TITER TESTING
With the concerns of over vaccination in our pet dogs, you may have questions about titer testing. Here are some of our thoughts on the subject.
What is titer testing? A titer test (pronounced TIGHT er) is a laboratory test measuring the existence and level of antibodies to disease in blood. Antibodies are produced when an antigen (like a virus or bacteria) provokes a response from the immune system. This response can come from natural exposure or from vaccination. (Note: titering is also called serum vaccine antibody titering and serologic vaccine titering.)
How is the test performed? First, a sample of blood is drawn from your pet and sent off to a veterinary laboratory. The sample is then diluted. Titer levels, expressed as ratios, indicate how many times blood can be diluted before no antibodies are detected. If blood can be diluted a 1000 times and still show antibodies, the ratio would be 1:1000. This is a “strong” titer. A titer of 1:2 would be weak.
Should I test for all diseases? The most recommended test examines antibodies for both parvovirus, hepatitis (adenovirus) and distemper, the most important viruses. At Tails-A-Wagging, we also require Bordetella to that test would be added as well if your dog attends day care, doggie socials or classes with us. Rabies titers are not often done in our area as Washington State has a law requiring vaccination of dogs, cats and ferrets, but the titer test can be done.
http://www.whatcomhumane.org/index.php?news_display,147
Why test? The parvovirus/distemper test can help you or others (vets, groomers, kennel owners, etc.) determine if your dog requires additional vaccination, and may save your dog unnecessary vaccines. It is especially useful when making a decision about vaccinating an animal with unknown vaccination history, or for determining if puppies have received immunity from vaccination (more below).
Most experts believe strong titers are a more reliable indication of immunity than vaccination: tests show the actual immune response, not just the attempt to cause an immune response by vaccination. Do not expect, however, that everyone will accept test results in place of proof of vaccination. The subject of immunity is complicated and should be discussed with your veterinarian.
How often should I test titers for parvo and distemper? We require Distemper/parvo titer testing once per year and Bordetella once eery 6 months. this can be expensive and some clients do titer testing for Distemper/Parvo and simply get their dog vaccinated for Rabies and Bordetella.
Does a weak titer mean that the dog needs a “booster” shot? Maybe not for dogs that have previously shown strong titers. But it would be required for attending Tails-A-Wagging.
Should I test my puppy? Yes! If so, when? Ideally, puppies should have had their last vaccination after 16 weeks of age then should be tested to see if further vaccination is necessary. There’s an excellent discussion about testing puppies in the 2006 American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Canine Vaccine Task Force entitled What Are The Possible Applications of Serologic Testing? It reads, “Such titer testing is the only way to ensure that a puppy has developed an immune response after vaccinating.”
Also, since at Tails-A-Wagging we do not accept breeder or owner given vaccines, it may be suggested that your pup get a titer test to show immunity to take a class or begin day care, until the next vaccine (administered by a veterinarian) is given to your pup.
What do titer tests cost? Testing costs vary widely from practice to practice, so shop around. Some vets do in-house testing. Others use outside labs. Some mark up tests and services a little; others, a lot. You should be able to have parvo/distemper tests done most places for less than $100. Rabies tests, on the other hand, can cost considerably more, in large part because they are sent overnight to a lab.
Should I test for rabies antibodies? The rabies titer test will give you an indication of your dog’s immunity if he or she is at particular risk for contracting rabies. It may also be required prior to international travel. Test results will NOT be accepted by Animal Control and most others as a substitute for vaccination of healthy dogs as required by law.
If your dog has documented health problems or documented adverse reactions to shots, your vet may be able to get your dog an exemption to rabies vaccination. A rabies titer test is not usually necessary when requesting an exemption but may be useful when re-applying for a denied exemption. It may also give you and others piece of mind if you’re contemplating an exemption.
Can I test titers immediately after vaccinating? To get an accurate test, you must wait at least 14 days after vaccination before testing.
Also, remember that since titer testing only checks the current level of immunity in your dog and your dogs immune response can be altered by illness or disease (infection, internal parasites etc) expect that if you dog becomes ill for any reason, you will be required to have titer testing done again, for Tails-A-Wagging requirements.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
HELP! My Puppy Is out of his MIND!
I KNOW you can help... as you are aware we got a puppy last week. We start classes with you soon, but until then, we need some help. Just like everyone, we are a busy family and we are committed to this pup, but is there something we can do to help him not be so CRAZY! We love him so much, but OMG... can puppies have ADD? HELP!
