Monday, December 7, 2009

Do our Dogs Need to Wear Coats?



We get this questions a lot... dogs have their own coats right? So why on earth do they need to wear a top coat?

The answer lies with you...Our dogs are indoor dogs. They sleep in our beds, sun bath on the kitchen floor and lay by the fire. Since we have acclimated our dogs to the indoor thermostat its fair to say they have lost some of their adaptability to the elements. By the time you need a hat and gloves its time for Fido to get a coat.

Now, what type of coat? Yes, my dogs are true fashion-istas but were are taking about practicality here, not fashion. The coat needs to be easy to get on and off, no leg holes please. Its needs to cover their chore/chest. It needs to fit snugly and be secured with clips or Velcro. The outer shell should be water proof with a fleece lining for comfort. It should be machine washable and have a bit of reflective aspect to it too.

Be aware there are boy coats and girl coats, for anatomical reasons... no one wants Buddy to put on a girl coat only to wee on the coat when he goes outside!

Where do you get a dog coat? Best is at a local store. Take your dog in with you, try it on. PetStop in Sehome Village and Bow Wow and Woofs in Blaine are my favorite. Good selection of top quality coats. Your dogs coat should last a lifetime, so expect to pay $40 to $80 for it, depending on their size. For jumbo dogs check out NeoDogWare.com a local company who caters to giant breeds.

So... remember when you find yourself reaching for a bit more than your own coat, Fido has needs too.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Role Reversal in Puppies, Appropriate Play


The most common behavioral questions we get, in regards to puppies, is about proper socialization. Why do some puppies grow up to love all dogs for thier whole life and some only until they reach around 9 to 10 months then far too often become a jerk to other dogs?

The answer lies in role reversal.

Puppies learn role reversal as soon as they begin to play, at about 2 to 3 weeks of age. They learn it with their brothers and sisters in their litter. They continue to learn it until well into their 7th to 8th month of adolescence. Role Reversal is the act of a puppy learning who they are in this big world. They learn sometimes they can be the boss of the other pups and sometimes the other pups are the boss of them. Sometimes pup #1 sits on pup#2 head and sometime its the other way around! You see, puppies do not know who they are yet, they do not know their role in the pack. They rely on other puppies to tell them. They try different roles out. With back and forth play they learn how to let the other dog gain the upper hand and allow themselves to be put in their place as well as learn what its like to be the more assertive one. This builds their confidence and they become very predictable dogs.
Without role reversal your pup never learns how to give and take when it comes to play.

Far too common, we get the call " Well, no, my puppy did not play with other puppies his own age but we did take him to the dog park everyday and he played with tons of dogs"

The problem with this is that the pup never earned role reversal. Adult dogs already know who they are. Strong/assertive? Calm/Submissive? A bully? A cheerleader? A follower? A leader? and the pup was never allowed to find out who he was... since everyone else only told him who he was not!

When puppies primarily play with adult dogs who are secure in who they are, then the pup never gets the chance to try on "different hats" their hat is already chose for them by the adult dogs. This makes for a VERY low confident dog. And at 9 to 10 months that shows its ugly head as a bully. The call is all too common. "we used to go to the dog park all the time, but now he gets into scuffles with the other dogs. He is great with some dogs, but we never know when he will go off on another dog"

What to do?
If you have a pup less than 20 weeks of age, its an easy fix. Time consuming? yes... but simple. Your pup should be playing with only other pups ages 9 week to 6 months. At least 80% of the dogs in his life should be puppies. No exceptions. don't bother to tell me you don't know any other puppies, FIND THEM. Your pup is already developmentally behind, you need to find at least 5 new pups a week. Size means nothing, its all about age.
Trade numbers in your puppy kindergarten class, send an email to all your friends asking if they know anyone with a puppy.... this is your dogs life we are talking about. You need to take initiative.
*remember your pup CANNOT be exposed to other pups in which you don't know their health history. Since your pup is not fully vaccinated you need to ask about the other pups health history. Get proof they are as current as they can be on vaccines.

Is your dog older than 6 months but less than 10 months? Its gets more tricky now. Now you need to find pups ages 5 months to 8 months. A harder group to find, but still very doable. STOP going to the dog park where its any ones guess who will be showing up. Make sure the pups you set up play dates with are social dogs already going to obedience school in a reward based class. You do not want to make things worse by your dog learning bad behaviors from someone else.

Is your dog older than 10months? Best thing now is to realize your dogs personality is set, we have to respect who they are and a -happy go lucky to everyone kind of dog- is not it... Find dogs your dogs play really well with, set up play dates with those dogs. Trade dog care back and forth with those dogs. Have play dates at your house or theirs.
Stop putting your dog in a situations where they may show inappropriate behavior. Get into a reward based class to continue learning good manners. Your dog is still capable of learning how to behave, but not capable of changing their personality.

Know its all about prevention. You have the ability to make your dog a fabulous dog. But remember... good dogs do not happen by accident!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Winter Welcomes New Day Care Dogs

The chill is in the air... but for these pups who have been on our waiting list, we offer a warm welcome! We welcome some new canine buddies this Fall/winter, all of these dogs have successfully passed their temperament evaluation and we hope to see them often

Oliver W. A happy-go-lucky schnauzer
Otis J. Welcome back Buddy! We missed ya
Kayden H. Brace yourself...a whole lotta dog here
Monk R. Sweet and silly shepherd
Scooter E. Lovable and social Princess
Bella L. Miss Wiggle Doodle herself
Jane Fisher Bouncy does not begin to describe this Havanese
Tasha R Even for an aussie she has a lot of energy
Stella L So lovable and so smart
Ginger C Adorable beagle with energy to boot
Remy C an awesome Min Pin and good kisser
Daisy L Little Miss Chi finally was big enough
Bailey R Mr Fluffer Nutter himself
Chloe H Sweet Bichon who loves her brother
Summie A Fast and Friendly, this lab is great
Samson G A great new puppy who is all about the fun
Little Chef A Pom-Chi who can't wait to show us what he is all about

We can't wait to show them all why TAW is the best!

Monday, October 26, 2009

Whatcom Humane Soceity Gala, Best Year Ever!


We had a spectacular time at the WHS Gala on Saturday. It was the most fun, best auction items, great food that there has ever been! Everyone raised over $105K for the animals. So happy to see the WHS staff there, and the organization of the event was impeccable. Kudos WHS for putting on a spectacular event. Lots of people wore costumes, which we love, of course.


Jason and I won some fabulous items in the silent and live auction. Lost horribly to Kim Barron (who won a painting fair and square)


Glad to see the community stepped up and supported WHS, with their leader Laura Clark, there is nothing they can't do!

