TITER TESTING
With the concerns of over vaccination in our pet dogs, you may have questions about titer testing. Here are some of our thoughts on the subject.
What is titer testing? A titer test (pronounced TIGHT er) is a laboratory test measuring the existence and level of antibodies to disease in blood. Antibodies are produced when an antigen (like a virus or bacteria) provokes a response from the immune system. This response can come from natural exposure or from vaccination. (Note: titering is also called serum vaccine antibody titering and serologic vaccine titering.)
How is the test performed? First, a sample of blood is drawn from your pet and sent off to a veterinary laboratory. The sample is then diluted. Titer levels, expressed as ratios, indicate how many times blood can be diluted before no antibodies are detected. If blood can be diluted a 1000 times and still show antibodies, the ratio would be 1:1000. This is a “strong” titer. A titer of 1:2 would be weak.
Should I test for all diseases? The most recommended test examines antibodies for both parvovirus, hepatitis (adenovirus) and distemper, the most important viruses. At Tails-A-Wagging, we also require Bordetella to that test would be added as well if your dog attends day care, doggie socials or classes with us. Rabies titers are not often done in our area as Washington State has a law requiring vaccination of dogs, cats and ferrets, but the titer test can be done.
http://www.whatcomhumane.org/index.php?news_display,147
Why test? The parvovirus/distemper test can help you or others (vets, groomers, kennel owners, etc.) determine if your dog requires additional vaccination, and may save your dog unnecessary vaccines. It is especially useful when making a decision about vaccinating an animal with unknown vaccination history, or for determining if puppies have received immunity from vaccination (more below).
Most experts believe strong titers are a more reliable indication of immunity than vaccination: tests show the actual immune response, not just the attempt to cause an immune response by vaccination. Do not expect, however, that everyone will accept test results in place of proof of vaccination. The subject of immunity is complicated and should be discussed with your veterinarian.
How often should I test titers for parvo and distemper? We require Distemper/parvo titer testing once per year and Bordetella once eery 6 months. this can be expensive and some clients do titer testing for Distemper/Parvo and simply get their dog vaccinated for Rabies and Bordetella.
Does a weak titer mean that the dog needs a “booster” shot? Maybe not for dogs that have previously shown strong titers. But it would be required for attending Tails-A-Wagging.
Should I test my puppy? Yes! If so, when? Ideally, puppies should have had their last vaccination after 16 weeks of age then should be tested to see if further vaccination is necessary. There’s an excellent discussion about testing puppies in the 2006 American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Canine Vaccine Task Force entitled What Are The Possible Applications of Serologic Testing? It reads, “Such titer testing is the only way to ensure that a puppy has developed an immune response after vaccinating.”
Also, since at Tails-A-Wagging we do not accept breeder or owner given vaccines, it may be suggested that your pup get a titer test to show immunity to take a class or begin day care, until the next vaccine (administered by a veterinarian) is given to your pup.
What do titer tests cost? Testing costs vary widely from practice to practice, so shop around. Some vets do in-house testing. Others use outside labs. Some mark up tests and services a little; others, a lot. You should be able to have parvo/distemper tests done most places for less than $100. Rabies tests, on the other hand, can cost considerably more, in large part because they are sent overnight to a lab.
Should I test for rabies antibodies? The rabies titer test will give you an indication of your dog’s immunity if he or she is at particular risk for contracting rabies. It may also be required prior to international travel. Test results will NOT be accepted by Animal Control and most others as a substitute for vaccination of healthy dogs as required by law.
If your dog has documented health problems or documented adverse reactions to shots, your vet may be able to get your dog an exemption to rabies vaccination. A rabies titer test is not usually necessary when requesting an exemption but may be useful when re-applying for a denied exemption. It may also give you and others piece of mind if you’re contemplating an exemption.
Can I test titers immediately after vaccinating? To get an accurate test, you must wait at least 14 days after vaccination before testing.
Also, remember that since titer testing only checks the current level of immunity in your dog and your dogs immune response can be altered by illness or disease (infection, internal parasites etc) expect that if you dog becomes ill for any reason, you will be required to have titer testing done again, for Tails-A-Wagging requirements.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
HELP! My Puppy Is out of his MIND!
