Hey Tails-A-Wagging. We are picking up a new pup and are looking into
coming to a socializing class. The lady we are getting the pup from gave
the vaccines, can we come to class?
First, we are so glad you are thinking ahead about your pups social
needs. Puppies who learn proper social behavior with dogs in their own
developmental stage (same age as they are) are more likely to carry those
social behaviors through their entire life.
Tails-A-Wagging, we put your pups health first! We have been caring for dogs in
Whatcom County for over 25 years- longer than any other training facility in
require all pups who come to our classes to have seen a veterinarian, be in
good health and received their latest DHPP vaccine and Bordetella vaccine from
their veterinarian or a licensed rescue group.
do not accept owner given or breeder given vaccines.
are also NOT advocates for over vaccination, so if the person you got your pup
from gave the vaccines themselves, we simply have to wait until your pup goes
to the vet and receives their next round of vaccines. (pups get vaccines every
21 to 28 days until they are around 14 to 16 weeks of age)
you might have seen some trainers who are totally fine with breeder given vaccines.
We could not imagine a more risky situation than that for your
puppy. If you find a trainer who allows pups in their
classes with vaccines given by a breeder, RUN... RUN AWAY.
First, let me say we have no issues with quality breeders, but there
are NO regulations or licensing requirements for a breeder. So anyone, from the
qualified person who has been successfully breeding healthy dogs for 20 years
or the person down the street whose dog got out of their yard and got pregnant
to a back yard puppy mill, can say they are a breeder.
a trainer allows for breeder given vaccines, you are putting YOUR puppy at risk
by going to that facility. Your puppy could potentially be in a room with
a puppy who has never been to see a veterinarian, is not healthy and received
vaccines at a puppy mill. YOU HAVE NO WAY OF KNOWING.
need to be your own puppies advocate!
veterinarian will be the first to tell you, your puppy should NOT be meeting up
with other dogs or puppies in which you do not know their health history.
ONLY reason that your puppy can be meeting up with other puppies is if the
training center is making sure those puppies are all in good health and
vaccinated for their age and the only way they can do that is to have written
proof the pup has seen a veterinarian, be in good health and received their
latest DHPP vaccine and Bordetella vaccine from their veterinarian or a
licensed rescue group.
At Tails-A-Wagging we do that FOR EVERY SINGLE DOG
we see in our classes. We are sticklers for health and safety of the dogs in
our care. Our facility is run by a dog trainer who is also an Animal
Health Technician, we care about your puppies health and well-being.
then, did your veterinarian not revaccinate your pup NOW?Again, no one is an advocate for over
vaccination and the best option to prevent issues with over vaccination is to
wait the next 21 to 28 days and re vaccinate at that time.
have developed this policy through years of experience working with local
veterinarians who feel it is both appropriate and sound for puppies who are
directly interacting with each other.
Tails-A-Wagging Vaccine Policy
we require your pup’s most recent round of vaccines to be administered by a
veterinarian or a licensed rescue group. We do not accept owner given or
breeder given vaccines, for quality assurance. There are many things that can
lead to improper vaccination, including improper administration and improper
storage of the vaccine. Even though the person administering the vaccine may
have administered it properly, we have no way of knowing that or if the vaccine
was properly cared for prior to administration. Because vaccines can be
purchased from any feed store, and the staff at that store are not required
have any veterinary protocol information, we cannot be assured the vaccine was
refrigerated upon arrival (for example: it could have sat on a food pallet for
many hours before being refrigerated, if it was refrigerated at all). We simply
cannot risk the health of the dogs that attend Tails-A-Wagging and risk
improper vaccination. At a licensed veterinary care center, the protocol for
vaccine care is already established and strictly followed. The staff is also
trained to administer the vaccine properly. At Tails-A-Wagging we also accept
titer testing. Do you want to learn more about titer testing and how to verify if the vaccines your pup received
actually worked? Read our blog:
A dear client of our shared the following with us. We were so moved by it, we wanted
to share it with you. Enjoy!
I wanted to share with you my husband's speech to his
school district staff because it has to do with Kona. He is the superintendent of the Meridian school
district and this is an excerpt of his "kick-off the year" speech to
all district staff. He projected a picture of Kona on the gym wall as he began
Needless to say it has been a busy summer living
with a puppy in our house. The cat is really mad.
KONA is always happy, always eager and always
excited. 24 hours a day. She is a non-‐stop bundle of energy, is easily
distracted by shiny things, sticks, leaves, things that smell good or things
that smell bad, things that move, things that don’t move, dead things and more.