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Notorious Chunky B


As many of you know, Jason and I volunteer and foster dogs for Furbaby Rescue. FBR is a small rescue dedicated to rescuing, fostering and placing small breed dogs. Jason and I tend to care for the Chihuahua's that come into the organization. We have 4 Chi and I adore the breed overall. Last week we got a call from Laura Clark, she is the executive director for the Whatcom Humane Society. A morbidly obese Chihuahua came into the shelter, surrendered by his owner. Now, we are not talking chubby here.... we all agree he should weigh 5 to 6 lbs, but he weighs 12 lbs. He needs to loose more than half his body weight. He would be over 450 lbs if he were a man... He is so fat he has a triple chin. His liver enzymes were so high the shelter could not justify putting him up for adoption, as he would need extreme care to not only get the weight off but to take care of all his medical needs. His teeth were abscessed, and he had several large fistulas (oral abscesses leading up to his sinus') He had so much infection in his sinus that he could not pass air thru his nose. His tongue had blue tinge to it, due to the perpetual lack of oxygen. The shelter staff clearly adored this dog, they are such wonderful people but are limited in their resources and do the best they can. They called FBR, and we took him in.

Even though he must of felt horrible, he settled right into my clan. He happily slept in his crate, he used our doggie door after watching Percy use it. Never an accident in the house. He accepts my dogs and happily meets new people. He is a true joy.

He has now had 9 teeth pulled, his oral abscesses are healing and he is beginning to be able to breathe thru his nose again. He has lost a full pound. Our daily walks take us to Cornwall Park, my dogs leading the way, with Chunky B close behind. We bring a special doggie stroller for when he is too tired to walk back.

As I write this, he sits on my lap... grunting and snoring so loudly I have to set him down and go to the other room to answer the phone.

In a few weeks his mouth and sinus' will be healed, in a few months he will be a normal weight.

Neglect put this wonderful dog close to deaths door. Had WHS not seen his potential, seen thru the fat, the infection, the high risk medical issues or had he ended up at another shelter that was not full of the caring and loving people like those fill the Whatcom Humane Society, he may not be here today.

Thank you WHS. Thank you for all that you do. Knowing that all animals deserve people like you, and we are a far better community by having you in it.

Chunky B send his love... and grunts

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Dog Days of Summer Festival 2009

If anyone made it thru the rain and wind to get to the Dogs Days of Summer Festival to benefit the Whatcom Humane Society this last Sunday... I commend you. We were there, wet, cold and my hair tied in knots from the wind. The Chihuahua's were moderately content, they had their sweaters, and big, fenced, outdoor area to run around in. Barking all day, as good Chihuahua's do!

We typically give away over 300 toys and prizes, but less than 100 found their way into happy puppy mouths, due to the low turnout. The weather was not on our side.

We had to pack it in early due to the wind, as tents were breaking and flying away. After a tent ended up in the lake and many lifted up off the ground, alas it was time to head home.

We did not get to show off at our Doggie Circus or Rally O show, but we hope to be able to next year.

Biggest disappointment was the lost revenue for the Whatcom Humane Society. Although not a big money maker, more of a community event, they still can make enough to keep the shelter animals happy if even for a short while.

I encourage you to send an extra monetary gift their way this month. On behalf of the Dogs Days of Summer...Toto needs it.

Friday, August 21, 2009

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO NOT COME WHEN CALLED

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO NOT COME WHEN CALLED



Call your dog to you, then give him a bath. Or clip his nails, your choice; just be sure to pick the one he really, really hates.

Take your dog someplace he loves to go, like the park, or to play with a friend’s dog. Wait until he’s really having fun, then call him to you. Immediately load him in the car and drive him home.

This one works especially well for small dogs: Call your dog to you, then swoop down on him with both arms, making sure to look as frightening as possible as you pick him up. Now, that might not stop him from coming to you altogether, but it pretty much guarantees that he’ll stop just out of arm’s reach.

Call your dog, then immediately put him away somewhere (crate, behind a gate) and leave, preferably for a full day. A great choice for dogs who hate to be left alone.

Call your dog and tell him it's time for his walk - then take a phone call. Call him back again, then forget your keys, call him back when you've found them... to put on your shoes...

If your dog somehow slips out the front door or maybe through your back gate, be sure to yell at him when he comes back home or when you catch him.

Call your dog to come and do nothing. No pet, no praise… nothing

Bizzy Pee'd right in front of me!

Hey Angi,
HELP! Bizzy (my female Schipperke) just pee'd right in front of me... not sure what to do. Juno, my other female Schipperke and Jolly, my male Chihuahua were on the floor. Juno was trying to get Jolly to play, but of course he wanted nothing to do with her and was getting pretty vocal about it, telling her to back off. Then all of a sudden Bizzy comes over and pee's right in front of us all! I jumped up and told her NO, and took her outside. She JUST had a medical work up last week including a urinalysis, so I know its not an infection. What the heck to do?

Deb, Juno, Bizzy and Jolly


Oh Deb... I told you to come to my Body Language Seminar last month!
What I suspect was going on was a calming signal, from Bizzzy directed towards Juno and Jolly. Juno was bugging Jolly so Bizzy (as the more assertive female in the group) offered a overt calming signal (urinating in their presence) to settle and calm the two of them. Remember dogs offer calming signals to not only calm themselves but to calm the others around them. By urinating she appeased the situation of Juno getting in Jolly's face. Your response of telling her NO, did not help the situation, but don't beat yourself up about it... it was a typical response. But do know that black dogs on average use more overt calming signals than other dogs. Black dogs realize certain body signals cannot be seen as easily by other dogs (by trial and error), so they use very obvious ones, more than other dogs.
Best thing to do next time is to anticipate a reaction from Bizzy if the other dogs were getting out of hand. Offer a calming signal yourself first, like body block and head turn to appease the situation before distracting the dogs to move onto other things. Bizzy will see you have taken care of the situation and will see no need for it to escalate making her need to address it.

Oh, and I am saving you a spot when we do the seminar again on 9/25!

Thursday, August 20, 2009

New Dog Show on Animal Planet

Like many of you, I enjoy Animal Planet. This Discovery Channel Network has done some amazing work to help educate us all on animals.
Even though have been training dogs for over 20 years, I still love watching dog training shows. Any good trainer will tell you there are a ba-zillion ways to train a dog and we are all (hopefully) open to new ideas and enjoy trying new techniques. Like other dog trainers, I like to tivo the dog training shows so when first understanding the behavioral problem I can pause it to announce (to my dogs, watching with me) what I would do if I was training that dog... In shows like Its Me or The Dog, I love how similar we are, in our thoughts and methods.

