Its a long shot... but if you were the woman I was chatting with the other day about a sheltie for 4-h and training... give me a call!
Angi
Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
New Family Member
Hi TAW!
You have helped us out so many times in the past... but its been years since we got a new pet. Whats the best way to keep us all on track?
The First Two Weeks With Your New Dog
Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Your new dog will be a wonderful companion for years to come. It is important to recognize that first impressions are often lasting ones. If you follow these simple guidelines, your dog’s transition into your home will be a piece of cake for you and your new best friend.
1. Teach your new dog the rules of your house from the beginning. In the words of Dr. Ian Dunbar, “If you want your dog to follow the rules of the house, by all means do not keep them a secret.” When your dog first gets home, he or she may be a little confused and unsure of the new living situation. Even though your home is undoubtedly more comfortable than the shelter, it is different, and different can be stressful. It is important to remember that dogs do not speak our language and will best understand your expectations through training and management. Training and management should begin the very moment your new dog arrives in your home.
Your instinct may be to give your new friend a few days to unwind and adjust before imposing rules and restrictions. Wile you may mean well, this time delaying training has the potential to be both frustrating and damaging. Right from the very first day, it is crucial to convey your expectations to the dog and to establish an errorless training system. If you do this, your dog can succeed in learning house rules right from the beginning. If you change the house rules a few days after your dog has arrived, he will not understand why things have changed. Your dog may have already formed new habits and will have a difficult time adjusting to yet another set of expectations. It is much more efficient to teach your dog everything you would like him of her to know from the outset.
2. Try not to overwhelm your new dog with too much activity during this initial adjustment period (individual dog’s adjustment period will vary). It is very exciting to adopt a new family member. Of course you want to introduce her to all of your friends and family and of course you want to take your new pal everywhere! All this excitement however could be exceptionally stressful for your dog. Please keep in mind that even in the best of shelters your dog’s world was probably limited to a handful of environments and activities. It is best for your dog to spend the first couple of weeks quietly settling in and getting to know you. Limit introductions to just a few visitors, and preferably only one or two at a time. If your dog has time to become familiar with you and your home surroundings, she will be more confident when setting out on adventures beyond your immediate neighborhood.
3. Keep your new dog confined or supervised at all times. This is the best way to keep your new friend (and house!) out of trouble when you are unable to monitor his actions. Your dog requires a dog-proof, safe place: a “doggie den” -the equivalent of a toddler’s playpen- where he can rest and chew appropriate items in your absence. There are many options for your “doggie den,” but a crate or small room in your house is ideal. However, you may also choose an outside kennel run. Initially you must be around to gently redirect your dog when he chooses an inappropriate activity. If you are vigilant about supervising our dog and showing him what you expect, your dog will learn to settle down quietly, to chew only appropriate chew toys and eventually to become trustworthy in your absence.
Remember: always try to build good habits, because good habits
are as hard to break as bad ones.
FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST TWO WEEKS WITH YOUR NEW DOG. PLEASE REMEMBER SOME DOGS WILL TAKE LONGER TO ADJUST SO BE PATIENT.
-DO, immediately show your dog to his/her appropriate toilet area.
-DO; take your dog to the designated toilet area once an hour, every hour, on leash (except overnight). Allow supervised free time only after he relieves himself in the appropriate area. If your dog does not go to the bathroom on one of these trips, confine him to his “doggie den” OR keep him on leash and supervised, until the next scheduled potty break.
-DO, confine your dog to a “doggie den” whenever you are physically (or mentally!) absent. Such as when you are at work, paying bills, talking on the phone, sleeping, etc.
-DO feed your dog out of a hollow Kong or other chew toy stuffed with kibble and snacks throughout the day, especially when she in her “doggie den” or when you are busy. Also use part of your dog’s daily ration while on walks, during training or when meeting new people.
-DO provide plenty of appropriate chew toys to keep your dog busy and prevent chewing “casualties” in your home and yard. Redirect any chewing “mistakes” by directing your dog to an acceptable alternative. This will also help establish an appropriate chewing habit for the lifetime of your dog.