The Wyss Family
Dear Wyss Family,
What if I said "YES" there is one thing you can do that will immediately help puppy be more attentive, more focused, more aware of you and the family overall...AND its free. Now I have your attention! Its hand feeding. Yes, one kibble at a time, hand feeding can help puppy with
- Having a soft mouth
- Teach puppy that hands coming towards their face is a good thing
- Impulse Control
- Basic Manners
- Bite Inhibition
- Attention to the family
- Love of strangers
- and so much more!
Put all of puppies food that he is to eat in a container in the morning. One piece at a time give pup a kibble for some basic cues (coming to you, sitting on cue, laying down etc) nothing too difficult. Everyone in the family can do a little here and a little there, so the responsibility is spread out. Going to get the mail? Take puppy on leash and ask the neighbor to give a few, one at a time. Going to his veterinary appointment? Ask the staff to give a few, one at time. Puppy learns nothing in life is free and that people are the givers of all great things! Very powerful lesson for a pup.
Start right away, and continue for at least one week...many people do it for a much longer time as it can help with the bond between the two of you.
Also, be sure to read our BEFORE You Get Your Puppy Book on our web site
http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/sites/default/files/BEFORE%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy_0.pdf
Remember, we are always here for you and puppy. See you all soon in class!
Tails-A-Wagging Team
Monday, October 15, 2012
Happy Howl-O-Ween
Halloween is just around the corner. Time for parties, candy and a good
scare... quality dog trainers know its also a special time too...
If you have a puppy less than 8 months of age, look at Halloween as a
excellent opportunity to work on getting your puppy used to certain things that
can cause an adult dog fear.
Costumes, scary noises, kids running about... all can be very scary stuff
for an under socialized dog.
Look at this time as an opportunity to show your puppy that these things
are good and trustworthy.
Do you have a busy trick-o-treating neighborhood? Sit
in a chair on your porch with a bowl of candy for the kids and a pocket full of
tasty treats for pup. Reward your pup every time they see someone in costume or
make a funny noise. They will make the association that the "scary" things are
good. Not your scene? Head over to one of the many THRILLER-zombie performances . In one afternoon you can scratch loud music, costumes, scary
noises and crowds off your puppies to-do socialization list.
Just remember to bring food treats that puppy will not say no to (think
cheese or canned chicken)
The goal is to NEVER let puppy react negatively, if you are not sure what puppy will do, contact a trainer and they can evaluate the pup before the big day. I just did this for a few clients last week...costume and all!
Also, if pup is very young and not yet finished with their vaccine history,
plan on carrying them rather than them walking on leash as they do not get have
adequate immunity to protect them.
Look at all of this as an opportunity to expose pup to lots of things in a positive way. Remember, what puppy
has a pleasurable experience with now- they will not fear later. Happy
HOW-O-WEEN!
Monday, September 17, 2012
Question of the week
Hey Tails,
I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some
advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day
care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have
gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to
weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?
**********************************************
Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our
web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare
but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg
work on their web site
1) Check out the “about us” page.
If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience,
I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we
love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs
were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of
dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day
care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with
years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the
staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this
means its likely they are not sure of now to properly
screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are
not appropriate for day care.
2) Check out their photo or gallery page.
Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care
should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its
simply not safe.
Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?
Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do
not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not
using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective
training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth
being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based-
intimidation training.
NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day
care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs
who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a
sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.
Do you see kids on the photos?
If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the
facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are
good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put
into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability
issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This
includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.
Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?
Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being
jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not
professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all
day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation.
Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are
looking out for the staff’s best interest?
Do you see real grass?
There is no way to sanitize grass... its simply not appropriate for a dog day care or boarding facility of safety and health is their number one concern.
3) Make a quick phone call.
Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we
always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in
sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health
requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an
appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in
and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass
our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes
in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.
4) Check them out on Facebook.
What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community
involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What
other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core
beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great
facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?
Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the
best day care you can!
Hey Tails,
I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some
advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day
care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have
gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to
weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?
Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our
web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare
but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg
work on their web site
1) Check out the “about us” page.
If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience,
I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we
love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs
were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of
dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day
care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with
years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the
staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this
means its likely they are not sure of now to properly
screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are
not appropriate for day care.
2) Check out their photo or gallery page.
Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care
should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its
simply not safe.
Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?
Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do
not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not
using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective
training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth
being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based-
intimidation training.
NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day
care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs
who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a
sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.
Do you see kids on the photos?
If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the
facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are
good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put
into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability
issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This
includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.
Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?
Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being
jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not
professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all
day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation.
Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are
looking out for the staff’s best interest?
3) Make a quick phone call.
Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we
always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in
sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health
requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an
appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in
and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass
our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes
in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.
4) Check them out on Facebook.
What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community
involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What
other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core
beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great
facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?
Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the
best day care you can!
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Can medication therapy
help my dogs’ behavior problems?
There are many medications
that your dog might be able to be prescribed by your veterinarian to assist you
in the training program you and your dog trainer are currently working on. Problems like separation anxiety, fear issues, compulsive behaviors and
reactive behavior are just some of the behaviors that are helped by medication
therapy. However, your veterinarian will not prescribe
medication therapy without your dog already
having had an evaluation by an
accredited dog trainer who specializes in the issues your dog is having and is
also in agreement the medication might be useful.
Before any medication
therapy, your veterinarian will also do
a medical examination including a full blood work up and urinalysis, this often includes a full thyroid panel, to
rule out metabolic and hormonal
disease. Some behavior problems can
arise from medical issues and that needs to be ruled out first.
For specific behavioral
issues most dog trainers perform a private lesson. The trainer will come out to your home and evaluate the situation where the dog is the
most relaxed. The trainer will discuss
your dogs nutrition plan and current feeding regimen, your dogs exercise program and current life
situation. From that point, the trainer will set up a plan to work the
issues. Only after the plan is followed
and if its determined the plan needs adjustment, would medication therapy be
discussed. You would work with your trainer and veterinarian together to find
the best plan for you and your dog.
Its not appropriate for a dog
to be on medication therapy without behavioral modification because the whole
point of the medication is for the dog to get into a state of mind to actually
treat the issues and eliminate them from the dogs routine. Medication is not
meant to cover up or stifle a behavior, but to
allow the dog to be able to accept appropriate treatment from a proper
training plan.
Why Dogs Hump
There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior
Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions
"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".
Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.
While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.
While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.
Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.
What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).
In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.
I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.
Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.
Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.
The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.
Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.
Getting behind mounting and humping
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.
"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?
"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."
Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.
Further reading
ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”
Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.
Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.
Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.
There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior
Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions
"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".
Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.
While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.
While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.
Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.
What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).
In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.
I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.
Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.
Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.
The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.
Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.
Getting behind mounting and humping
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.
"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?
"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."
Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.
Further reading
ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”
Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.
Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.
Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.
Thursday, August 30, 2012
OMG! My dog got kicked out of day care!
I wish it was not true, but people are always surprised there are a fair number of dogs who do not get accepted into OUR day care. Our temperament test is second to none, and yes the expectations are high- and one might be surprised we always have a waiting list to get into our facility. In 15 yrs we have never NOT had a waiting list.
So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?
Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs) as well as pushy behaviors, basically a dog demanding something from someone. "BARK" throw my ball! "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough! Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here. If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff, a lot of scuffles with the dogs, stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around? Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day. Not a fun place for anyone to be.
Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day. This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong) Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break. No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.
General Bad Manners:
Jumping up, not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best! If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.
Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience, so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care. Hey, they are dogs! Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report. This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.
So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?
Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs) as well as pushy behaviors, basically a dog demanding something from someone. "BARK" throw my ball! "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough! Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here. If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff, a lot of scuffles with the dogs, stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around? Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day. Not a fun place for anyone to be.
Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day. This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong) Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break. No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.
General Bad Manners:
Jumping up, not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best! If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.
Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience, so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care. Hey, they are dogs! Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report. This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Why do we use food to train a new behavior with dogs?
A question I am often asked when referring to reinforcing the dog’s desirable behaviour with a treat, or using a clicker and following up with a treat is: “Do I have to use food to train my dog?”
You don’t have to use any particular tool to train your dog. Professionals like food because it is one of the most powerful motivators in animal training. The reality is that you get more strongly conditioned behaviour if you do not limit yourself to praise alone.
Another advantage of food is that you can use it to target the dog into position. Food, therefore, has two roles: as a target (“lure”) and as a reward. Training with positive reinforcement allows the dog to relax and learn and strengthens the bond between you and the dog. Over time, you can expect “more for your money”, that is more behaviours for fewer treats. You will also become skillful at incorporating other rewards into training.
Aren’t I actually bribing my dog by luring him into position with a treat?
You can’t bribe a dog for doing something he doesn’t even yet have in his repertoire! Put yourself in his place. Imagine that someone said “palana”. What would you do? Nothing, because you don’t understand what that person wants you to do let alone why you should do it. Physically placing your dog into position slows down learning and has negative side effects. Using a target allows you to elegantly obtain the correct behaviour.
Will I always have to food reward my dog?