She easily loses focus.
What I have learned this summer is that just
“wanting” her to “be a good puppy” is not enough. It’s become clear that I need
to have a better strategy than “wishing and hoping.”
I first learned this when KONA struggled in the
first class at puppy preschool and we were encouraged to get “private” training
for her. Of course, I immediately thought, “Yeah. Somebody should teach that
dog to behave.” Of course, I found out was that the training is not for the
dog, but for the humans (my wife Patty and I) so we could learn how to teach
her to “be a good puppy.”
Here are 8 things we learned. You, as educators,
may recognize some of these, as we did.
that being intentional is more effective than being reactive.Telling her what we wanted her to do rather
than telling her what not to do is better in the long run.
that she needs to understand what we want her to do if we expect her to do it.
that we needed to break down what we wanted her to learn into small steps.
that we could not just teach her one time, but that we had to reteach,
sometimes many times, before she found success.
that positive reinforcement is effective and works better than punishment.
to look and plan ahead to structure her environment so that she will be
successful and to try not to put her in situations where she will not.
that it is unrealistic to expect things to be perfect right away and that there
will some mistakes made along the way.
to look for growth over time and to celebrate successes along the way. We haven’t
made any color-coded graphs yet or assembled a data team but we have seen
is, of course, that puppies like children don’t just learn everything on their
own without guidance and support. What the adults in their lives do to guide
them is what really matters. Teaching matters. Teaching well matters.
for your professional work.What you do
as the adults does make a difference for kids…..and puppies. Have a great year!
Join our team! Tails-A-Wagging is looking to add a
dog trainer to our great staff
Tails-A-Wagging Doggie Day Care and Canine
Training Center is hiring.
Founded in 1997, we are the largest doggie day
care and pet dog training facility in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. We are a
100% reward based, positive approach, dog friendly training center with
evidence based outcomes. Our goal is not only share the benefits of reward
based training in our community, but to strive to make all dogs lives better.
We have been recognized as the best doggie day care and training center in our
area for many years and are the #1 referred training center for all local
veterinarians, groomers, pet care facilities and shelter/rescue groups.
Our facility is over 10,000 sq. ft. of indoor and outdoor space, with a 2500 sq
ft. heated/air-conditioned training room. Our current class offerings include:
puppy pre school, puppy kindergarten, basic manners, advanced dog manners,
reactive dog classes, tricks classes, agility, treibball, WAG IT games, and
We also offer a multitude of behavior seminars to educate clients and the
community. In addition to our classes, we also offer private sessions, behavior
consultations, doggie day care, and free puppy play classes.
An ideal candidate for our team will have: Experience where she/he has taught group classes/private sessions as a lead instructor Completed a program at a dog
training school and/or apprenticed under an experienced trainer We are open to candidates with CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, CDBC (or be
working towards a comparable professional credential) but this is not required
with appropriate experience
Experience providing assessments and providing
follow up training with behavior issues such as separation anxiety, resource
guarding, dog-dog reactivity, and dog-people reactivity
The ability to work well without supervision and constant direction; however also
able to switch gears and work well as a team
Extreme comfort/knowledge with dog play styles and body language
Strong written and verbal communication skills
Creativity and problem solving skills
Assist in behavior consults, follow-up training
and behavior clinics
Evaluate dogs for play groups
Behavioral evaluations for our rescue partners
Willingness to teach and assist in curriculum development for pet dog group
Eagerness to learn more through self study and continuing education - Proficiency
using a computer and have access to a laptop Requirements: - Available to teach
classes 2 to 6 hours a weeks (typically weekends or week nights)
Available for in home private training sessions in client homes
Willing to be a Tails-A-Wagging ambassador and help with marketing events (such
as local dog festivals 1 to 3 times a year)
Recognize that being employed as a dog trainer
requires other admin responsibilities outside of teaching a class/private
session. Example: phone/email follow up, record keeping, curriculum/lesson plan
development, etc -
A true team player who understands and works well within a diverse team and
A strong sense of initiative and ability to work independently 3+ years group
class instruction experience 2 + years private lessons experience
Proficiency with a variety of positive training methodologies (clicker, lure
and reward, toy training etc) and the flexibility to use whatever reward based methods best meets the
needs of our busy clients and their family pets, including the use of humane
Critical thinking skills and a commitment to a scientific approach to training
Must be professional, flexible, organized, timely, work well under pressure
and be an active problem solver
Keep training area clean, organized and tidy (although no janitorial duties in this
position, we have a full time staff for cleaning) Our trainers are paid 55% of
all class/lesson fees. In addition, they are paid a monthly medical stipends
for health care.