-DO introduce your dog to new people and other pets gradually so as not to overwhelm him. Use kibble and treats to help form a positive association to new people. Be sure he has access to his “den” in case he needs a break from all the activity.
-DO enroll in a basic obedience class right away! This will help you to understand how to better communicate with your dog in a way she will understand.
-DO look for a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) that uses dog-friendly training methods. Contact APDT.com or call 1-800-PET-DOGS to find a trainer in your area.
-DON’T allow your dog free run of the entire house right away, or else your new friend may learn all sorts of bad habits. First take the time to teach him good habits.
-DON’T take your dog off-leash in public until you have successfully completed an obedience class.
-DON’T feed your dog out of a bowl; all food should come either out of a Kong or from somebody’s hand.
You have helped us out so many times in the past... but its been years since we got a new pet. Whats the best way to keep us all on track?
The First Two Weeks With Your New Dog
Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Your new dog will be a wonderful companion for years to come. It is important to recognize that first impressions are often lasting ones. If you follow these simple guidelines, your dog’s transition into your home will be a piece of cake for you and your new best friend.
1. Teach your new dog the rules of your house from the beginning. In the words of Dr. Ian Dunbar, “If you want your dog to follow the rules of the house, by all means do not keep them a secret.” When your dog first gets home, he or she may be a little confused and unsure of the new living situation. Even though your home is undoubtedly more comfortable than the shelter, it is different, and different can be stressful. It is important to remember that dogs do not speak our language and will best understand your expectations through training and management. Training and management should begin the very moment your new dog arrives in your home.
Your instinct may be to give your new friend a few days to unwind and adjust before imposing rules and restrictions. Wile you may mean well, this time delaying training has the potential to be both frustrating and damaging. Right from the very first day, it is crucial to convey your expectations to the dog and to establish an errorless training system. If you do this, your dog can succeed in learning house rules right from the beginning. If you change the house rules a few days after your dog has arrived, he will not understand why things have changed. Your dog may have already formed new habits and will have a difficult time adjusting to yet another set of expectations. It is much more efficient to teach your dog everything you would like him of her to know from the outset.
2. Try not to overwhelm your new dog with too much activity during this initial adjustment period (individual dog’s adjustment period will vary). It is very exciting to adopt a new family member. Of course you want to introduce her to all of your friends and family and of course you want to take your new pal everywhere! All this excitement however could be exceptionally stressful for your dog. Please keep in mind that even in the best of shelters your dog’s world was probably limited to a handful of environments and activities. It is best for your dog to spend the first couple of weeks quietly settling in and getting to know you. Limit introductions to just a few visitors, and preferably only one or two at a time. If your dog has time to become familiar with you and your home surroundings, she will be more confident when setting out on adventures beyond your immediate neighborhood.
3. Keep your new dog confined or supervised at all times. This is the best way to keep your new friend (and house!) out of trouble when you are unable to monitor his actions. Your dog requires a dog-proof, safe place: a “doggie den” -the equivalent of a toddler’s playpen- where he can rest and chew appropriate items in your absence. There are many options for your “doggie den,” but a crate or small room in your house is ideal. However, you may also choose an outside kennel run. Initially you must be around to gently redirect your dog when he chooses an inappropriate activity. If you are vigilant about supervising our dog and showing him what you expect, your dog will learn to settle down quietly, to chew only appropriate chew toys and eventually to become trustworthy in your absence.
Remember: always try to build good habits, because good habits
are as hard to break as bad ones.
FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST TWO WEEKS WITH YOUR NEW DOG. PLEASE REMEMBER SOME DOGS WILL TAKE LONGER TO ADJUST SO BE PATIENT.
-DO, immediately show your dog to his/her appropriate toilet area.
-DO; take your dog to the designated toilet area once an hour, every hour, on leash (except overnight). Allow supervised free time only after he relieves himself in the appropriate area. If your dog does not go to the bathroom on one of these trips, confine him to his “doggie den” OR keep him on leash and supervised, until the next scheduled potty break.
