Happy Howl-O-Ween

Halloween is just around the corner. Time for parties, candy and a good scare... quality dog trainers know its also a special time too...

If you have a puppy less than 8 months of age, look at Halloween as a excellent opportunity to work on getting your puppy used to certain things that can cause an adult dog fear.

Costumes, scary noises, kids running about... all can be very scary stuff for an under socialized dog.

Look at this time as an opportunity to show your puppy that these things are good and trustworthy.

 

Do you have a busy trick-o-treating neighborhood? Sit in a chair on your porch with a bowl of candy for the kids and a pocket full of tasty treats for pup. Reward your pup every time they see someone in costume or make a funny noise. They will make the association that the "scary" things are good. Not your scene? Head over to one of the many THRILLER-zombie performances . In one afternoon you can scratch loud music, costumes, scary noises and crowds off your puppies to-do socialization list.

Just remember to bring food treats that puppy will not say no to (think cheese or canned chicken)

 

The goal is to NEVER let puppy react negatively,  if you are not sure what puppy will do,  contact a trainer and they can evaluate the pup before the big day.  I just did this for a few clients last week...costume and all!

Also, if pup is very young and not yet finished with their vaccine history, plan on carrying them rather than them walking on leash as they do not get have adequate immunity to protect them.

 

Look at all of this as an opportunity to expose pup to lots of things in a positive way. Remember, what puppy has a pleasurable experience with now- they will not fear later. Happy HOW-O-WEEN!

Question of the week

Hey Tails,

I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?

 

**********************************************

Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg work on their web site

1) Check out the “about us” page.

If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience, I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this means its likely they are not sure of now to properly screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are not appropriate for day care.

2) Check out their photo or gallery page.

Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its simply not safe.

Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?

Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based- intimidation training.

NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.

Do you see kids on the photos?

If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.

Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?

Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation. Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are looking out for the staff’s best interest?

 

Do you see real grass?

There is no way to sanitize grass... its simply not appropriate for a dog day care or boarding facility of safety and health is their number one concern.

3) Make a quick phone call.

Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.

4) Check them out on Facebook.

What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?

Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the best day care you can!

Hey Tails,

I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?

Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg work on their web site

1) Check out the “about us” page.

If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience, I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this means its likely they are not sure of now to properly screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are not appropriate for day care.

2) Check out their photo or gallery page.

Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its simply not safe.

Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?

Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based- intimidation training.

NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.

Do you see kids on the photos?

If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.

Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?

Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation. Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are looking out for the staff’s best interest?

3) Make a quick phone call.

Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.

4) Check them out on Facebook.

What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?

Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the best day care you can!

Can medication therapy help my dogs’ behavior problems?

 

There are many medications that your dog might be able to be prescribed by your veterinarian to assist you in the training program you and your dog trainer are currently working on.  Problems like separation anxiety,  fear issues, compulsive behaviors and reactive behavior are just some of the behaviors that are helped by medication therapy.  However,  your veterinarian will not prescribe medication therapy without your dog already  having had  an evaluation by an accredited dog trainer who specializes in the issues your dog is having and is also in agreement the medication might be useful.

 

Before any medication therapy,  your veterinarian will also do a medical examination including a full blood work up and urinalysis,  this often includes a full thyroid panel, to rule out metabolic  and hormonal disease.  Some behavior problems can arise from medical issues and that needs to be ruled out first.

 

For specific behavioral issues most dog trainers perform a private lesson.  The trainer will  come out to your home and  evaluate the situation where the dog is the most relaxed.  The trainer will discuss your dogs nutrition plan and current feeding regimen,  your dogs exercise program and current life situation. From that point, the trainer will set up a plan to work the issues.  Only after the plan is followed and if its determined the plan needs adjustment, would medication therapy be discussed. You would work with your trainer and veterinarian together to find the best plan for you and your dog.

 

Its not appropriate for a dog to be on medication therapy without behavioral modification because the whole point of the medication is for the dog to get into a state of mind to actually treat the issues and eliminate them from the dogs routine. Medication is not meant to cover up or stifle a behavior, but to  allow the dog to be able to accept appropriate treatment from a proper training plan.

 

 

Why Dogs Hump

There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior

Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions

"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".

Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.


While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.

While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.

Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.


What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).

In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.

I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.

Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.

Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.

The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.

Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.

Getting behind mounting and humping

 
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.

"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?

"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."

Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.

　

Further reading

ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”

Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.

Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.

Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.

OMG! My dog got kicked out of day care!

I wish it was not true, but people are always surprised there are  a fair number of dogs who do not get accepted into OUR day care.  Our temperament test is second to none,  and yes the expectations are high- and one might be surprised we always have a waiting list to get into our facility.  In 15 yrs we have never NOT had a waiting list. 

So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?

Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs)  as well as pushy behaviors,  basically a dog demanding something from someone.  "BARK"  throw my ball!  "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough!  Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here.  If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff,  a lot of scuffles with the dogs,  stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around?  Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day.  Not a fun place for anyone to be.

Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day.  This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong)  Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break.  No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.

General Bad Manners:
Jumping up,  not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best!  If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.

Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience,  so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care.  Hey,  they are dogs!  Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report.  This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.

Why do we use food to train a new behavior with dogs?

A question I am often asked when referring to reinforcing the dog’s desirable behaviour with a treat, or using a clicker and following up with a treat is: “Do I have to use food to train my dog?”

You don’t have to use any particular tool to train your dog. Professionals like food because it is one of the most powerful motivators in animal training. The reality is that you get more strongly conditioned behaviour if you do not limit yourself to praise alone.

Another advantage of food is that you can use it to target the dog into position. Food, therefore, has two roles: as a target (“lure”) and as a reward. Training with positive reinforcement allows the dog to relax and learn and strengthens the bond between you and the dog. Over time, you can expect “more for your money”, that is more behaviours for fewer treats. You will also become skillful at incorporating other rewards into training.

Aren’t I actually bribing my dog by luring him into position with a treat?
You can’t bribe a dog for doing something he doesn’t even yet have in his repertoire! Put yourself in his place. Imagine that someone said “palana”. What would you do? Nothing, because you don’t understand what that person wants you to do let alone why you should do it. Physically placing your dog into position slows down learning and has negative side effects. Using a target allows you to elegantly obtain the correct behaviour.

Will I always have to food reward my dog?
Certainly not as frequently as for a newer behaviour, but yes, maintenance of established behaviour with (concealed) intermittent rewards is a must. There is no free lunch in behaviour. Think of it this way: you have to feed your dog anyway. You can give it all to him for free in a bowl or you can reserve part of his daily caloric intake and make him earn it! Also, don’t forget that there are other rewards besides food: everyday things such as play, sniffing, walks, door opening, car rides and access to other dogs can also be used to reward established behaviour.
Dogs are just like us: if they can’t win, they won’t play, so it’s our job to make the dog successful. Even if you like your job, you expect to be paid and if you’re not, you quit…

This post is courtesy of:

A responce from petStop regarding a tip featured in Dog Fancy Magazine

Dear Dog Fancy,

I felt it necessary to write and rebut the “Tip” on Page 17 of the July 2012 issue.  Debbie Swanson suggested snapping a digital picture of the lot number and date code off the bag of dry food before throwing it the container you store your food into.  I’ve been in the retail pet supply business for almost twenty years and if there is one lesson I’ve learned it’s to NOT store your pet’s food in any type of food storage container.

Especially hazardous are any type of plastic container.  Allow me to explain my reasoning:

First off regardless of the brand of dry food you feed, the bag it comes in has been designed to hold the food safely for a year or more.  You are paying for that safety when you purchase the food.  When the food is used up out goes the bag.

With plastic the fats tend to adhere.  Fats go rancid very quickly.  It’s not long before fresh kibble picks up the rancid odors and not much longer before rancid fat actually adheres to the otherwise fresh food.

Using Ms. Swanson’s own reasoning, “….lot number and expiration date in case of a recall.” May be helpful if you have a problem but leaves you without the ability, in most cases, to return the food to your retailer.  If a customer brings me a food to return in something, other than the bag it was purchased in, I am unable to refund or exchange it or even return it to our distributor for credit.  I am faced with the decision to absorb the loss or make it the customer’s problem.  Both are bad choices.   Also, it leaves the manufacturer unable to properly test the food since they have no idea if it’s from one lot or several without the original packaging.  Also, since so many dog kibbles look alike it may be impossible for anyone to determine what product is being returned.

Another issue is freshness, as the food is used up the volume of air increases in the container as opposed to simply rolling up the bag.

Here is a common, almost daily scenario.  A customer comes into the store saying their pet is tiring or bored of their food(s).  They have tried switching brands and formulas.  They will say the pet is fine for the first couple of servings then the pet is no longer interested, yet still seems hungry or will only eat it if forced to.  Assuming there is no health issues this is almost always a storage issue.

Another scenario, the customer comes in and has been to the vet several times with their pet complaining of diarrhea and or vomiting.  The vet has run all the usual tests, with negative results.  The vet has made all the usual food suggestions such as cooking for the pet some plain chicken and rice or canned food to help up the hydration, which works because the container has been eliminated.  They pet owner now goes back to their normal food and the problems start up again.

It is not uncommon for customers to argue that they’ve been doing it this way for years and never had a problem before.  Or how come the vet didn’t mention this as a possible issue. I offer up this suggestion, try our way.  Purchase the food that has historically worked the best for your pet. Leave it in the bag, do not use the container at all and see what happens.  It costs you nothing the experiment is free, if I’m wrong you can go back to doing what you’ve always done.   Rarely has anyone come back to tell us we were wrong, and it is very common to hear we were right.

There is zero advantage to food storage container, especially plastic, none.  I realize some need the protection of the container from the pet or other critters having access to the food.  In these situations we suggest getting a container that will hold the bag with the food in it.  You can roll up the bag tight and get it sealed in the container.  Our store’s philosophy is, “the food should never come in contact with anything other than the bag it came in until time to serve it.”

Alan Gardner

Owner

petStop

Bellingham, WA

www.petstopinfo.com

http://www.facebook.com/pages/petStop/167732099970013