Certainly not as frequently as for a newer behaviour, but yes, maintenance of established behaviour with (concealed) intermittent rewards is a must. There is no free lunch in behaviour. Think of it this way: you have to feed your dog anyway. You can give it all to him for free in a bowl or you can reserve part of his daily caloric intake and make him earn it! Also, don’t forget that there are other rewards besides food: everyday things such as play, sniffing, walks, door opening, car rides and access to other dogs can also be used to reward established behaviour.
Dogs are just like us: if they can’t win, they won’t play, so it’s our job to make the dog successful. Even if you like your job, you expect to be paid and if you’re not, you quit…
This post is courtesy of:
You don’t have to use any particular tool to train your dog. Professionals like food because it is one of the most powerful motivators in animal training. The reality is that you get more strongly conditioned behaviour if you do not limit yourself to praise alone.
Another advantage of food is that you can use it to target the dog into position. Food, therefore, has two roles: as a target (“lure”) and as a reward. Training with positive reinforcement allows the dog to relax and learn and strengthens the bond between you and the dog. Over time, you can expect “more for your money”, that is more behaviours for fewer treats. You will also become skillful at incorporating other rewards into training.
Aren’t I actually bribing my dog by luring him into position with a treat?
You can’t bribe a dog for doing something he doesn’t even yet have in his repertoire! Put yourself in his place. Imagine that someone said “palana”. What would you do? Nothing, because you don’t understand what that person wants you to do let alone why you should do it. Physically placing your dog into position slows down learning and has negative side effects. Using a target allows you to elegantly obtain the correct behaviour.
Will I always have to food reward my dog?
Certainly not as frequently as for a newer behaviour, but yes, maintenance of established behaviour with (concealed) intermittent rewards is a must. There is no free lunch in behaviour. Think of it this way: you have to feed your dog anyway. You can give it all to him for free in a bowl or you can reserve part of his daily caloric intake and make him earn it! Also, don’t forget that there are other rewards besides food: everyday things such as play, sniffing, walks, door opening, car rides and access to other dogs can also be used to reward established behaviour.
Dogs are just like us: if they can’t win, they won’t play, so it’s our job to make the dog successful. Even if you like your job, you expect to be paid and if you’re not, you quit…
This post is courtesy of:
Monday, July 9, 2012
A responce from petStop regarding a tip featured in Dog Fancy Magazine
Dear Dog Fancy,
Dear Dog Fancy,
I felt it necessary to write and rebut the “Tip” on Page 17
of the July 2012 issue. Debbie Swanson
suggested snapping a digital picture of the lot number and date code off the
bag of dry food before throwing it the container you store your food into. I’ve been in the retail pet supply business
for almost twenty years and if there is one lesson I’ve learned it’s to NOT
store your pet’s food in any type of food storage container.
Especially hazardous are any type of plastic container. Allow me to explain my reasoning:
First off regardless of the brand of dry food you feed, the
bag it comes in has been designed to hold the food safely for a year or
more. You are paying for that safety
when you purchase the food. When the
food is used up out goes the bag.
With plastic the fats tend to adhere. Fats go rancid very quickly. It’s not long before fresh kibble picks up
the rancid odors and not much longer before rancid fat actually adheres to the
otherwise fresh food.
Using Ms. Swanson’s own reasoning, “….lot number and expiration date in case of a recall.” May be
helpful if you have a problem but leaves you without the ability, in most
cases, to return the food to your retailer.
If a customer brings me a food to return in something, other than the
bag it was purchased in, I am unable to refund or exchange it or even return it
to our distributor for credit. I am
faced with the decision to absorb the loss or make it the customer’s
problem. Both are bad choices. Also, it leaves the manufacturer unable to
properly test the food since they have no idea if it’s from one lot or several
without the original packaging. Also,
since so many dog kibbles look alike it may be impossible for anyone to
determine what product is being returned.
Another issue is freshness, as the food is used up the
volume of air increases in the container as opposed to simply rolling up the
bag.
Here is a common, almost daily scenario. A customer comes into the store saying their pet
is tiring or bored of their food(s).
They have tried switching brands and formulas. They will say the pet is fine for the first
couple of servings then the pet is no longer interested, yet still seems hungry
or will only eat it if forced to.
Assuming there is no health issues this is almost always a storage
issue.
Another scenario, the customer comes in and has been to the
vet several times with their pet complaining of diarrhea and or vomiting. The vet has run all the usual tests, with
negative results. The vet has made all
the usual food suggestions such as cooking for the pet some plain chicken and
rice or canned food to help up the hydration, which works because the container
has been eliminated. They pet owner now
goes back to their normal food and the problems start up again.