-DO, confine your dog to a “doggie den” whenever you are physically (or mentally!) absent. Such as when you are at work, paying bills, talking on the phone, sleeping, etc.
-DO feed your dog out of a hollow Kong or other chew toy stuffed with kibble and snacks throughout the day, especially when she in her “doggie den” or when you are busy. Also use part of your dog’s daily ration while on walks, during training or when meeting new people.
-DO provide plenty of appropriate chew toys to keep your dog busy and prevent chewing “casualties” in your home and yard. Redirect any chewing “mistakes” by directing your dog to an acceptable alternative. This will also help establish an appropriate chewing habit for the lifetime of your dog.
-DO introduce your dog to new people and other pets gradually so as not to overwhelm him. Use kibble and treats to help form a positive association to new people. Be sure he has access to his “den” in case he needs a break from all the activity.
-DO enroll in a basic obedience class right away! This will help you to understand how to better communicate with your dog in a way she will understand.
-DO look for a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) that uses dog-friendly training methods. Contact APDT.com or call 1-800-PET-DOGS to find a trainer in your area.
-DON’T allow your dog free run of the entire house right away, or else your new friend may learn all sorts of bad habits. First take the time to teach him good habits.
-DON’T take your dog off-leash in public until you have successfully completed an obedience class.
-DON’T feed your dog out of a bowl; all food should come either out of a Kong or from somebody’s hand.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Dear Tails-A-Wagging, We just adopted a 4 year old dog from our local animal shelter. Our new dog is a sweet, but very afraid Border Collie Mix. She is afraid of men, bikes, loud kids... and many other things. She seems to really like other dogs though. We want to help her be the best dog she can be. What can we do for her? Also, does this mean she was abused by a man or kids?
Jennifer and Bob with "Beans"
Dear Jennifer,
Thanks for contacting us. Fear is an issue many people face with their dogs. We first need to realize Bean may not of had any abuse or harm done to her- as most people think is the reason for such fear. She certainly may have, but we see severe fear in simply under socialized dogs as well. Socialization occurred for her between her 4th week and 20th week of life. As an adult dog, we can no longer go back and change who she is but we can certainly habitualize her to new situations and make her life more enjoyable for her. We also may be able to use her love of other dogs are a gateway to accepting the things she fears. By using them as a reward. First though, lets discuss fear.
Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they’re afraid. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.
Causes Of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful isn’t always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience. It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.
What You Can Do
Most fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience. You may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques
Desensitization
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle. This process may take several days, weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.
Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.
Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it’s impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.
When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.
Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.
What Not To Do
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful. Don’t try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good. Also do not soothe your dog when they are in a fearful state. Its our nature to calm others with our voice and hands, like petting. But this can be conveyed to your dog as attention. We don't want her to learn that her behavior gets attention from you. If you do find yourself caught off guard and she is fearful, say nothing and turn and walk her away from the situation. Not just a few feet either, but far away from it, to the point where her body relaxes. This tell her 1) you are in control 2) he have things handled 3) give her time to recover.
Consider reapproaching the trigger, if she is calm.
Good Luck! The goal would to eventually get her into a group class, so we can work with her fears in a more controlled setting. But one on one training is where we need to start.
Jennifer and Bob with "Beans"
Dear Jennifer,
Thanks for contacting us. Fear is an issue many people face with their dogs. We first need to realize Bean may not of had any abuse or harm done to her- as most people think is the reason for such fear. She certainly may have, but we see severe fear in simply under socialized dogs as well. Socialization occurred for her between her 4th week and 20th week of life. As an adult dog, we can no longer go back and change who she is but we can certainly habitualize her to new situations and make her life more enjoyable for her. We also may be able to use her love of other dogs are a gateway to accepting the things she fears. By using them as a reward. First though, lets discuss fear.
Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they’re afraid. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.
Causes Of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful isn’t always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience. It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.
What You Can Do
Most fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience. You may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques
Desensitization
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle. This process may take several days, weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.
Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.
Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it’s impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.
When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.
Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.