The hours of this position are extremely flexible and can be as little as just
a few a week or can be more along 10 hours per week and could even grow into a
full time position. We invite you to check out www.tails-a-wagging.com and
interested candidates should send their resume to
Name: Angela Lenz, owner and lead trainer Tails-A-Wagging Phone: 360-733-7387
Let’s talk about
the basics that you should be aware of when you have your dog greet another dog
so the meet and greet goes as smoothly as possible.
We have all been
in the situation where our leashed dog is asked to greet another leashed dog. Walking down the street, in the lobby at
the veterinary hospital, or some friends come over with their dog for a
visit... you are asked to meet and greet.
Most dogs are
happy-joyful-social dogs, but they might not just “click” with every
dog.This is normal.Just like with people…so let’s learn more to
set up our dogs to succeed. We don’t expect everyone to get
along, but we do expect us all to be respectful of each other. The
same goes for Poochie.
me shout it loud and clear. Just because someone wants to their dog to
meet your dog does not mean you have to comply. You officially have my
permission to say “Sorry, not today” Maybe you know your mind is on other
things, maybe you think your dog has had to deal with a bit too many squirrels
today, maybe you are concerned about the approaching dogs body language.
No reason is needed. If you don’t want to, you don’t have to.
You know your dog
better than anyone. You are your dog’s advocate. If your dog has a
history of showing reactive behavior (lunging, barking or nipping at other
dogs) STOP and consult a dog training professional to help your dog with his
Before you have
your dog meet another dog, all humans need to be mindful, agree to meet
and be comfortable with the situation. Don't allow yourself to be
talked into a meet and greet with another dog and certainly don’t be one
of those people who try to convince someone else if they don't want to greet.
No one is on their phone, no one has head phones in... we are all
mindful. Rather than asking if the other persons dog is friendly, I
prefer to hang back and watch the other dog for a bit. Is the other dog focused
or bonkers? Four feet on the floor or jumping around? Is the other
dog relaxed and looking away or stiff and starring? Not sure
what those have to do with a dog’s state of mind? Come to one of our FREE Body
language seminars, or email us for some free handouts to learn more. Now
ask, “Does your dog enjoy meeting other dogs on leash? “ This is a
very different question than “is your dog friendly” it might help the
other person be more mindful too.
Your dogs outfit
matters: I think it’s best for all dogs to meet with no pressure on their
necks. Harness are simply better than collars when dogs are greeting
another dog. When pressure is applied to the neck (even by the dog
leaning forward on their own) it can restrict the breath, creating a bit of a
panic response for the dog. Body harness’ even better, a harness
that clips in the front, not only gives you more control but little to no neck
pressure. (We won’t get into the discussion of choke chains or pinch collars
here, other than to say get rid of them.... but if you have one...call us and
we can gift you a harness if you surrender it to us)
Ok, you’ve got a
relaxed dog on a harness, and the other dog is also comfortable... what’s
next? Lets talk about a loose leash. Think of that leash as a
direct link to your dog’s brain. Soft, flexible and relaxed? Or
tight, stiff and taunt? Keep the leash relaxed, even if this means you
have to move around a bit or not greet at all because your dog is pulling too
hard. Don’t allow leashes to become tangled, just in case someone decides
to do a crocodile impression and roll on the ground. Safety first.
READY?Here we go!
·Eye to eye greeting are almost always a disaster, approach
the other dog at an angle and if either dog is starring, decide to greet
·Wait until both dogs have an open mouth with exposed tongue.
This is a “yes, please approach” signal. Closed mouth is your dogs
way of saying “no thanks, please don’t approach”
·Encourage the greeting to be all about the butt
sniffing, prepare to walk just past each other and around in a
·Now it’s time to count... the 2 second rule
Mississippi, two Mississippi, turn and leave. Let’s try that again... one, two
LEAVE. (It’s not one, two, three leave) Certainly if you see a dog tensing up,
or begins to growl or snarl before your 2 seconds, turn and leave sooner.
·Gently turn and walk
away encouraging your dog to come away with you, giving at least 6 feet for the
other dog to relax. Don’t have 6 feet? Don’t greet. Don’t have a planned
exit? Don’t greet. Not “feeling it” today?Don’t greet.
·As soon as your dog
turns their head, begin to verbally reward
them “Good Dog! What a good dog” When you are a few feet
away, pet them and give a treat. Ideally something soft and stinky.
How did it go? Great, do it again.
Another 2 seconds, then walk away. Some dogs like this 3 or 4 times before
a longer greeting.
