG RECIPES:

Frozen Jerky Pops:Peanut butterBouillonJerky Strips
WaterAppropriate KONG toySmear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your KONG toy. Fill with cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside KONG toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan
Aunt Jeannie's Archeology KONG (for advanced dogs) Fill your KONG toy (the larger the better!) in layers and pack as tightly as possible. LAYER ONE (deepest): KONG Stuff’N Beef and Liver treats. LAYER TWO: KONG Stuff’N Tail Mix or dry dog kibble, Cheerios, sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter, dried banana chips, apples and apricots. LAYER THREE: carrot sticks, turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening. - by Jean Donaldson

Percy’s Favorite
Fill small kong hole with Natural Balance Soft Dog Food. Put in a few yogurt coated kibble then a Greenie in the center and fill the remaining space with kibble/yogurt mixture. Cap off with more natural Balance and freeze. -By Angela Lenz

Frosty Paws
Mix one part yogurt, one part peanut butter and one part mashed bananas in a food processor, until creamy. First plug small hole of the kong, turn kong upside down and set into a small dish so the kong site upright. Fill kong to top with mixture. Let stand in freezer for 4 hours. Enjoy!

Ah, The Power of Cheese
Layer your dogs regular kibble (like lasagna) with tiny cubes of cheddar cheese. Kibble, Cheese, Kibble, Cheese as so on. Cover opening with one more tid bit of cheese. Pop into the microwave for 15 seconds. Allow the cheese to cool and harden again- now that is has coated the kibble. Enjoy!

Something Seems Fishy
Great Product: Whole Food Toppers, dehydrated wild caught salmon (available at PetStop) Loosely stuff Kong with salmon. Turn Kong upside down resting it in a cup. Fill with hot water. Let sit 10 minutes. The salmon will re-hydrate and fill all the spaces in the Kong... Enjoy

www.tails-a-wagging.com

A few updates on our Volunteering

2009-05-15T10:30:00.000-07:00

We get lots of questions on wanting updates on the dogs we foster... so I thought this is a good place to do that. As many of you know Jason and I foster Chihuahuas and Chi mixes for Furbaby Rescue. Furbaby Rescue can take in upwards of 500 dogs each year. All are small dogs and many pure bred. FBR gets their dogs from other shelters and private surrenders. We are the Chihuahua reps for Whatcom County, so we usually are helping that breed. But FBR sees MANY different types of breeds of dogs. Right now we have a mama dog, Blossom, and her babies. The babies are all doing very well. We adore them. We hope you will go to www.furbabyrescue.com to see their photos and new movies showing the pups growing up!

Maybe you are interested in fostering a dog. The commitment is anywhere from a few weeks to a few months and its the most rewarding volunteer work you will ever do! Contact FBR for more information.

Angi is also on the board of directors for WeSNIP. The Whatcom Educational Spay & Neuter Impact Program. Basically we provide free and low cost spay and neuter services in Whatcom County. I wanted to invite you to join us on Saturday 5/23, a big group of us will be walking in the SKI TO SEA GRAND PARADE in support of WeSNIP. Dogs and kids are welcome. Our theme is "WeSNIP is out of this world" so everyone (including dogs) is encouraged to dress up in your best costume for the parade. Contact Angi if you want to join us!

When should puppies start training?

2009-05-12T13:02:00.000-07:00

Dear TAW, My puppy needs you! I have a 10 week old poodle mix that we got from a local rescue group. He is a doll, but we have issues with lots of puppy biting and potty training! He does not have all of his vaccines yet... do we wait on classes? Our vet says he can't be around other dogs yet...what to do? HELP!
Sue and Barkley in Bellingham

Dear Sue,
Thanks for the great question. We get this one a lot. Puppies can start learning basic cues as early as 4 weeks of age. But for group classes, with other puppies, we can start as early as 9 weeks of age. Your pups needs to of started their vaccine series of DHPP and Bordetella in order to start class. He won't be done with his vaccines yet, and that's OK. He will get a series of vaccines every 3 to 4 weeks until your pup is 14 to 16 weeks of age. Your veterinarian is absolutely right that your puppy cannot be exposed to dogs in which you don't know their health history. So you can't go on walks in the neighborhood, you can't go to the park and even when going to the vet hospital- be sure to carry him in and don't put him on the floor.(remember...sick dogs go to the vet!) The only real exception to this is Puppy Kindergarten Class where all the other pups are healthy and as up to date on vaccines as they can be. Your puppy is going through a developmental stage right now and there are things that he can learn now that he is not capable of learning later, so the longer you wait to start puppy classes the more you risk he is falling behind in his development. Our classes are for pups between the ages of 9 weeks to 18 weeks- older puppies cannot attend. Its crucial that puppy learns how to play properly and have good bite inhibition by 18 weeks of age, or you will be playing catch up forever. Some vets want to wait to do certain vaccines until the pup is older. This is something you need to discuss with your veterinarian. We feel that the risk of a dog not developing proper behaviors out ways the risk of disease since kindergarten is a controlled setting- but you need to have that conversation with your veterinarian.
Its also crucial that your pup be in a class with only other puppies (sorry dogs, we have other classes for you) and that there is off leash play time in each class. This is a controlled play time, not a free for all! Pups need to learn how to play with different sizes of puppies and follow other puppy cues.
For more information on this, go to our web site and download BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY book, for free.
Hope to see you soon at Kindergarten!

Welcome to the Dog Blog

2009-05-12T12:55:00.000-07:00

We hope our dog blog will help other canine enthusiasts to learn more about dogs and dog behavior. We want to use our knowledge to share with our community.

Tails-A-Wagging has been caring for dogs in our community since 1997. 12 years of making dogs lives better... we have 5 dog trainers on staff to assist you with all your behavioral needs.

We also hope to use this blog to keep in touch with our community in regards to animal issues and events.
Thanks for visiting!
Angi and everyone at TAW