What Not To Do
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful. Don’t try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good. Also do not soothe your dog when they are in a fearful state. Its our nature to calm others with our voice and hands, like petting. But this can be conveyed to your dog as attention. We don't want her to learn that her behavior gets attention from you. If you do find yourself caught off guard and she is fearful, say nothing and turn and walk her away from the situation. Not just a few feet either, but far away from it, to the point where her body relaxes. This tell her 1) you are in control 2) he have things handled 3) give her time to recover.
Consider reapproaching the trigger, if she is calm.
Good Luck! The goal would to eventually get her into a group class, so we can work with her fears in a more controlled setting. But one on one training is where we need to start.
Friday, May 15, 2009
Will Work For Food. Feeding your Dog from Food Stuffed Toys
Will Work for Food …
By Angela Lenz, APDT, AHT
Tails-A-Wagging
www.tails-a-wagging.com
In nature, dogs had to work to get their food. They spent about 80 % of their day hunting for themselves and the rest of their pack. Hunting is physically and mentally stimulating as well as extremely challenging. The “hunt” becomes their job and when they succeeded at their job they received their “pay check“… a big full meal.
Now think of your dog… you give him some dry kibble in a bowl and its gone in about 2 minutes… not much of a job!
When we deprive our dogs of natural drives it can result in serious behavioral issues including: excessive barking, destructive chewing, digging, soiling in the house, aggression, and separation anxiety.
Giving your dog a job can prevent mischief at home
Prevention is always the best cure for any behavioral problems. The top reasons for inappropriate behavior in dogs is due to lack of mental stimulation and basic training. You can help you dog by:
1) enrolling them in a positive reward based obedience class
2) Feed them routinely from chew toys (like KONG) NO MORE FOOD BOWL
3) Once they master the KONG, begin to hide the toy to teach your dog to Hunt
(put him to work )
Toys like Kong’s or Puzzle type toys are made to be very durable. They can bounce unpredictably and this helps lure dogs in to a good game of chase. The toys are hollow, made for stuffing of your pets food and treats. Once your pet masters the art of the KONG, you can get very creative in hiding places.
Ideas for Stuffing:
Mix you dogs regular kibble with a bit of canned food, peanut butter, yogurt, or soft fruit like bananas. This is to help the food stick together. Then take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. Depending on your dogs dietary needs you can get pretty creative here! Then continue to stuff the KONG with the kibble mixture. This helps make the food more difficult to get out. Consider putting Greenie or other Chewy to act as a big reward when they get to the middle. As your dog succeed more and more in their “work” make the job more challenging:
* Pack the stuffing more tightly
* Wedge biscuit inside the cavity, under the rim to secure them
* FREEZE IT: Take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. After stuffing Top off with a cap (wide end) of peanut butter or cream cheese fill with their favorite foods
* Cheese it: Turn the KONG upside down and put in a few cheese pieces and food nuggets. Microwave until cheese melts. Let cool to a safe temperature.