It is not uncommon for customers to argue that they’ve been
doing it this way for years and never had a problem before. Or how come the vet didn’t mention this as a
possible issue. I offer up this suggestion, try our way. Purchase the food that has historically
worked the best for your pet. Leave it in the bag, do not use the container at
all and see what happens. It costs you
nothing the experiment is free, if I’m wrong you can go back to doing what
you’ve always done. Rarely has anyone
come back to tell us we were wrong, and it is very common to hear we were
right.
There is zero advantage to food storage container,
especially plastic, none. I realize some
need the protection of the container from the pet or other critters having
access to the food. In these situations
we suggest getting a container that will hold the bag with the food in it. You can roll up the bag tight and get it
sealed in the container. Our store’s philosophy
is, “the food should never come in contact with anything other than the bag it
came in until time to serve it.”
Alan Gardner
Owner
petStop
Bellingham, WA
Friday, June 29, 2012
If you know that your dog reacts to loud noises, it’s time to prepare for the 4th. If you’re not sure, find out today and plan accordingly.
Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower essence, is a non-toxic liquid that works gently on the energy system to relieve stress and anxiety. It is available at most health food stores and many pet supply stores. Put 4 drops into the animal’s water dish and stir vigorously. Start today and continue through July 5th. You can also add to a dry treat and soak it up, you can do that 4 times a day. Putting on your fingers then rubbing on a dogs whiskers is beneficial.
Thunder Shirts are a great option. They utilize presure points to relax the dog over all. They can be worn continually or as needed. Thundershirts can be purchased at any area pet store or online.
Calming Collars with at least 6% Pharmone release are an option. They release the man made version of a mothers pharmones for a calming-relaxed effect. Wearing it continually or as needed (like the thundershirt) has proven to be very effective.
Another human supplement now used with dogs is melatonin. It should be used for several consecutive days (before and during the 4th) and can calm the nerves and reduce anxiety. The Whole Dog Journal recommends that large dogs take about 3 mgs daily and dogs less than 30 pounds only 1.5 mgs. Herbal tinctures of valerian, skullcap or kava kava can also be helpful. Always check first with your veterinarian for exact doses and usage.
In addition to one of the calming supplements, it’s most important that your animals are kept in a safe place that they cannot escape from. An interior bathroom with no windows is a nice dark quiet spot. Play the radio or TV to cut down on the intensity of the outside noise, and reassure your pet that everything is OK.
It is best to not take your pet to a big celebration, and be aware of what is happening in the neighborhood. Small firecrackers can upset as much as large ones, and dogs can ingest unexploded fireworks. Fur catches on fire easily too!
If your pet is stressed and wants to hide be sure to no coddle them and soothe them with your voice. When we say "its ok sweetie, it will be alright" we are using the same tone as when we say "good girl sweetie, your doing just what I want you to do" Its best to keep them safe and ignore the behavior.
Feed your dog 100% from food puzzles and kong today today. Keep their mind busy and off the sounds around them.
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Reactive Behavior in dogs
Reactivity in dogs is described as barking,
lunging, growling, snapping and generalized vocalizing towards a trigger. A trigger might be a person, a dog, a cat a
bike or anything that causes stress to your dog.
Dogs show reactive behavior to either make the
“trigger” come closer or go further away.
You can determine which is the situation for your dog based on your
dogs’ body language. (See body language handout)
In understanding reactivity in dogs, we need to first
understand that dogs exhibit a behavior because they get a benefit from
it. By determining the benefit, you may
be able to assist your dog in reducing their reactive behavior.
The most common reason for reactivity is our dog’s
own self-confidence or lack thereof.
Lack of proper socialization at a young age is also part of the
equation. Knowing we, as their
guardians, are ones to be trusted by offering predictable leadership behaviors
to them is key.
Working with a reward-based trainer, one who specializes
in reactivity in dogs is essential.
This trainer needs to have extensive training in reading body language
and controlling stressed based impulse behaviors.
Here are things you can do, right now, to help your
dog.
Remove all pressure from your dog’s neck when
walking them.
Choke
chains, pinch collars and other neck restrictive collars can actually create
reactivity in dogs. One
of the first and most important things we can easily do to help a dog feel more
secure is to remove pressure from the dog's neck. Even the slightest pressure
on the neck restricts breathing. In the moment of a fearful or anxious
encounter (and this can include just looking at another dog or person), a
sensation of choking or not being able to breathe only heightens the anxiety.