I stumbled upon a new dog show called In the Dog House... just few minutes of this show and I was appalled! The trainer (I never caught his name) set dog training back about 40 years! Using all old school methods of intimidation and fear. Choke chains, pinch collars, alpha rolls... you name it, this punk was gonna show these dogs who was boss! Just like Cesar Millan... he had it all wrong.
I have said it before... if dog training was like pizza these guys are missing about 5 slices. Just not seeing the whole picture.
YES you must be a leader to your dog. YES you need to be calm and structured for your dog.
YES you need show you dog what behaviors are not acceptable... however you don't get there by using fear and intimidation!
I can MAKE a dog do anything I want... but what does that do for my relationship with that dog? I want the dog to do what I want him to do out of respect for the pack and trust in me! You cannot trust what you fear.
These old school trainers think being a leader or alpha to the dogs means they must dominate them, be assertive and hold a level of fear to the dog. If they truly understood pack behavior they would understand that the "in your face" running around and push everyone around dog is the middle of the road adolescent dog, NOT the alpha... she is sitting off to the side, overseeing. She is the keeper of the stuff, the maker of the rules. She uses her body to block and prevent rather than react to a situation. She rewards for the right behavior and redirects the wrong behavior. Old school training methods simply teach dogs that people are something to be feared and not something to be trusted. But don't get me wrong, no one every said these methods don't work, they do... but we now know AT WHAT COST!
These old school dog trainers are still using what was taught years and years ago. This is how any one who has been training dogs for over 10 years was taught. Yes, when I went to school to train dogs I too learned all the pop and jerk methods. I thought that was the way it was. Over 15 years ago, I opened my eyes to how it should be. To this day...I have NEVER met a trainer who used to teach with old school corrective training that now teaches with reward based dog training that has ever gone back. We see how much more relaxed the dogs are, how more open they are to learning. It improves the relationship with our dogs and makes us more reliable and predictable for our dogs. It teaches them in this crazy world, with lots of scary things we are the one they can trust above all others. It creates a bond that can't be broken.

So join me, in writing an email to Animal Planet, tell them to pull the show In the Dog House. Our dog deserve better.

Monday, August 10, 2009

Dear Tails,
Our new puppy is a blast, thanks for getting him into the Kindergarten Class... but we had a question. On our walks he was wanting to eat everything he could find! In class we are learning how to walk well on a leash so that is going fine now, but it made us wonder "what plants are bad for him to eat"? Any we should be real wary of?

Thanks
Barb and Rocket


Barb and Rocket,
Thanks for your post. Yes... in general there are lots of pants that are toxic to animals, so its best to keep Rocket from picking up anything by teaching him to heel. I am glad his walking politely on a leash is gong well, but here is a list of the most common toxic plants for pets.

Poisonous Plants

While plants add a touch of color and fragrance to our daily lives they also inject an element of danger into the lives of our pets. More than 700 plants have been identified as producing physiologically active or toxic substances in sufficient amounts to cause harmful effects in animals. Poisonous plants produce a variety of toxic substances and cause reactions ranging from mild nausea to death. Certain animal species may have a peculiar vulnerability to a potentially poisonous plant.
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction.
This may not represent a complete list of all poisonous plants. Also, your pet may have a sensitivity or allergy to a plant that is not on the list, resulting in toxicity. Always contact your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have ingested a poisonous plant.


PLANT
TOXIC PARTS
PLANT TYPE

Aconite
roots, foliage, seeds
garden flower

Apple
seeds
cultivated tree

Arrowgrasses
leaves
marsh plants

Atropa belladonna
entire plant esp. seeds, roots
garden herb

Autumn Crocus
entire plant
garden flower

Azaleas
entire plant
cultivated & wild shrub

Baneberry
berries, roots
wildflower

Bird-of-Paradise
pods
garden flower

Black locust
entire plant esp. bark, shoots
tree

Bloodroot
entire plant esp. stem, roots
wildflower, herb

Box
entire plant esp. leaves
ornamental shrub

Buckeye
sprouts, nuts, seeds
tree

Buttercup
entire plant esp. leaves
wildflower, garden herb

Caladium
entire plant
house plant

Carolina jessamine
flowers, leaves
ornamental plant

Castor bean
entire plant esp. beans
house plant

Chinaberry tree
berries
tree

Chockcherries
leaves, cherries, pit
wild shrub

Christmas berry
leaves
shrub

Christmas Rose
rootstock, leaves
garden flower

Common privet
leaves, berries
ornamental shrub

Corn cockle
seeds
wildflower, weed

Cowbane
entire plant esp. roots
wildflower, herb

Cow cockle
seeds
wildflower, weed

Cowslip
entire plant esp. leaves, stem
wildflower, herb

Daffodil
bulbs
garden flower

Daphne
bark, berries, leaves
ornamental shrub

Day lily
entire plant is toxic to cats
garden & wildflower

Death Camas
leaves, stems, seeds, flowers
field herb

Delphinium (Larkspur)
entire plant esp. sprouts
wildflower

Dumbcane
entire plant
house plant

Dutchman's breeches
roots, foliage
wild & garden flower

Easter lily
entire plant is toxic to cats
flowering house plant

Elderberry
leaves, bark, roots, buds
tree

Elephant's ear
entire plant
house plant

English Ivy
entire plant esp. leaves, berries
ornamental vine

European Bittersweet
entire plant esp. berries
vine

False Flax
seeds
wild herb

False hellebore
roots, leaves, seeds
ornamental flower

Fan weed
seeds
wildflower, herb

Field peppergrass
seeds
wildflower, herb

Flax
seedpods
wildflower, herb

Foxglove
leaves
wild & garden flower

Holly
berries
shrub

Horsechestnut
nuts, sprouts
tree

Horse nettle
entire plant esp. berries
wildflower, herb

Hyacinth
bulbs
wild & house plant

Iris
leaves, roots
wild & garden flower

Jack-in-the-pulpit
entire plant esp. roots, leaves
wildflower

Jatropha
seeds
tree, shrub

Jerusalem Cherry
unripe fruit, foliage
ornamental plant

Jimsonweed
entire plant esp. seeds
field plant

Laburum
seeds, pods, flowers
ornamental plant

Lantana
foliage
house plant

Larkspur
young plants
wildflower

Laurels
leaves
shrub

Lily of the valley
leaves, flowers
garden & wildflower

Lupines
seeds, pods
shrub

Manchineel Tree
sap, fruit
tree

Matrimony vine
leaves, shoots
ornamental vine

Mayapple
unripe fruit, roots, foliage
wildflower

Milk vetch
entire plant
wildflower

Mistletoe
berries
house plant

Monkshood
entire plant esp. roots, seeds
wildflower

Moonseed
fruit, roots
vine

Morning glory
seeds, roots
wildflower

Mountain mahogany
leaves
shrub

Mustards
seeds
wildflower

Narcissus
bulbs
garden flower

Nicotiana
leaves
garden flower

Nightshade
leaves, berries
wildflower, vine

Oaks
shoots, leaves
tree

Oleander
leaves
ornamental shrub

Philodendrons
entire plant
house plant

Pokeweed
roots, seeds, berries
field plant

Poinsettia
leaves, stem, flowers
house plant

Poison hemlock
leaves, stem, fruit
field plant

Potato
shoots, sprouts
garden plant

Rattle box
entire plant
wildflower

Rhododendron
leaves
ornamental shrub

Rhubarb
leaves
garden plant

Rosary pea
seeds
house plant

Sago palm
entire plant esp seeds
ornamental plant

Skunk cabbage
entire plant esp roots, leaves
marsh plant

Smartweeds
sap
wildflower

Snow-on-the-mountain
sap
field plant

Sorghum
leaves
grass

Star of Bethlehem
entire plant
wildflower

Velvet grass
leaves
grass

Wild black cherry
leaves, pits
tree

Wild radish
seeds
wildflower

Wisteria
pods, seeds
ornamental plant

Woody aster
entire plant
wildflower

Yellow jessamine
entire plant
ornamental vine

Yellow oleander
entire plant esp. leaves
garden plant

Yellow pine flax
entire plant esp. seedpods
wildflower

Yew
bark, leaves, seeds
ornamental tree

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Special WHS Meeting

CALLING ALL MEMBERS! If you are a member of the Whatcom Humane Society, we need you to hear your voice. The current Board of Directors needs to be voted in by the membership and we need your vote to make it count. PLEASE attend the meeting on 8/10, but if you can't just call us at Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387 and we can arrange a proxy vote for you.