By feeding you dog from a chew toy is not only gives them a job but it teaches your dog to settle. And anyone who has raised a puppy KNOWS…. An extra 40 minutes of peace and quiet is a rarity
Very Important - No Dog Toy is Indestructible Supervise your dog’s use of Kong’s until you are confident they can be used safely without supervision.Clean and Inspect KONGS Frequently - Look for cracks, separations and/or missing pieces. Flex your dry Kong and inspect it from all angles. Loose pieces larger than a food nugget can be harmful if swallowed. Worn and damaged Kongs must be replaced immediately.Your Dog's Safety is Your Responsibility - If you think your dog has swallowed a toy fragment (for example: If the toy was damaged and you cannot find every piece larger than a food nugget), promptly inform your veterinarian.Sizing - Proper Kong sizing is determined by your dog’s size and chewing temperament. Size Up - If your dog destroys a Kong in a short period of time, try a larger Kong and/or a Black Kong. Red Kongs - Very Strong, Very Bouncy Black Kongs - Extra Hard, For Power Chewers Multiple dogs - Only provide Kongs sized for the largest and/or most tenacious chewer in the house. Jawrobics™ - Regular use of Kong will strengthen your dog’s jaw muscles. Eventually you may need to size up or switch to Black Kongs.PREVENTION IS THE BEST CURE FOR BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS.Important Behavioral Tips:1) Is your dog healthy? - Schedule an exam with your veterinarian to be sure. 2) A proper diet is important. - Consult your veterinarian, trainer or breeder.3) Enroll your dog in basic training classes. - Ask your veterinarian for a referral.4) Provide Kongs for physical and mental stimulation.Dogs Need KONGS! - Kongs are widely used for therapy and prevention of boredom, separation anxiety and other behavioral issues. Regular use of Kongs can also improve oral health. Their unpredictable bounce lures most dogs into a game of chase, catch and chew. The hollow center can be filled with food and treats. A dab of peanut butter spread around the inside is very effective. For more stuffing ideas, send for a complimentary copy of “Recipe for the Perfect Dog”.Put Your Dog To WORK! - Providing food and/or treat stuffed Kongs for your dogs can keep them contentedly busy (working) and out of trouble for long periods of time. Add more stuffed Kongs to increase their work time. Note - Adjust bowl feeding as necessary to maintain a healthy diet.
KONG RECIPES:
Frozen Jerky Pops:Peanut butterBouillonJerky Strips
WaterAppropriate KONG toySmear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your KONG toy. Fill with cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside KONG toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan
Aunt Jeannie's Archeology KONG (for advanced dogs) Fill your KONG toy (the larger the better!) in layers and pack as tightly as possible. LAYER ONE (deepest): KONG Stuff’N Beef and Liver treats. LAYER TWO: KONG Stuff’N Tail Mix or dry dog kibble, Cheerios, sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter, dried banana chips, apples and apricots. LAYER THREE: carrot sticks, turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening. - by Jean Donaldson
Percy’s Favorite
Fill small kong hole with Natural Balance Soft Dog Food. Put in a few yogurt coated kibble then a Greenie in the center and fill the remaining space with kibble/yogurt mixture. Cap off with more natural Balance and freeze. -By Angela Lenz
Frosty Paws
Mix one part yogurt, one part peanut butter and one part mashed bananas in a food processor, until creamy. First plug small hole of the kong, turn kong upside down and set into a small dish so the kong site upright. Fill kong to top with mixture. Let stand in freezer for 4 hours. Enjoy!
Ah, The Power of Cheese
Layer your dogs regular kibble (like lasagna) with tiny cubes of cheddar cheese. Kibble, Cheese, Kibble, Cheese as so on. Cover opening with one more tid bit of cheese. Pop into the microwave for 15 seconds. Allow the cheese to cool and harden again- now that is has coated the kibble. Enjoy!
Something Seems Fishy
Great Product: Whole Food Toppers, dehydrated wild caught salmon (available at PetStop) Loosely stuff Kong with salmon. Turn Kong upside down resting it in a cup. Fill with hot water. Let sit 10 minutes. The salmon will re-hydrate and fill all the spaces in the Kong... Enjoy
www.tails-a-wagging.com
By Angela Lenz, APDT, AHT
Tails-A-Wagging
www.tails-a-wagging.com
In nature, dogs had to work to get their food. They spent about 80 % of their day hunting for themselves and the rest of their pack. Hunting is physically and mentally stimulating as well as extremely challenging. The “hunt” becomes their job and when they succeeded at their job they received their “pay check“… a big full meal.
Now think of your dog… you give him some dry kibble in a bowl and its gone in about 2 minutes… not much of a job!
When we deprive our dogs of natural drives it can result in serious behavioral issues including: excessive barking, destructive chewing, digging, soiling in the house, aggression, and separation anxiety.