I KNOW you can help... as you are aware we got a puppy last week. We start classes with you soon, but until then, we need some help. Just like everyone, we are a busy family and we are committed to this pup, but is there something we can do to help him not be so CRAZY! We love him so much, but OMG... can puppies have ADD? HELP!
The Wyss Family
Dear Wyss Family,
What if I said "YES" there is one thing you can do that will immediately help puppy be more attentive, more focused, more aware of you and the family overall...AND its free. Now I have your attention! Its hand feeding. Yes, one kibble at a time, hand feeding can help puppy with
- Having a soft mouth
- Teach puppy that hands coming towards their face is a good thing
- Impulse Control
- Basic Manners
- Bite Inhibition
- Attention to the family
- Love of strangers
- and so much more!
Put all of puppies food that he is to eat in a container in the morning. One piece at a time give pup a kibble for some basic cues (coming to you, sitting on cue, laying down etc) nothing too difficult. Everyone in the family can do a little here and a little there, so the responsibility is spread out. Going to get the mail? Take puppy on leash and ask the neighbor to give a few, one at a time. Going to his veterinary appointment? Ask the staff to give a few, one at time. Puppy learns nothing in life is free and that people are the givers of all great things! Very powerful lesson for a pup.
Start right away, and continue for at least one week...many people do it for a much longer time as it can help with the bond between the two of you.
Also, be sure to read our BEFORE You Get Your Puppy Book on our web site
http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/sites/default/files/BEFORE%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy_0.pdf
Remember, we are always here for you and puppy. See you all soon in class!
Tails-A-Wagging Team
Monday, October 15, 2012
Happy Howl-O-Ween
Halloween is just around the corner. Time for parties, candy and a good
scare... quality dog trainers know its also a special time too...
If you have a puppy less than 8 months of age, look at Halloween as a
excellent opportunity to work on getting your puppy used to certain things that
can cause an adult dog fear.
Costumes, scary noises, kids running about... all can be very scary stuff
for an under socialized dog.
Look at this time as an opportunity to show your puppy that these things
are good and trustworthy.
Do you have a busy trick-o-treating neighborhood? Sit
in a chair on your porch with a bowl of candy for the kids and a pocket full of
tasty treats for pup. Reward your pup every time they see someone in costume or
make a funny noise. They will make the association that the "scary" things are
good. Not your scene? Head over to one of the many THRILLER-zombie performances . In one afternoon you can scratch loud music, costumes, scary
noises and crowds off your puppies to-do socialization list.
Just remember to bring food treats that puppy will not say no to (think
cheese or canned chicken)
The goal is to NEVER let puppy react negatively, if you are not sure what puppy will do, contact a trainer and they can evaluate the pup before the big day. I just did this for a few clients last week...costume and all!
Also, if pup is very young and not yet finished with their vaccine history,
plan on carrying them rather than them walking on leash as they do not get have
adequate immunity to protect them.
Look at all of this as an opportunity to expose pup to lots of things in a positive way. Remember, what puppy
has a pleasurable experience with now- they will not fear later. Happy
HOW-O-WEEN!
Monday, September 17, 2012
Question of the week
Hey Tails,
I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some
advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day
care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have
gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to
weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?
**********************************************
Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our
web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare
but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg
work on their web site
1) Check out the “about us” page.
If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience,
I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we
love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs
were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of
dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day
care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with
years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the
staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this
means its likely they are not sure of now to properly
screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are
not appropriate for day care.
2) Check out their photo or gallery page.
Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care
should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its
simply not safe.
Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?
Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do
not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not
using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective
training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth
being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based-
intimidation training.
NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day
care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs
who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a
sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.
Do you see kids on the photos?
If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the
facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are
good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put
into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability
issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This
includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.
Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?
Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being
jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not
professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all
day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation.
Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are
looking out for the staff’s best interest?
Do you see real grass?
There is no way to sanitize grass... its simply not appropriate for a dog day care or boarding facility of safety and health is their number one concern.
3) Make a quick phone call.
Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we
always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in
sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health
requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an
appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in
and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass
our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes
in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.
4) Check them out on Facebook.