In addition, one leash contact to a collar on the neck is not the most
effective way to rebalance a dog that is pulling, straining, or leaning
forward. The use of a Gentle Leader with a second point of contact on a harness
removes the possibility of constant tension on the neck and helps us to bring
the dog back into a position of balance on all four feet. The Gentle Leader
also allows us to encourage the dog to avert his eyes or slightly turn his head
away from another dog (which is a calming signal to the other dog) with a very
small signal.
It is extremely important to know that choke
chains and pinch collars can also cause permanent damage to your dog’s trachea
and muscle structure. The purpose of
these types of collars are to give a physical correction to the dog when they
do the wrong thing (pull on leash, break a command etc.) the problem is that
physical correction can also instills a sense of fear in your dog. Since they cannot trust what they fear, corrections
can change the relationship we have with out dogs.
Relax
It is important that the handler not react to the dog's reactions. This
is not always easy if it is your own dog! Maintaining a calm, confident, and
neutral emotional state when working with a reactive dog can greatly influence
the dog's emotional state. Releasing tension from your body and being aware of
your own balanced/neutral pelvis position makes you much more effective in the
event the dog does react or suddenly pulls you toward the other dog.
Know your dog
There
is a distance your dog can be from the trigger at which they do not react. This may be a football field, but there is a
distance at which they are not showing signs of stress. Keep this distance constant when you encounter
a trigger. If you are walking your dog
and your dog is reactive towards other dogs and you see a person/dog team
approaching, say nothing and quickly turn and go in the other direction. This shows your dog you have taken control of
the situation. Reward your dog when they
are calm and relaxed. You may need to
walk your dog early in the morning or late at night to minimize the triggers.
Do not react to
your dogs reactivity
If
your dog goes off on a trigger and you reprimand, yell, tug, pull or otherwise
react to your dogs behavior, you are feeding the problem. Prevention is your best tool, until you can
work with a trainer to learn behavior modification to reduce and eliminate the
issue.
Our Getting to Calm Class is a great option for Reactive Dogs
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
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Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Choosing a Pet Sitter
Pet sitters do much more than provide a pet with food and water while their guardian is away from home.
A good pet sitter also spends quality time with the animal, gives him exercise and knows how to tell if he needs veterinary attention.
What's more, pet sitters typically offer additional services, such as taking in mail and newspapers and watering plants. But just because someone calls herself a pet sitter doesn't mean she's qualified to do the job.
Why hire a pet sitter?
A pet sitter—a professional, qualified individual paid to care for your pet—offers both you and your pet many benefits.
Your pet gets: The environment he knows best. His regular diet and routine. Relief from traveling to and staying in an unfamiliar place with other animals (such as a boarding kennel). Attention while you're away.
You get: Happier friends and neighbors, who aren't burdened with caring for your pet. The peace of mind that comes from knowing that your pet is being cared for by a professional. Someone to bring in your newspaper and mail so potential burglars don't know you're away. Someone who will come to your home so you don't have to drive your pet to a boarding kennel. Other services provided by most pet sitters, such as plant watering and pet grooming.
Where do I find a pet sitter?
Start with a recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society or dog trainer. Check online or in the Yellow Pages under "Pet Sitting Services." You can also contact the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (856-439-0324) or Pet Sitters International (336-983-9222).
What should I look for? It's important to learn all you can about a prospective pet sitters' qualifications and services. Before selecting a pet sitter, interview the candidates over the phone or at your home.
Find out the following: Can the pet sitter provide written proof that she has commercial liability insurance (to cover accidents and negligence) and is bonded (to protect against theft by a pet sitter or her employees)?
What training has the pet sitter completed?
Will the pet sitter record notes about your pet—such as his likes, dislikes, fears, habits, medical conditions, medications, and routines?
Is the pet sitter associated with a veterinarian who can provide emergency services?
What will happen if the pet sitter experiences car trouble or becomes ill?
Does she have a backup?
Will the pet sitter provide related services such as in-home grooming, dog walking, dog training and play time?
Will the pet sitter provide a written service contract spelling out services and fees?
If the pet sitter provides live-in services, what are the specific times she agrees to be with your pet?
Is this detailed in the contract?
How does your pet sitter make sure that you have returned home?
Will the pet sitter provide you with the phone numbers of other clients who have agreed to serve as references?
Even if you like what you hear from the pet sitter and from her references, it's important to have the prospective pet sitter come to your home to meet your pet before actually hiring her for a pet-sitting job. Watch how she interacts with your pet—does your pet seem comfortable with the person? If this visit goes well, start by hiring the pet sitter to care for your pet during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. That way, you can work out any problems before leaving your beloved pet in the pet sitter's care for longer periods. Helping the pet sitter and your pet
Of course, even the most trustworthy, experienced pet sitter will have trouble if you haven't also kept your end of the bargain.