Giving your dog a job can prevent mischief at home
Prevention is always the best cure for any behavioral problems. The top reasons for inappropriate behavior in dogs is due to lack of mental stimulation and basic training. You can help you dog by:
1) enrolling them in a positive reward based obedience class
2) Feed them routinely from chew toys (like KONG) NO MORE FOOD BOWL
3) Once they master the KONG, begin to hide the toy to teach your dog to Hunt
(put him to work )
Toys like Kong’s or Puzzle type toys are made to be very durable. They can bounce unpredictably and this helps lure dogs in to a good game of chase. The toys are hollow, made for stuffing of your pets food and treats. Once your pet masters the art of the KONG, you can get very creative in hiding places.
Ideas for Stuffing:
Mix you dogs regular kibble with a bit of canned food, peanut butter, yogurt, or soft fruit like bananas. This is to help the food stick together. Then take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. Depending on your dogs dietary needs you can get pretty creative here! Then continue to stuff the KONG with the kibble mixture. This helps make the food more difficult to get out. Consider putting Greenie or other Chewy to act as a big reward when they get to the middle. As your dog succeed more and more in their “work” make the job more challenging:
* Pack the stuffing more tightly
* Wedge biscuit inside the cavity, under the rim to secure them
* FREEZE IT: Take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. After stuffing Top off with a cap (wide end) of peanut butter or cream cheese fill with their favorite foods
* Cheese it: Turn the KONG upside down and put in a few cheese pieces and food nuggets. Microwave until cheese melts. Let cool to a safe temperature.
By feeding you dog from a chew toy is not only gives them a job but it teaches your dog to settle. And anyone who has raised a puppy KNOWS…. An extra 40 minutes of peace and quiet is a rarity
Very Important - No Dog Toy is Indestructible Supervise your dog’s use of Kong’s until you are confident they can be used safely without supervision.Clean and Inspect KONGS Frequently - Look for cracks, separations and/or missing pieces. Flex your dry Kong and inspect it from all angles. Loose pieces larger than a food nugget can be harmful if swallowed. Worn and damaged Kongs must be replaced immediately.Your Dog's Safety is Your Responsibility - If you think your dog has swallowed a toy fragment (for example: If the toy was damaged and you cannot find every piece larger than a food nugget), promptly inform your veterinarian.Sizing - Proper Kong sizing is determined by your dog’s size and chewing temperament. Size Up - If your dog destroys a Kong in a short period of time, try a larger Kong and/or a Black Kong. Red Kongs - Very Strong, Very Bouncy Black Kongs - Extra Hard, For Power Chewers Multiple dogs - Only provide Kongs sized for the largest and/or most tenacious chewer in the house. Jawrobics™ - Regular use of Kong will strengthen your dog’s jaw muscles. Eventually you may need to size up or switch to Black Kongs.PREVENTION IS THE BEST CURE FOR BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS.Important Behavioral Tips:1) Is your dog healthy? - Schedule an exam with your veterinarian to be sure. 2) A proper diet is important. - Consult your veterinarian, trainer or breeder.3) Enroll your dog in basic training classes. - Ask your veterinarian for a referral.4) Provide Kongs for physical and mental stimulation.Dogs Need KONGS! - Kongs are widely used for therapy and prevention of boredom, separation anxiety and other behavioral issues. Regular use of Kongs can also improve oral health. Their unpredictable bounce lures most dogs into a game of chase, catch and chew. The hollow center can be filled with food and treats. A dab of peanut butter spread around the inside is very effective. For more stuffing ideas, send for a complimentary copy of “Recipe for the Perfect Dog”.Put Your Dog To WORK! - Providing food and/or treat stuffed Kongs for your dogs can keep them contentedly busy (working) and out of trouble for long periods of time. Add more stuffed Kongs to increase their work time. Note - Adjust bowl feeding as necessary to maintain a healthy diet.