WHATCOM HUMANE SOCIETY Special Membership Meeting Notice

Pursuant to the Bylaws of the Whatcom Humane Society (WHS), ten WHS members have requested a special meeting of WHS membership.

The Board has scheduled a meeting of the membership for August 10, 2009 at 6 p.m. at the Building Industry Association building at 1650 Baker Creek Place in Bellingham.

The petitioners have requested the meeting to “make legal the current Board.”

The Board will propose at this meeting that the membership ratify the current Board of Directors.
The Board will also consider whether it is appropriate for WHS to amend its Bylaws.

These items will be the only business to be conducted.

Monday, July 20, 2009

Canine Body Language

I really enjoy sharing information about body language and communication with dogs to people in our community. To help someone understand their dog and what their dog is desperately trying to tell them is what makes my job so amazing.
I have been training dogs for 20 years (wow... that really dates me, doesn't it) and like most trainers I specialize in what motives me the most. For me, that's communication. Whether that's Dog to Dog communication or Dog to Human Communication, its the exchange of voices and thoughts that I want to convey.
I believe dogs are sentient beings with feelings and emotions, and simply want us to understand their needs. The need to belong to a clear, consistant, predictable pack.
To get a family to finally understand what their new puppy has been telling them as the newest member of the pack, or a recent adoption dog trying to communicate his stress and fear, or a day care dog who learns how to play by observing the higher ranking dogs... for me, that's pure joy.
On Sunday 7/26 from 2 to 4pm, I am conducting a seminar on Canine Communication. Its a photographic and video guide to body language. I have been working on the seminar for weeks and weeks, getting just the right photo or video clip to convey all I want to share.
Lots of video of day care dogs and lots of photos over the years of training.
I hope you will join us and finally learn what Poochie has been trying to tell you for so long!

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Summer Time brings new dogs to day care

I love the summer... ya ya ya weather is great but I love seeing all the new dogs at day care. Everyone knows we have a waiting list to get in to our facility. I love and hate the wait list. I love it because I know we have set a precedence of high standards for day care and people will not settle for anything less than the best, I hate it because its never fun to turn a wonderful dog away who needs us.

Our wait list is usually 10 months long. Dogs get on the wait list all year long, but usually don't get in until end of spring and early summer. The nature of summer is change, so we have more movement on the wait list. Dogs move away, people take the summer off ect. On average we see 4 new dogs each week and can work them in on our call in list over the upcoming year, usually getting them in one to two times a week.

So this month we welcome:

Baxter D (a goofy and playful Golden Doodle)
Layla P (a sweet and gentle Great Dane)
Babe S (a young and rambuncious chocolate lab)
Oscar M (a happy and silly Dachshund)
Shaka L (a reserved and quiet German Shepherd)
Levi O (a young at heart wire hair Dachshund mix)
Mira G (a happy go lucky Yorki Mix)
Barley O ( A handsome and lovable Boxer Mix)
Ruby W ( a wild and wiggly yellow lab)
Lucy A (a sweet and snuggly cocker spaniel
Jack H (a gentle giant, big lug Anatolian Shepherd)
Owen O (a Young and adorable Bernese Mountain Dog)
Lola O (a energetic and goofy yellow lab)
Malcom W (a smart and sassy Papillion Mix)
Pablo M (an adorable and wiggly Yorki Poo)
Matilda G (a sweet yet slow moving English Bulldog)

Look for their bio soon on our who's who page as well as their name on your dogs report card!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Kudos to Whatcom Humane Society

Once a gain WHS will be having a fabulous dog event in Whatcom County. Very soon your dog will be asking to attend The Dog Days of Summer Event. This year on Sunday 9/6 at Lake Padden. We have been a part of the DD of S for 12 years, even before it was a WHS event!

But... to my kudos. As always WHS makes this a vegetarian event. As an animal welfare organization they realize it would be inappropriate to serve meat! To rescue pigs, cows and chickens during the day only to serve them on their menu at an event is odd to say the least.

As a vegan I commend them for their compassion towards all animals.

I am still VERY confused by other animals organizations who do serve meat at their events. even is they were not a vegetarian organization, it would still seem inappropriate to serve animals of any kind at an animal event.

I hope other organizations realize the impact they have to spread compassion for all animals, not just the once they rescue.

For more information, check out FOOD FOR THOUGHT CAMPAIGN

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Deat TAW, We are adopting a puppy next week. The breeder said that will leave one puppy left in the litter and they are good friends. We were not planning on two puppies, but its sad to think of separating them. She is puching us to take two. What to do?

New Pup in Fairhaven


Dear New Pup,
This is a question we get all too often...unfortunately. Having two dogs is great, everyone knows I am a multi-dog kind of girl, but two puppies? Not so much. We want your puppy to grow up as an independent, confident, secure dog. The likelihood of that happening with another pup in the household even close to his age is not a high possibility. Read over this hand out and you will see your "breeder" in a new light.