What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community
involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What
other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core
beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great
facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?
Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the
best day care you can!
Hey Tails,
I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some
advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day
care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have
gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to
weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?
Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our
web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare
but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg
work on their web site
1) Check out the “about us” page.
If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience,
I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we
love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs
were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of
dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day
care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with
years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the
staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this
means its likely they are not sure of now to properly
screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are
not appropriate for day care.
2) Check out their photo or gallery page.
Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care
should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its
simply not safe.
Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?
Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do
not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not
using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective
training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth
being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based-
intimidation training.
NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day
care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs
who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a
sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.
Do you see kids on the photos?
If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the
facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are
good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put
into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability
issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This
includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.
Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?
Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being
jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not
professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all
day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation.
Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are
looking out for the staff’s best interest?
3) Make a quick phone call.
Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we
always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in
sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health
requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an
appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in
and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass
our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes
in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.
4) Check them out on Facebook.
What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community
involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What
other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core
beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great
facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?
Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the
best day care you can!
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Can medication therapy
help my dogs’ behavior problems?
There are many medications
that your dog might be able to be prescribed by your veterinarian to assist you
in the training program you and your dog trainer are currently working on. Problems like separation anxiety, fear issues, compulsive behaviors and
reactive behavior are just some of the behaviors that are helped by medication
therapy. However, your veterinarian will not prescribe
medication therapy without your dog already
having had an evaluation by an
accredited dog trainer who specializes in the issues your dog is having and is
also in agreement the medication might be useful.
Before any medication
therapy, your veterinarian will also do
a medical examination including a full blood work up and urinalysis, this often includes a full thyroid panel, to
rule out metabolic and hormonal
disease. Some behavior problems can
arise from medical issues and that needs to be ruled out first.
For specific behavioral
issues most dog trainers perform a private lesson. The trainer will come out to your home and evaluate the situation where the dog is the
most relaxed. The trainer will discuss
your dogs nutrition plan and current feeding regimen, your dogs exercise program and current life
situation. From that point, the trainer will set up a plan to work the
issues. Only after the plan is followed
and if its determined the plan needs adjustment, would medication therapy be
discussed. You would work with your trainer and veterinarian together to find
the best plan for you and your dog.
Its not appropriate for a dog
to be on medication therapy without behavioral modification because the whole
point of the medication is for the dog to get into a state of mind to actually
treat the issues and eliminate them from the dogs routine. Medication is not
meant to cover up or stifle a behavior, but to
allow the dog to be able to accept appropriate treatment from a proper
training plan.
Why Dogs Hump
There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior
Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions
"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".
Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.
While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.
While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.
Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.
What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).
In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.
I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.
Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.
Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.
The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.
Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.
Getting behind mounting and humping
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.
"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?
"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."
Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.
Further reading
ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”
Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.
Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.
Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.
There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior
Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions
"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".
Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.
While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.
While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.
Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.
What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).
In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.
I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.
Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.
Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.
The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.
Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.
Getting behind mounting and humping
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.
"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?
"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."
Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.
Further reading
ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”
Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.
Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.
Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.
Thursday, August 30, 2012
OMG! My dog got kicked out of day care!
I wish it was not true, but people are always surprised there are a fair number of dogs who do not get accepted into OUR day care. Our temperament test is second to none, and yes the expectations are high- and one might be surprised we always have a waiting list to get into our facility. In 15 yrs we have never NOT had a waiting list.
So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?
Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs) as well as pushy behaviors, basically a dog demanding something from someone. "BARK" throw my ball! "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough! Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here. If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff, a lot of scuffles with the dogs, stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around? Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day. Not a fun place for anyone to be.
Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day. This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong) Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break. No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.
General Bad Manners:
Jumping up, not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best! If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.
Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience, so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care. Hey, they are dogs! Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report. This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.
So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?
Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs) as well as pushy behaviors, basically a dog demanding something from someone. "BARK" throw my ball! "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough! Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here. If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff, a lot of scuffles with the dogs, stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around? Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day. Not a fun place for anyone to be.
Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day. This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong) Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break. No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.
General Bad Manners:
Jumping up, not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best! If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.
Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience, so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care. Hey, they are dogs! Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report. This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.
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