KONG RECIPES:
Frozen Jerky Pops:Peanut butterBouillonJerky Strips
WaterAppropriate KONG toySmear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your KONG toy. Fill with cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside KONG toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan
Aunt Jeannie's Archeology KONG (for advanced dogs) Fill your KONG toy (the larger the better!) in layers and pack as tightly as possible. LAYER ONE (deepest): KONG Stuff’N Beef and Liver treats. LAYER TWO: KONG Stuff’N Tail Mix or dry dog kibble, Cheerios, sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter, dried banana chips, apples and apricots. LAYER THREE: carrot sticks, turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening. - by Jean Donaldson
Percy’s Favorite
Fill small kong hole with Natural Balance Soft Dog Food. Put in a few yogurt coated kibble then a Greenie in the center and fill the remaining space with kibble/yogurt mixture. Cap off with more natural Balance and freeze. -By Angela Lenz
Frosty Paws
Mix one part yogurt, one part peanut butter and one part mashed bananas in a food processor, until creamy. First plug small hole of the kong, turn kong upside down and set into a small dish so the kong site upright. Fill kong to top with mixture. Let stand in freezer for 4 hours. Enjoy!
Ah, The Power of Cheese
Layer your dogs regular kibble (like lasagna) with tiny cubes of cheddar cheese. Kibble, Cheese, Kibble, Cheese as so on. Cover opening with one more tid bit of cheese. Pop into the microwave for 15 seconds. Allow the cheese to cool and harden again- now that is has coated the kibble. Enjoy!
Something Seems Fishy
Great Product: Whole Food Toppers, dehydrated wild caught salmon (available at PetStop) Loosely stuff Kong with salmon. Turn Kong upside down resting it in a cup. Fill with hot water. Let sit 10 minutes. The salmon will re-hydrate and fill all the spaces in the Kong... Enjoy
www.tails-a-wagging.com
A few updates on our Volunteering
We get lots of questions on wanting updates on the dogs we foster... so I thought this is a good place to do that. As many of you know Jason and I foster Chihuahuas and Chi mixes for Furbaby Rescue. Furbaby Rescue can take in upwards of 500 dogs each year. All are small dogs and many pure bred. FBR gets their dogs from other shelters and private surrenders. We are the Chihuahua reps for Whatcom County, so we usually are helping that breed. But FBR sees MANY different types of breeds of dogs. Right now we have a mama dog, Blossom, and her babies. The babies are all doing very well. We adore them. We hope you will go to www.furbabyrescue.com to see their photos and new movies showing the pups growing up!
Maybe you are interested in fostering a dog. The commitment is anywhere from a few weeks to a few months and its the most rewarding volunteer work you will ever do! Contact FBR for more information.
Angi is also on the board of directors for WeSNIP. The Whatcom Educational Spay & Neuter Impact Program. Basically we provide free and low cost spay and neuter services in Whatcom County. I wanted to invite you to join us on Saturday 5/23, a big group of us will be walking in the SKI TO SEA GRAND PARADE in support of WeSNIP. Dogs and kids are welcome. Our theme is "WeSNIP is out of this world" so everyone (including dogs) is encouraged to dress up in your best costume for the parade. Contact Angi if you want to join us!
Maybe you are interested in fostering a dog. The commitment is anywhere from a few weeks to a few months and its the most rewarding volunteer work you will ever do! Contact FBR for more information.
Angi is also on the board of directors for WeSNIP. The Whatcom Educational Spay & Neuter Impact Program. Basically we provide free and low cost spay and neuter services in Whatcom County. I wanted to invite you to join us on Saturday 5/23, a big group of us will be walking in the SKI TO SEA GRAND PARADE in support of WeSNIP. Dogs and kids are welcome. Our theme is "WeSNIP is out of this world" so everyone (including dogs) is encouraged to dress up in your best costume for the parade. Contact Angi if you want to join us!
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
When should puppies start training?
Dear TAW, My puppy needs you! I have a 10 week old poodle mix that we got from a local rescue group. He is a doll, but we have issues with lots of puppy biting and potty training! He does not have all of his vaccines yet... do we wait on classes? Our vet says he can't be around other dogs yet...what to do? HELP!