Here are your responsibilities:
Make reservations with your pet sitter early, especially during holidays.
Ensure your pet is well socialized and allows strangers to handle him.
Affix current identification tags to your pet's collar.
Maintain current vaccinations for your pet.
Leave clear instructions detailing specific pet-care responsibilities and emergency contact information, including how to reach you and your veterinarian.
Leave pet food and supplies in one place.
Buy extra pet supplies in case you're away longer than planned.
Leave a key with a trustworthy neighbor as a backup, and give him and your pet sitter each other's phone numbers.
Be sure those extra keys work before giving them out.
Show the pet sitter your home's important safety features such as the circuit breaker and security system.
Finally, have a safe and fun trip. And remember to bring your pet sitter's phone number in case your plans change—or you just want to find out how Fluffy and Fido are doing.
Humane Society of the United States
A good pet sitter also spends quality time with the animal, gives him exercise and knows how to tell if he needs veterinary attention.
What's more, pet sitters typically offer additional services, such as taking in mail and newspapers and watering plants. But just because someone calls herself a pet sitter doesn't mean she's qualified to do the job.
Why hire a pet sitter?
A pet sitter—a professional, qualified individual paid to care for your pet—offers both you and your pet many benefits.
Your pet gets: The environment he knows best. His regular diet and routine. Relief from traveling to and staying in an unfamiliar place with other animals (such as a boarding kennel). Attention while you're away.
You get: Happier friends and neighbors, who aren't burdened with caring for your pet. The peace of mind that comes from knowing that your pet is being cared for by a professional. Someone to bring in your newspaper and mail so potential burglars don't know you're away. Someone who will come to your home so you don't have to drive your pet to a boarding kennel. Other services provided by most pet sitters, such as plant watering and pet grooming.
Where do I find a pet sitter?
Start with a recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society or dog trainer. Check online or in the Yellow Pages under "Pet Sitting Services." You can also contact the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (856-439-0324) or Pet Sitters International (336-983-9222).
What should I look for? It's important to learn all you can about a prospective pet sitters' qualifications and services. Before selecting a pet sitter, interview the candidates over the phone or at your home.
Find out the following: Can the pet sitter provide written proof that she has commercial liability insurance (to cover accidents and negligence) and is bonded (to protect against theft by a pet sitter or her employees)?
What training has the pet sitter completed?
Will the pet sitter record notes about your pet—such as his likes, dislikes, fears, habits, medical conditions, medications, and routines?
Is the pet sitter associated with a veterinarian who can provide emergency services?
What will happen if the pet sitter experiences car trouble or becomes ill?
Does she have a backup?
Will the pet sitter provide related services such as in-home grooming, dog walking, dog training and play time?
Will the pet sitter provide a written service contract spelling out services and fees?
If the pet sitter provides live-in services, what are the specific times she agrees to be with your pet?
Is this detailed in the contract?
How does your pet sitter make sure that you have returned home?
Will the pet sitter provide you with the phone numbers of other clients who have agreed to serve as references?
Even if you like what you hear from the pet sitter and from her references, it's important to have the prospective pet sitter come to your home to meet your pet before actually hiring her for a pet-sitting job. Watch how she interacts with your pet—does your pet seem comfortable with the person? If this visit goes well, start by hiring the pet sitter to care for your pet during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. That way, you can work out any problems before leaving your beloved pet in the pet sitter's care for longer periods. Helping the pet sitter and your pet
Of course, even the most trustworthy, experienced pet sitter will have trouble if you haven't also kept your end of the bargain.
Here are your responsibilities:
Make reservations with your pet sitter early, especially during holidays.
Ensure your pet is well socialized and allows strangers to handle him.
Affix current identification tags to your pet's collar.
Maintain current vaccinations for your pet.
Leave clear instructions detailing specific pet-care responsibilities and emergency contact information, including how to reach you and your veterinarian.
Leave pet food and supplies in one place.
Buy extra pet supplies in case you're away longer than planned.
Leave a key with a trustworthy neighbor as a backup, and give him and your pet sitter each other's phone numbers.
Be sure those extra keys work before giving them out.
Show the pet sitter your home's important safety features such as the circuit breaker and security system.
Finally, have a safe and fun trip. And remember to bring your pet sitter's phone number in case your plans change—or you just want to find out how Fluffy and Fido are doing.
Humane Society of the United States
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Choosing a Dog Trainer
Too many dogs are given up after their normal, easily modifiable behaviors are allowed to become problems.