This greeting style not only teaches your dog how to be respectful
of other dogs, but it also teaches your dog that you have their
back, building trust between the two of you.
come in many forms, and they may require anything from a brief absence from
your home to permanent evacuation. Each type of disaster requires different
measures to keep your pets safe. The best thing you can do for yourself and
your pets is to be prepared.
Step 1: Get a Rescue Alert Sticker
easy-to-use sticker will let people know that pets are inside your home. Make
sure it is visible to rescue workers, and that it includes 1) the types and
number of pets in your household; 2) the name of your veterinarian; and 3) your
veterinarian's phone number. If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time
allows, write "EVACUATED" across the stickers.
your sticker, contact petStop in Sehome Village at 738-3663.
a safe haven for your pets in the event of evacuation. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS
BEHIND. Remember, if it isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. They
may become trapped or escape and be exposed to numerous life-threatening
hazards. Note that not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so
it is imperative that you have determined where you will bring your pets ahead
your veterinarian for a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities. If
your dog is a regular at Tails-A-Wagging, contact us for getting on our
emergency list, as your pet might be able to stay at Tails-A-Wagging in an
your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for
pets. Our local shelter is : Whatcom Humane Society 733-2080
hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets.
friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to
take in your pet.
Step 3: Emergency Supplies and Traveling Kits
an Evac-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the
family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry.
Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:
kit (specifically for pets) and guide book.These can be purchased locally or at the ASPCA store online. OR build
one on your own. (SEE LIST BELOW)
days' worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two
litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)
or paper toweling
dish soap and disinfectant
garbage bags for clean-up
collar or harness as well as an extra leash
of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any
medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated
out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
water, at least 7 days' worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry
place and replace every two months)
traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet
ideally non battery crank activated
(for scooping up a fearful pet)
photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make
for cats: Pillowcase or EvackSack, toys, scoopable litter
for dogs: Extra leash, toys and chew toys, a week's worth of cage liner.
should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Items to
include: Batteries, duct tape, flashlight, radio, multi-tool, tarp, rope,
permanent marker, spray paint, baby wipes, protective clothing and footwear,
extra cash, rescue whistle, important phone numbers, extra medication and copies
of medical and insurance information.
Step 4: Choose “Designated Caregivers”
step will take considerable time and thought. When choosing a temporary
caregiver, consider someone who lives close to your residence. He or she should
be someone who is generally home during the day while you are at work or has
easy access to your home. A set of keys should be given to this trusted
individual. This may work well with neighbors who have pets of their own—you
may even swap responsibilities, depending upon who has accessibility.
selecting a permanent caregiver, you’ll need to consider other criteria. This
is a person to whom you are entrusting the care of your pet in the event that
something should happen to you. When selecting this "foster parent,"
consider people who have met your pet and have successfully cared for animals
in the past. Be sure to discuss your expectations at length with a permanent
caregiver, so he or she understands the responsibility of caring for your pet.
Step 5: Evacuation Preparation
must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario. If you
think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to
return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been
announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. To minimize
evacuation time, take these simple steps:
an emergency kit and leashes as close to an exit as possible.
sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification. Your pet's
ID tag should contain his name, telephone number, and any urgent medical needs.
Be sure to write your pet's name, your name and contact information on your
recommend microchipping your pet as a more permanent form of identification. A
microchip is implanted in the animal's shoulder area, and can be read by
scanner at most animal shelters.
bring pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets
can become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis.
your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your pet
outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster.
Step 6: Geographic and Climatic Considerations
live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as
tornadoes, earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.
well in advance which rooms offer safe havens. These rooms should be clear of
hazards such as windows, flying debris, etc.
easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe
to a supply of fresh water is particularly important. In areas that may lose
electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have
access to water during a power outage or other crises.
event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has
access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter.
emergency officials recommend that you stay in your home, it's crucial that you
keep your pets with you. Keep your Evac-Pack and supplies close at hand. Your
pets may become stressed during the in-house confinement, so you may consider
crating them for safety and comfort.
Considerations for Birds
should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier.
cold weather, make certain you have a blanket over your pet’s cage. This may
also help reduce the stress of traveling.
warm weather, carry a spray bottle to periodically moisten your bird's
recent photos available, and keep your bird’s leg bands on for identification.
carrier does not have a perch, line it with paper towels that you can change
the carrier in as quiet an area as possible.
particularly imperative that birds eat on a daily basis, so purchase a timed
feeder. If you need to leave your bird unexpectedly, the feeder will ensure his
daily feeding schedule.
to keep on hand: Catch net, heavy towel, blanket or sheet to cover cage, cage
Considerations for Reptiles
snake may be transported in a pillowcase, but you should have permanent and
secure housing for him when you reach a safe place.
sturdy bowl that is large for your pet to soak in. It’s also a good idea to
bring along a heating pad or other warming device, such as a hot water bottle.
can be transported like birds (see above).