Two Puppies or One?
Are you getting a new dog and thinking of adopting two puppies at once? Would that double the pleasure? Could they be company for each other when you’re not home? Does it seem a good way to settle competition between human partners or the children in the family over who gets to play with the dog? More dogs, more to go around—does that plan work?
Not exactly. Expert breeders are careful about placing two puppies together in one home, because they know its very rare to find a family that understands how much work it is to raise both of them properly. A big red flag if our breeder or rescue group does not have a very lengthy discussion about the problems associated with two pups together. An improperly raised puppy can wind up homeless when the little and cute stage wears off and the defense drives begin to mature. Even dogs who don’t become aggressive can become too rowdy for the family, if they weren’t given the right training early.
Puppies are individuals and each puppy needs a good upbringing. This includes plenty of good experiences with people, places and things. It includes plenty of training and plenty of conditioning to being touched and handled by humans. Most of this work must be done with the puppy one-on-one, away from any other dogs in the household. How is this accomplished?
How to Raise Two Puppies Successfully
Skilled dog trainers and breeders often have the job of raising two puppies at once, so we know a lot about how to do this successfully. Here are some keys to success:
1. Make a careful choice. Dogs who get along as puppies will not necessarily get along at maturity. If you plan to keep your dogs together later (breeders and trainers often keep their dogs routinely separated, all or part of the time), it’s important to choose a pair with the best chance of a happy relationship as mature dogs. Most puppies get along, so that tells you nothing about how they will do later.
Getting dogs of opposite sex is usually the number one criteria for them to live safely and happily together later. In some breeds it’s especially dangerous to keep two of the same sex together, so do your homework if you’re considering that. Nature will take its course later, no matter how much you try to get them to love each other. They can love each other literally to the death, especially two females of certain breeds.
2. If you are going to keep the dogs together, plan to spay and neuter them, spaying the female before her first heat. If you want to breed dogs, they will need to live apart at least some of the time. Dogs need to be supervised during matings to prevent injuries, and females should not be bred on every cycle. Besides that, it’s quite possible your two dogs would turn out to be a poor genetic pairing. A male and female dog may be able to live freely together after maturity if both are altered. They actually have a richer social life that way than when used for breeding.
3. The pups need to be trained to rest calmly in separate crates while they are young. Putting two dogs in the same crate causes all kinds of problems, including excessive stress, fighting, and an over-dependence on each other. If there’s a mess, both are confined in it. Neither can get away from the other, and that’s just not natural for dogs. Plus, they very much need to learn while young that it is safe to be alone. And they need to bond with humans, which is hard for them to do when they spend all their time with another dog.
4. Each pup needs plenty of outings with humans without the other pup. This is an essential part of the pup developing an individual identity and the ability to function without the other one. It also gives the pup a desperately needed opportunity to bond with humans.
All dogs need to go out with you for socialization to people, places and things. The difference with two puppies is that you need to do double outings, ideally one per day for each puppy. This process is best continued at least until a year of age, longer for some dogs.
5. Each pup needs to be trained as an individual. When you have one puppy, a lot of training can happen around the house in the course of the day. Having two puppies complicates things. The outings will give you necessary opportunities to train the puppies away from each other. This means separate puppy classes, separate walks, etc.
Responsibility in dogs is an individual trait, not a group characteristic. A group of people is a mob and a group of dogs is a pack. A pack will do things you don’t want your dogs doing, because their instincts get over-stimulated and a different set of instincts kicks in.
Your best hope of controlling your dogs when they are together is to have an excellent foundation of training with each dog as an individual. Without that, the dogs can get hurt, other animals and people in the household can get hurt, and you can get hurt, too. You need to be able to control each dog with just your voice, not sticking your hands into a situation with teeth flashing.
Each dog needs to go to training class weekly without the other dog (many instructors wisely will not let family members train two dogs from the same family in the same class) and practice the class homework daily away from the other dog. As they become well-trained, you’ll also want to practice working them together so they also learn to obey with the pack influence.
Why It’s Hard
Because of the need to separate the dogs for training, for bonding time with humans, and to prevent them from becoming unable to function apart—it’s actually more than twice the work to raise two puppies at the same time. Things like housetraining can present huge challenges, too, since the scent of an accident from one puppy stimulates the other puppy to use the same spot.
If you get two males, housetraining problems can escalate as they mature. For best housetraining results, try to have males neutered by a year of age at the latest. Research shows it helps at any age, though, so if that time has passed, it’s still worth neutering for housetraining and for other reasons, such as prostate health in later life.
We don’t necessarily think in terms of “identity” with dogs, but it might help if we did. From human twins it has been learned that too much togetherness can make it difficult for each to develop a healthy sense of identity. Like human twins, dogs sometimes must be separated. If they have not learned to function comfortably as individuals, this can stress them at such times as illness or the death of one of the dogs. It is much kinder to the dogs to develop their separate identities right from the start.
Growing up together does not override normal dog instincts as they mature. You have probably noticed that not all human siblings can get along with each other as adults! The same is true of dogs. It’s nature’s way for those with leadership qualities to divide up and form separate packs that are small enough to live successfully on the food supplies in each pack’s home area.
In the wild when the pups grow up and two don’t find a natural pack order with each other, one leaves to join a new pack or form one. But in our homes, our dogs are not free to move out. When they grow up and these problems become apparent, some dogs are not easy to place in new homes. Too many people will only adopt puppies and won’t even consider adult dogs. It also hurts the dog’s chances of adoption to have a history of fighting and possibly scars.
It’s emotionally wrenching for us to give up one of the dogs we’ve grown to love, too. If you start with a male and a female rather than two dogs of the same sex, this probably will not happen. He can be top male and she can be top female, and they don’t have to compete head-to-head. It’s still a lot of work, but at maturity they are likely to get along. (That is, unless you have other dogs in the home—in which case, it’s going to be even harder to make it work bringing in two pups at once.)
One last concern when you get two pups together is that they will be the same age at the other end of life. It’s likely that you will lose them close together. That is extremely tough emotionally on the family. It’s much better to space your dog’s ages out if you can.
One is Loads of Fun!
It’s actually pretty easy to work around the reasons people think it would be better to get two pups than one. The loneliness thing? Dogs sleep about 14 hours a day, often more for puppies. Most of the time you’re gone to work is sack-out time for the pup, if you carefully condition the young one to feeling calm in a safe confinement area.
Being the only puppy in there, Lucky Pup gets to have goodies it wouldn’t be safe to leave with two competitive pups together, even if you need to use a small room or portable exercise pen with Little L at first because of the length of your work day.
Dog walker, pet sitter, day boarding with your veterinarian, friend or relative to watch your pup during the early months until pup can hold it all day? Less expensive for one pup than two, and more friends and relatives willing to do it!
Puppy vaccinations and medical bills? Vaccination costs and some other bills cut in half. Medical bills from one puppy catching something and passing it on to the other puppy cut even more, and ditto for medical costs to repair puppies damaging each other in rough play.
Outings? One puppy can go along where you go much more often, because one puppy is welcome in a lot of places that couldn’t handle two puppies. Like oh, say, your relatives’ house for a family party. So instead of taking one pup along to that and then thinking up someplace else to take the other pup that day beforehand when you’re rushed or afterward when you’re tired, you get it done in one. Plus the puppy is with you, not home with no potty access.
At spay/neuter time, you can easily schedule the procedure for the ideal time for this pup, not having to compromise in order to prevent an accidental breeding. You also won’t have to worry about separating the pups while each recovers from surgery. (Try doing that for two pups at once—it’s like running a hospital ward!)
Bonding with one puppy is easy-peasy when you do the right things. It happens naturally. It’s work, yes, but it fits most people’s lifestyles much more easily than trying to do the process with two. With good handling and training, your puppy naturally becomes a member of the family.
Enough puppy to go around? For maybe two weeks the kids might compete over who gets to play with the puppy. After that, the “new has worn off,” and taking care of the puppy becomes work! The more people in the family to share the labor, the better. Make sure everyone knows exactly what their part is, so people aren’t all hoping “someone else” will do it, and the dog goes untrained and uncared for.
Raising two puppies at the same time can be done, but...are you sure that’s what you want to do? When you do a great job with one puppy, you may be surprised just how much love and enjoyment comes in that one little (but possibly very fast-growing!) package.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Dear TAW,
We have not had a dog for many years... and now that we have kids we want to be sure that both the new dog and the kids do well with each other. Any tips before we find the right dog for us? Also... we have an older cat who is not too keen on the idea of a dog.


Congrats on educating yourself before bringing your new dog home!