Sue and Barkley in Bellingham
Dear Sue,
Thanks for the great question. We get this one a lot. Puppies can start learning basic cues as early as 4 weeks of age. But for group classes, with other puppies, we can start as early as 9 weeks of age. Your pups needs to of started their vaccine series of DHPP and Bordetella in order to start class. He won't be done with his vaccines yet, and that's OK. He will get a series of vaccines every 3 to 4 weeks until your pup is 14 to 16 weeks of age. Your veterinarian is absolutely right that your puppy cannot be exposed to dogs in which you don't know their health history. So you can't go on walks in the neighborhood, you can't go to the park and even when going to the vet hospital- be sure to carry him in and don't put him on the floor.(remember...sick dogs go to the vet!) The only real exception to this is Puppy Kindergarten Class where all the other pups are healthy and as up to date on vaccines as they can be. Your puppy is going through a developmental stage right now and there are things that he can learn now that he is not capable of learning later, so the longer you wait to start puppy classes the more you risk he is falling behind in his development. Our classes are for pups between the ages of 9 weeks to 18 weeks- older puppies cannot attend. Its crucial that puppy learns how to play properly and have good bite inhibition by 18 weeks of age, or you will be playing catch up forever. Some vets want to wait to do certain vaccines until the pup is older. This is something you need to discuss with your veterinarian. We feel that the risk of a dog not developing proper behaviors out ways the risk of disease since kindergarten is a controlled setting- but you need to have that conversation with your veterinarian.
Its also crucial that your pup be in a class with only other puppies (sorry dogs, we have other classes for you) and that there is off leash play time in each class. This is a controlled play time, not a free for all! Pups need to learn how to play with different sizes of puppies and follow other puppy cues.
For more information on this, go to our web site and download BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY book, for free.
Hope to see you soon at Kindergarten!
Sue and Barkley in Bellingham
Dear Sue,
Thanks for the great question. We get this one a lot. Puppies can start learning basic cues as early as 4 weeks of age. But for group classes, with other puppies, we can start as early as 9 weeks of age. Your pups needs to of started their vaccine series of DHPP and Bordetella in order to start class. He won't be done with his vaccines yet, and that's OK. He will get a series of vaccines every 3 to 4 weeks until your pup is 14 to 16 weeks of age. Your veterinarian is absolutely right that your puppy cannot be exposed to dogs in which you don't know their health history. So you can't go on walks in the neighborhood, you can't go to the park and even when going to the vet hospital- be sure to carry him in and don't put him on the floor.(remember...sick dogs go to the vet!) The only real exception to this is Puppy Kindergarten Class where all the other pups are healthy and as up to date on vaccines as they can be. Your puppy is going through a developmental stage right now and there are things that he can learn now that he is not capable of learning later, so the longer you wait to start puppy classes the more you risk he is falling behind in his development. Our classes are for pups between the ages of 9 weeks to 18 weeks- older puppies cannot attend. Its crucial that puppy learns how to play properly and have good bite inhibition by 18 weeks of age, or you will be playing catch up forever. Some vets want to wait to do certain vaccines until the pup is older. This is something you need to discuss with your veterinarian. We feel that the risk of a dog not developing proper behaviors out ways the risk of disease since kindergarten is a controlled setting- but you need to have that conversation with your veterinarian.
Its also crucial that your pup be in a class with only other puppies (sorry dogs, we have other classes for you) and that there is off leash play time in each class. This is a controlled play time, not a free for all! Pups need to learn how to play with different sizes of puppies and follow other puppy cues.
For more information on this, go to our web site and download BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY book, for free.
Hope to see you soon at Kindergarten!
Welcome to the Dog Blog
We hope our dog blog will help other canine enthusiasts to learn more about dogs and dog behavior. We want to use our knowledge to share with our community.
Tails-A-Wagging has been caring for dogs in our community since 1997. 12 years of making dogs lives better... we have 5 dog trainers on staff to assist you with all your behavioral needs.
We also hope to use this blog to keep in touch with our community in regards to animal issues and events.
Thanks for visiting!
Angi and everyone at TAW
Tails-A-Wagging has been caring for dogs in our community since 1997. 12 years of making dogs lives better... we have 5 dog trainers on staff to assist you with all your behavioral needs.
We also hope to use this blog to keep in touch with our community in regards to animal issues and events.
Thanks for visiting!
Angi and everyone at TAW
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