Considerations for Small Animals
animals, such as hamsters, gerbils, mice and guinea pigs, should be transported
in secure carriers with bedding materials, food and food bowls.
to keep on hand: Salt lick, extra water bottle, small hidebox or tube, a week's
worth of bedding.
The ASPCA is launching the
first-ever disaster preparedness app for pet parents. This free app will help
pet parents spread the word about their missing pets, store vital medical
records, and make life-saving decisions during natural disasters. www.aspca.org
your own FIRST AIT KIT: here are a list of items to include in your homemade
Scissors with blunt edges - for cutting out things matted
in fur, freeing your pet from entanglements, but also for cutting bandage
Sterile eye wash - make sure it is eye
wash, not contact lens solution.
Tweezers - to remove splinters, or other
foreign materials from wounds.
Tick remover tool - if you are in a tick-infested
area, consider one of many tools to easily remove ticks and reduce
additional damage or infection during removal.
Ear wash - speak to your vet about what
one would be best for your pet.
Toenail trimmer and styptic pencil or powder, for
torn toe nails. Cornstarch also works for torn nails, but not for mild skin
Tape - preferably the 1" white
medical tape. Easy to tear off and holds well.
Roll Gauze - used for bandaging, an aid to
stop bleeding, and padding for splints.
Vet Wrap - this is a conforming bandage
wrap used over a telfa pad or roll gauze that comes in many colors and two
sizes (2" and 4" - pick one that best fits your pet). It clings
to itself and is semi-watertight. Caution is advised to not wrap this too
tight. It is best to unwrap it from the roll, then use it for the bandage
with very light tension. It can be purchased at many feed stores (often in
the horse section) and some veterinary clinics.
Telfa pads - non-stick dressings for
bandaging a wound.
Antiseptic wash or wipes - look for non-stinging
preparations such as chlorhexidine or betadine. Rubbing alcohol is not
good for open sores or wounds.
Antibiotic ointment - over-the-counter "general
purpose" antibiotic ointment for light use with minor skin wounds.
Not for eye use. Caution is advised for animals that may ingest by
licking. The antibiotics are absorbed via the skin, remaining ointment may
collect debris or actually slow healing in some cases. Use with
Vet-prescribed pain relief (NSAID) - speak to your vet about
obtaining as-needed first aid kit pain relief. Do not use human
prescription or over-the-counter pain medications for pets. Some
medications, like Tylenol, are poisonous and may be fatal to pets.
Latex or plastic exam gloves - for your protection and your
pet's protection - use when the situation is messy.
A muzzle - or materials to make a muzzle
(roll gauze works well). Even the most well-trained animals may bite when
injured or afraid.
Thermometer -Digital or ear only.Learn
how to use the thermometer with a pet.Normal Temp for a dog and cat is 101 to 102.5 degrees F.
Water-based lubricating jelly - for use with rectal
Ice and hot packs - cool down skin after a burn or
keep an animal warm if hypothermic. Always use a cloth between the pack
and skin and check frequently for redness or irritation.
Extra towels, wash cloths and a
- use for washing, keeping warm/cool, and if necessary, a way to transport
the injured pet (sling).
For stings and allergic reactions - speak with your vet first about proper
Syringe or large eye dropper - to flush wounds or administer
fluids by mouth.
A list of phone numbers - your regular vet, the emergency
vet, animal control, and animal poison control number.ALSO: Pre Program these numbers into
your mobile phone.
A sturdy box - ideally plastic or metal - to
hold all of your supplies and is easy to carry and pack with you will
complete your kit.
a First Aid Kit for Your Pet Different species, age
groups, and pet lifestyles have different first aid kit needs. For example, a
ferret or diabetic pet kit should include honey or Karo syrup in the event of a
low blood sugar episode. Your veterinarian can help you customize a first aid
kit to meet your pet's additional medical needs.
Owner and operator of Tails-A-Wagging Doggie Day Care and Obedience Training. Dog trainer since 1989, Licensed Animal Health Technician, CGC evaluator with AKC, Certified in Pet CPR. Board member of WeSNIP(Whatcom Educational Spay & Neuter Impact Program)