Kids and pets are a wonderful combination -- if the children are educated about and prepared to have a pet. If children don't know how to properly treat a young animal, one or both may become seriously injured.
Be sure you are not bringing a new pet into your home to teach your children about “responsibility”. Be realistic of your expectations about what your children can actually be expected to do. More often than not, the pet care will fall on the parents shoulders.

Here are some tips on how to accustom your children and new pet to one another.

* Read easy-to-understand books about animal care, safe handling, and dog behavior to your children prior to getting a pet. Discuss what you have read with your children.

* Demonstrate how to properly handle a young pup or kitten by using a stuffed toy. Have your children practice with the toy animal.* Have a family meeting and set the ground rules for bringing up new pet. Children need to agree to follow these rules before and after new pet comes home.

* Make puppy or kitten his own little home-within-a-home as a safe haven. Involve children in setting-up this space. Pick a warm, comfortable location for puppy's crate. Enclose an area around it with an exercise pen , and line the area with bedding. Place pup's toys, bowls and bed in this area. For a new cat or kitten a 2nd bedroom or bathroom works well.

* Keep very young children and the new pet separated. ALWAYS supervise small children and pets. Be sure that older children are treating the pet appropriately.

* When pet’s and kids meet for the first time, it should be done in a calm manner. An adult can hold the pet while children slowly and quietly approach and allow the pup to smell the back of their loosely closed fist. Then they may gently pet him.

* Children must not be allowed to hurt or roughly handle a pet. Don’t allow them to pinch or poke the puppy/kitten or pull tail or ears. Be careful not to let them step on or drop the pet, or to squeeze him too tightly. And never tease or torment him.

* Never let a child hit a pet.

* Dogs and Cats may be afraid of squealing, yelling, running stomping children. Keep pet in his space when they are playing, or have them play quiet games when pet is out in the house.

* Children should not play chase with the puppy -- regardless of who is chasing whom. They should also refrain from playing dominance-establishing games, such as tug-of-war. Teach children not to stare, bark or growl at pup as part of their play as this may make puppy feel threatened.

* Teach children not to sneak up behind or startle pet, and, to leave him alone when he is eating, resting or sick.

* A curious and affectionate pet can unintentionally harm a baby. Pets can accidentally scratch or push your child down, be sure to discuss this with your children before it happens so they know the proper way to react.

* Do not make a child responsible for a pet’s care. When children are old enough, involve them in the animals daily care and overall training.

* Teach children to nurture, love and respect the pet; teach them by example.



Existing pets and the new dog:
If introductions are not properly done, the fur can fly if you already have another pet and add a new puppy to the household. Here are some steps to help your new and old pets adjust to one another.

* If you already have a pet that will not be able to accept or get along with a puppy, don't get a puppy.

* If there is more than one other pet at home, introduce the puppy to them one at a time, beginning with the alpha (head) dog or cat. Introduce them first through the crate, allowing them to see and smell each other. After a few days, let them meet without the crate between them, but have one person hold or restrain each animal.

* Hold introductions in a neutral space if possible, such as in the yard or family room.

* Don't do introductions at meal time and always separate when feeding.

* Each pet must have their own food and water bowls, bed, toys and crate or space. Show the existing pets that they will still get sufficient food, and still have their own possessions that the new puppy may not have.

* Keep the puppy and other pets separated until they accept each other's presence. ALWAYS supervise all contact until their relationship is reliable and they get along well.

* Put a small towel on each (new and existing) pets beds. Swap those towels every other day… but put existing pets towel UNDER new pets food bowls
(and visa versa) they can now experience each others scents and have a positive association with them (eating!)

* The adjustment will not happen overnight. Give the animals sufficient time to accept each other. Introductions should be done slowly, over a period of at least one to two weeks.

* Let the existing pets know the new member of the "pack" is here to stay and should be accepted. Let the puppy know he is the new kid on the block and should learn to become part of the pack.

* Give sufficient attention, first, to older pets, then to the new puppy.

* Owner should continue to support the existing hierarchy of the pack prior to pup's arrival, but don't show favoritism to one animal over another.

* When old and new pets can be together (supervised of course), play as a group and show them that they can have a good time as a larger pack.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

SHELTIE?

Its a long shot... but if you were the woman I was chatting with the other day about a sheltie for 4-h and training... give me a call!
Angi
Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387

New Family Member

Hi TAW!
You have helped us out so many times in the past... but its been years since we got a new pet. Whats the best way to keep us all on track?



The First Two Weeks With Your New Dog

Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Your new dog will be a wonderful companion for years to come. It is important to recognize that first impressions are often lasting ones. If you follow these simple guidelines, your dog’s transition into your home will be a piece of cake for you and your new best friend.

1. Teach your new dog the rules of your house from the beginning. In the words of Dr. Ian Dunbar, “If you want your dog to follow the rules of the house, by all means do not keep them a secret.” When your dog first gets home, he or she may be a little confused and unsure of the new living situation. Even though your home is undoubtedly more comfortable than the shelter, it is different, and different can be stressful. It is important to remember that dogs do not speak our language and will best understand your expectations through training and management. Training and management should begin the very moment your new dog arrives in your home.

Your instinct may be to give your new friend a few days to unwind and adjust before imposing rules and restrictions. Wile you may mean well, this time delaying training has the potential to be both frustrating and damaging. Right from the very first day, it is crucial to convey your expectations to the dog and to establish an errorless training system. If you do this, your dog can succeed in learning house rules right from the beginning. If you change the house rules a few days after your dog has arrived, he will not understand why things have changed. Your dog may have already formed new habits and will have a difficult time adjusting to yet another set of expectations. It is much more efficient to teach your dog everything you would like him of her to know from the outset.

2. Try not to overwhelm your new dog with too much activity during this initial adjustment period (individual dog’s adjustment period will vary). It is very exciting to adopt a new family member. Of course you want to introduce her to all of your friends and family and of course you want to take your new pal everywhere! All this excitement however could be exceptionally stressful for your dog. Please keep in mind that even in the best of shelters your dog’s world was probably limited to a handful of environments and activities. It is best for your dog to spend the first couple of weeks quietly settling in and getting to know you. Limit introductions to just a few visitors, and preferably only one or two at a time. If your dog has time to become familiar with you and your home surroundings, she will be more confident when setting out on adventures beyond your immediate neighborhood.

3. Keep your new dog confined or supervised at all times. This is the best way to keep your new friend (and house!) out of trouble when you are unable to monitor his actions. Your dog requires a dog-proof, safe place: a “doggie den” -the equivalent of a toddler’s playpen- where he can rest and chew appropriate items in your absence. There are many options for your “doggie den,” but a crate or small room in your house is ideal. However, you may also choose an outside kennel run. Initially you must be around to gently redirect your dog when he chooses an inappropriate activity. If you are vigilant about supervising our dog and showing him what you expect, your dog will learn to settle down quietly, to chew only appropriate chew toys and eventually to become trustworthy in your absence.

Remember: always try to build good habits, because good habits
are as hard to break as bad ones.



FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST TWO WEEKS WITH YOUR NEW DOG. PLEASE REMEMBER SOME DOGS WILL TAKE LONGER TO ADJUST SO BE PATIENT.

-DO, immediately show your dog to his/her appropriate toilet area.

-DO; take your dog to the designated toilet area once an hour, every hour, on leash (except overnight). Allow supervised free time only after he relieves himself in the appropriate area. If your dog does not go to the bathroom on one of these trips, confine him to his “doggie den” OR keep him on leash and supervised, until the next scheduled potty break.

-DO, confine your dog to a “doggie den” whenever you are physically (or mentally!) absent. Such as when you are at work, paying bills, talking on the phone, sleeping, etc.

-DO feed your dog out of a hollow Kong or other chew toy stuffed with kibble and snacks throughout the day, especially when she in her “doggie den” or when you are busy. Also use part of your dog’s daily ration while on walks, during training or when meeting new people.

-DO provide plenty of appropriate chew toys to keep your dog busy and prevent chewing “casualties” in your home and yard. Redirect any chewing “mistakes” by directing your dog to an acceptable alternative. This will also help establish an appropriate chewing habit for the lifetime of your dog.

-DO introduce your dog to new people and other pets gradually so as not to overwhelm him. Use kibble and treats to help form a positive association to new people. Be sure he has access to his “den” in case he needs a break from all the activity.

-DO enroll in a basic obedience class right away! This will help you to understand how to better communicate with your dog in a way she will understand.

-DO look for a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) that uses dog-friendly training methods. Contact APDT.com or call 1-800-PET-DOGS to find a trainer in your area.

-DON’T allow your dog free run of the entire house right away, or else your new friend may learn all sorts of bad habits. First take the time to teach him good habits.

-DON’T take your dog off-leash in public until you have successfully completed an obedience class.

-DON’T feed your dog out of a bowl; all food should come either out of a Kong or from somebody’s hand.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Dear Tails-A-Wagging, We just adopted a 4 year old dog from our local animal shelter. Our new dog is a sweet, but very afraid Border Collie Mix. She is afraid of men, bikes, loud kids... and many other things. She seems to really like other dogs though. We want to help her be the best dog she can be. What can we do for her? Also, does this mean she was abused by a man or kids?

Jennifer and Bob with "Beans"

Dear Jennifer,
Thanks for contacting us. Fear is an issue many people face with their dogs. We first need to realize Bean may not of had any abuse or harm done to her- as most people think is the reason for such fear. She certainly may have, but we see severe fear in simply under socialized dogs as well. Socialization occurred for her between her 4th week and 20th week of life. As an adult dog, we can no longer go back and change who she is but we can certainly habitualize her to new situations and make her life more enjoyable for her. We also may be able to use her love of other dogs are a gateway to accepting the things she fears. By using them as a reward. First though, lets discuss fear.


Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they’re afraid. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.

Causes Of Fearful Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful isn’t always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience. It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.

What You Can Do
Most fears won’t go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience. You may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques

Desensitization
Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that’s causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but
have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle. This process may take several days, weeks or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.

Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.

Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it’s impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.

When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. It’s important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.

Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.

What Not To Do
Don’t punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful. Don’t try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good. Also do not soothe your dog when they are in a fearful state. Its our nature to calm others with our voice and hands, like petting. But this can be conveyed to your dog as attention. We don't want her to learn that her behavior gets attention from you. If you do find yourself caught off guard and she is fearful, say nothing and turn and walk her away from the situation. Not just a few feet either, but far away from it, to the point where her body relaxes. This tell her 1) you are in control 2) he have things handled 3) give her time to recover.
Consider reapproaching the trigger, if she is calm.

Good Luck! The goal would to eventually get her into a group class, so we can work with her fears in a more controlled setting. But one on one training is where we need to start.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Will Work For Food. Feeding your Dog from Food Stuffed Toys

Will Work for Food …
By Angela Lenz, APDT, AHT
Tails-A-Wagging
www.tails-a-wagging.com

In nature, dogs had to work to get their food. They spent about 80 % of their day hunting for themselves and the rest of their pack. Hunting is physically and mentally stimulating as well as extremely challenging. The “hunt” becomes their job and when they succeeded at their job they received their “pay check“… a big full meal.

Now think of your dog… you give him some dry kibble in a bowl and its gone in about 2 minutes… not much of a job!
When we deprive our dogs of natural drives it can result in serious behavioral issues including: excessive barking, destructive chewing, digging, soiling in the house, aggression, and separation anxiety.

Giving your dog a job can prevent mischief at home
Prevention is always the best cure for any behavioral problems. The top reasons for inappropriate behavior in dogs is due to lack of mental stimulation and basic training. You can help you dog by:
1) enrolling them in a positive reward based obedience class
2) Feed them routinely from chew toys (like KONG) NO MORE FOOD BOWL
3) Once they master the KONG, begin to hide the toy to teach your dog to Hunt
(put him to work )

Toys like Kong’s or Puzzle type toys are made to be very durable. They can bounce unpredictably and this helps lure dogs in to a good game of chase. The toys are hollow, made for stuffing of your pets food and treats. Once your pet masters the art of the KONG, you can get very creative in hiding places.

Ideas for Stuffing:
Mix you dogs regular kibble with a bit of canned food, peanut butter, yogurt, or soft fruit like bananas. This is to help the food stick together. Then take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. Depending on your dogs dietary needs you can get pretty creative here! Then continue to stuff the KONG with the kibble mixture. This helps make the food more difficult to get out. Consider putting Greenie or other Chewy to act as a big reward when they get to the middle. As your dog succeed more and more in their “work” make the job more challenging:
* Pack the stuffing more tightly
* Wedge biscuit inside the cavity, under the rim to secure them
* FREEZE IT: Take your KONG and put a wad of peanut butter or other yummy soft treat in the smaller end. After stuffing Top off with a cap (wide end) of peanut butter or cream cheese fill with their favorite foods
* Cheese it: Turn the KONG upside down and put in a few cheese pieces and food nuggets. Microwave until cheese melts. Let cool to a safe temperature.