But it doesn't have to be this way. To prevent your dog from becoming a sad statistic, take your dog—and your family—to a professional dog training class. A good training class is a fun, social activity that helps your dog become a well-behaved, safe, and valued family member. This information will help you find the dog trainer and class environment that best fits your budget and needs.
Why training is a necessity
Whether you are intentionally teaching him or not, your canine friend is always learning—and this is true not just for puppies but also for older, adult dogs. If you do not teach your pet your rules, he will invent his own. Training allows caregivers to safely and humanely control their dog's behavior. Positive training enhances the bond between dog and owner, and helps ensure that your dog will respond happily to your instructions.
What to look for in a trainer
It's essential that the dog trainer you select uses humane training techniques that encourage appropriate behavior through such positive reinforcement as food, attention, play, or praise. Look for a trainer who ignores undesirable responses or withholds rewards until the dog behaves appropriately. Training techniques should never involve yelling, choking, shaking the scruff, tugging on the leash, alpha rolling (forcing the dog onto his back), or other actions that frighten or inflict pain.
Where to find a trainer
A recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society, boarding kennel, or groomer is a good place to start. You can also search online or check the Yellow Pages under "Pet Training." Don't assume that a trainer's membership in a dog trainer association qualifies him as a suitable instructor: Not all associations' membership criteria will meet your expectations. Also, because no government agency regulates or licenses trainers, it's that much more important to investigate their qualifications before enrolling in a class. Find out how many years of experience they have, how they were educated, and what training methods they use. Ask prospective trainers for several references from clients who completed the classes.
Which class format is best?
In group classes, dogs learn to interact with other dogs, accept handling by other people, and respond to their owners despite distractions. Owners learn by observing other people interacting with their dogs and benefit from the camaraderie. Self-help training, private lessons, and dog-only lessons that exclude the owner do not provide these important advantages. Another disadvantage of dog-only lessons is that the dog may respond well for the trainer but may not transfer what she has learned to you and your family.When possible, all family members should participate in the dog's training. By learning to communicate humanely and effectively with their canine friend, they will develop bonds that will form the basis of the entire relationship.
Group classes
Ask the trainer whether you can observe a class in session before signing up.
Watch for the following:Is class size limited to allow for individual attention?
Are there separate classes for puppies and adult dogs?
Are there different class levels (for example, beginner, intermediate, and advanced)?
Are training equipment and methods humane?
Does the trainer use a variety of methods to meet dogs' individual needs?
Is proof of vaccination required?
Are the students, both human and canine, enjoying themselves?
Are dogs and owners actively encouraged?
Is praise given frequently?Are voice commands given in upbeat tones?
Are lesson handouts available?
Is information available on how dogs learn, basic grooming, problem solving, and related topics?
The cost of a trainer
Training costs vary, depending on where you live and the type of instruction you want. Private lessons are usually priced per session; many group lessons are priced for several weeks of sessions. Some animal shelters offer subsidized training programs; the price of several weeks of sessions may depend on whether you adopted your dog from that shelter and the number of class sessions it provides.
The best age for training
Although "puppyhood" is the best time to train and socialize dogs, older dogs can learn new tricks, too. In fact, dogs of all ages can benefit from training. Dogs between 8 and 16 weeks of age should be enrolled in puppy classes. Regular classes are appropriate for dogs 6 months or older.
Before you go
When you have selected a training program:Have your dog examined by your veterinarian to ensure your pet is healthy, free from parasites, and up-to-date on vaccinations.Don't feed your dog a large meal before class because many trainers rely on food treats to encourage or reward desired behavior.Bring the training equipment recommended by the trainer.Practice between classes with brief lessons that end on a positive note.By enrolling and actively participating in a dog training class, you will help your dog become not just a well-behaved member of your family, but also a safer member of your community.
For more information on choosing a dog trainer, consult the Association of Pet Dog Trainers* at 150 Executive Center Drive, Box 35, Greenville, SC 29615; call 800-PET-DOGS or visit them online at www.apdt.com.
information available from HSUS
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Snow Babies
Dogs love snow... ok, let me re phrase that. Big dogs love snow. Little dogs, far too often, think snow is just a dirty trick. But, really, think about it from your little dogs perspective. Their chest is inches from the ground (and in my dog Morocco's case his chest touches even the freshly mowed grass), so going outside in the cold icy snow is more than just wet feet!
If your little dog is having issues going potty in the snow, consider getting a small patch of artificial grass to place on the ground, near their favorite potty spot. It will keep them on the routine of going to the bathroom outside, but it will allow for drier conditions, making it more comfortable to be outside.
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