By feeding you dog from a chew toy is not only gives them a job but it teaches your dog to settle. And anyone who has raised a puppy KNOWS…. An extra 40 minutes of peace and quiet is a rarity
Very Important - No Dog Toy is Indestructible Supervise your dog’s use of Kong’s until you are confident they can be used safely without supervision.Clean and Inspect KONGS Frequently - Look for cracks, separations and/or missing pieces. Flex your dry Kong and inspect it from all angles. Loose pieces larger than a food nugget can be harmful if swallowed. Worn and damaged Kongs must be replaced immediately.Your Dog's Safety is Your Responsibility - If you think your dog has swallowed a toy fragment (for example: If the toy was damaged and you cannot find every piece larger than a food nugget), promptly inform your veterinarian.Sizing - Proper Kong sizing is determined by your dog’s size and chewing temperament. Size Up - If your dog destroys a Kong in a short period of time, try a larger Kong and/or a Black Kong. Red Kongs - Very Strong, Very Bouncy Black Kongs - Extra Hard, For Power Chewers Multiple dogs - Only provide Kongs sized for the largest and/or most tenacious chewer in the house. Jawrobics™ - Regular use of Kong will strengthen your dog’s jaw muscles. Eventually you may need to size up or switch to Black Kongs.PREVENTION IS THE BEST CURE FOR BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS.Important Behavioral Tips:1) Is your dog healthy? - Schedule an exam with your veterinarian to be sure. 2) A proper diet is important. - Consult your veterinarian, trainer or breeder.3) Enroll your dog in basic training classes. - Ask your veterinarian for a referral.4) Provide Kongs for physical and mental stimulation.Dogs Need KONGS! - Kongs are widely used for therapy and prevention of boredom, separation anxiety and other behavioral issues. Regular use of Kongs can also improve oral health. Their unpredictable bounce lures most dogs into a game of chase, catch and chew. The hollow center can be filled with food and treats. A dab of peanut butter spread around the inside is very effective. For more stuffing ideas, send for a complimentary copy of “Recipe for the Perfect Dog”.Put Your Dog To WORK! - Providing food and/or treat stuffed Kongs for your dogs can keep them contentedly busy (working) and out of trouble for long periods of time. Add more stuffed Kongs to increase their work time. Note - Adjust bowl feeding as necessary to maintain a healthy diet.

KONG RECIPES:

Frozen Jerky Pops:Peanut butterBouillonJerky Strips
WaterAppropriate KONG toySmear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your KONG toy. Fill with cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside KONG toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan
Aunt Jeannie's Archeology KONG (for advanced dogs) Fill your KONG toy (the larger the better!) in layers and pack as tightly as possible. LAYER ONE (deepest): KONG Stuff’N Beef and Liver treats. LAYER TWO: KONG Stuff’N Tail Mix or dry dog kibble, Cheerios, sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter, dried banana chips, apples and apricots. LAYER THREE: carrot sticks, turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening. - by Jean Donaldson

Percy’s Favorite
Fill small kong hole with Natural Balance Soft Dog Food. Put in a few yogurt coated kibble then a Greenie in the center and fill the remaining space with kibble/yogurt mixture. Cap off with more natural Balance and freeze. -By Angela Lenz

Frosty Paws
Mix one part yogurt, one part peanut butter and one part mashed bananas in a food processor, until creamy. First plug small hole of the kong, turn kong upside down and set into a small dish so the kong site upright. Fill kong to top with mixture. Let stand in freezer for 4 hours. Enjoy!

Ah, The Power of Cheese
Layer your dogs regular kibble (like lasagna) with tiny cubes of cheddar cheese. Kibble, Cheese, Kibble, Cheese as so on. Cover opening with one more tid bit of cheese. Pop into the microwave for 15 seconds. Allow the cheese to cool and harden again- now that is has coated the kibble. Enjoy!

Something Seems Fishy
Great Product: Whole Food Toppers, dehydrated wild caught salmon (available at PetStop) Loosely stuff Kong with salmon. Turn Kong upside down resting it in a cup. Fill with hot water. Let sit 10 minutes. The salmon will re-hydrate and fill all the spaces in the Kong... Enjoy

www.tails-a-wagging.com

A few updates on our Volunteering

We get lots of questions on wanting updates on the dogs we foster... so I thought this is a good place to do that. As many of you know Jason and I foster Chihuahuas and Chi mixes for Furbaby Rescue. Furbaby Rescue can take in upwards of 500 dogs each year. All are small dogs and many pure bred. FBR gets their dogs from other shelters and private surrenders. We are the Chihuahua reps for Whatcom County, so we usually are helping that breed. But FBR sees MANY different types of breeds of dogs. Right now we have a mama dog, Blossom, and her babies. The babies are all doing very well. We adore them. We hope you will go to www.furbabyrescue.com to see their photos and new movies showing the pups growing up!

Maybe you are interested in fostering a dog. The commitment is anywhere from a few weeks to a few months and its the most rewarding volunteer work you will ever do! Contact FBR for more information.

Angi is also on the board of directors for WeSNIP. The Whatcom Educational Spay & Neuter Impact Program. Basically we provide free and low cost spay and neuter services in Whatcom County. I wanted to invite you to join us on Saturday 5/23, a big group of us will be walking in the SKI TO SEA GRAND PARADE in support of WeSNIP. Dogs and kids are welcome. Our theme is "WeSNIP is out of this world" so everyone (including dogs) is encouraged to dress up in your best costume for the parade. Contact Angi if you want to join us!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

When should puppies start training?

Dear TAW, My puppy needs you! I have a 10 week old poodle mix that we got from a local rescue group. He is a doll, but we have issues with lots of puppy biting and potty training! He does not have all of his vaccines yet... do we wait on classes? Our vet says he can't be around other dogs yet...what to do? HELP!
Sue and Barkley in Bellingham

Dear Sue,
Thanks for the great question. We get this one a lot. Puppies can start learning basic cues as early as 4 weeks of age. But for group classes, with other puppies, we can start as early as 9 weeks of age. Your pups needs to of started their vaccine series of DHPP and Bordetella in order to start class. He won't be done with his vaccines yet, and that's OK. He will get a series of vaccines every 3 to 4 weeks until your pup is 14 to 16 weeks of age. Your veterinarian is absolutely right that your puppy cannot be exposed to dogs in which you don't know their health history. So you can't go on walks in the neighborhood, you can't go to the park and even when going to the vet hospital- be sure to carry him in and don't put him on the floor.(remember...sick dogs go to the vet!) The only real exception to this is Puppy Kindergarten Class where all the other pups are healthy and as up to date on vaccines as they can be. Your puppy is going through a developmental stage right now and there are things that he can learn now that he is not capable of learning later, so the longer you wait to start puppy classes the more you risk he is falling behind in his development. Our classes are for pups between the ages of 9 weeks to 18 weeks- older puppies cannot attend. Its crucial that puppy learns how to play properly and have good bite inhibition by 18 weeks of age, or you will be playing catch up forever. Some vets want to wait to do certain vaccines until the pup is older. This is something you need to discuss with your veterinarian. We feel that the risk of a dog not developing proper behaviors out ways the risk of disease since kindergarten is a controlled setting- but you need to have that conversation with your veterinarian.
Its also crucial that your pup be in a class with only other puppies (sorry dogs, we have other classes for you) and that there is off leash play time in each class. This is a controlled play time, not a free for all! Pups need to learn how to play with different sizes of puppies and follow other puppy cues.
For more information on this, go to our web site and download BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY book, for free.
Hope to see you soon at Kindergarten!

Welcome to the Dog Blog

We hope our dog blog will help other canine enthusiasts to learn more about dogs and dog behavior. We want to use our knowledge to share with our community.

Tails-A-Wagging has been caring for dogs in our community since 1997. 12 years of making dogs lives better... we have 5 dog trainers on staff to assist you with all your behavioral needs.

We also hope to use this blog to keep in touch with our community in regards to animal issues and events.
Thanks for visiting!
Angi and everyone at TAW