Dogs bark. It is part of their normal, and natural behavior. Dogs can bark for appropriate and good reasons, such as when strangers approach our house, they hear an odd noise, or they are herding sheep. Most of us want our dogs to be "watch dogs" and alert us to anything unusual. But dogs can also bark inappropriately. To control barking in our dogs, we first need to understand why they are barking.

 

Types of canine vocal communication

Dogs, as well as wolves use many types of vocalizations to communicate. This communication starts very early in life. Young puppies make a mewing-like sound when they are searching for food or warmth. Louder crying sounds are heard if the puppy is hurt or frustrated. As dogs get older, they make five main classes of sounds: howls, growls, grunts, whines, and barks. Each of these classes of sounds is used in different situations.

 

Howling is used as a means of long-range communication in many different circumstances. Howls are more often associated with wolves, but dogs howl too. Wolves often howl to signify territorial boundaries, locate other pack members, coordinate activities such as hunting, or attract other wolves for mating. Dogs may howl as a reaction to certain stimuli such as sirens.

 

Growling can occur in very different activities. It is used to threaten, warn, in defense, in aggression, and to show dominance. But growling is also used in play as well. By looking at the body posture we should be able to tell the difference. Growls during aggression are accompanied by a stare or snarl, and the growling dog often remains stationary. Play-growls occur in combination with a happy tail and a play bow to signal willingness to play. These dogs are often moving and jumping about to entice play.

 

Grunts in dogs are the equivalent of contented sighs in people. They can also be heard when dogs are greeting each other or people.

Whines or whimpers are short- or medium-range modes of communication. Dogs may whine when they greet each other, are showing submissiveness, are frustrated or in pain, to obtain attention, and sometimes in defense. Dogs generally whine more than wolves, perhaps because they use the whine more as an attention-seeking behavior, and are often rewarded for it. Think about it. The first sound you may hear from a new puppy is the whine at night when he finds himself alone. We often are guilty of unintentionally reinforcing this whining by giving the puppy the attention he wants.

 

Barking is another mode of communication that seems to be more common in dogs than other canine species. Again, this may be the result of human encouragement. Certain breeds have been bred to bark as part of their watchdog or herding duties. Barking is used to alert or warn others and defend a territory, to seek attention or play, to identify oneself to another dog, and as a response to boredom, excitement, being startled, lonely, anxious, or teased.

Why dogs bark

Alert/warning barks are the type of barks some owners encourage. They want their dog to alert them to the presence of a danger or suspicious stranger. Warning barks tend to become more rapid as the intruder approaches. Aggressive barks are low in pitch and may be combined with growls. We need to be able to distinguish warning barks from barks due to fear.

 

Attention-seeking barks are most often used by puppies to get you to focus your attention on them. They can become very insistent and hard to ignore, but ignore them we must.

 

Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game. Often a time-out is in order.

 

Self-identification barking is what you may be hearing when your dog seems to be answering other dogs he hears barking in the neighborhood. It is his way of saying, "I am over here."

 

Bored barkers simply need an outlet for their energy and a more stimulating environment.

 

Lonely/anxious barking occurs if your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. The barking can become self-reinforcing as he becomes more stimulated and anxious. Anxious barks tend to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. This type of barking can be especially annoying to your neighbors.

 

Startle barking occurs in response to an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement. As with an alert/warning bark, we need to be able to control this type of barking quickly.

 

As you can see, there are many reasons for barking and most barking is a normal behavior. There are some instances in which barking is considered pathological. This will be discussed later in the article.

 

Characteristics of a barker

Studies have been done to try to determine which dogs are more likely to be barkers. Although there was no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, there was a breed difference. Beagles, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more. That is not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred. Excessive barking can occur in purebred dogs as well as mixed breeds.

General principles for controlling undesirable barking

If we want to control barking, we need a dog who can obey us and relax. The dog needs to look to her owner for behavior clues. If we can call her, have her lie down (dogs do not bark as much when lying down) and stay, we are well on the way to solving a nuisance barking problem. In addition, there are some common principles we can use in modifying barking behavior.

 

First, in most cases shouting "No" is only going to make matters worse since the dog is thinking you are barking too (and is probably happy you joined in).

Be consistent. Pick a one-word command e.g., "Enough or Quiet" for the behavior you want and always use that word in the same tone of voice. Everyone in the household must use the same command and act identically.

Be patient with your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time, and you need to take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog, the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.

Reward the dog for good behavior. Positive reinforcement is much more powerful than punishment. Physical punishment will do nothing but make your dog fearful of you and break down the bond you wish to have with her. Food treats are fine to use as a reward at first. Often, picking a very special treat like small pieces of cooked chicken or hot dog will make the reward seem even better. As time goes on, you will not give a treat every time, sometimes just rewarding with a "Good Dog" and a pat on the dog's chest.

Do not hug your dog, talk soothingly, or otherwise play into your dog's barking. Your dog may then believe there really was something of which to be alarmed, afraid, or anxious. This reinforces her behavior and she will likely bark even more the next time.

 

Control the situation. As much as possible, set up situations to use as training. Practice in short, frequent sessions, generally 5-10 minutes each.

Do not be afraid to ask an expert. Animal trainers and behaviorists can help you. Having them witness your dog's barking episodes may give them valuable clues on helping you solve the barking problem.

Next, we will look at the different types of barkers and more specific ways to modify their behavior.

Alert/warning barkers

Dogs that bark at mail carriers, joggers running by the house, or cyclist on the street naturally have their barking reinforced. They see the mail carrier, they bark, and the mail carrier leaves. The dog thinks, "Boy, I'm good. My barking made that person leave." In modifying the dog's behavior, we need to overcome this reinforcement.

Sometimes, by just preventing the dog from seeing the intruding mail carrier, we can solve the problem. Often, however, we need to do more. First, we must make sure we are not rewarding the dog for any type of barking. If the dog barks when she wants to eat, and we feed her, we are rewarding vocalization. If we try to ignore the barking, but eventually cave-in and give attention, the dog learns that short barks will not do the trick, but excessive and extended barking will.

After the dog has alerted us to an "intruder," we need a way to signal to the dog after one or two barks that she was a good dog for warning us, but now we will take control. Often the command "Enough" will accomplish that goal.

Remember: Do not inadvertently reinforce barking by giving verbal or physical reassurance to a barking dog.

To teach "Enough," set up a situation in which your dog will bark, but not excessively; knock on the door, for instance. After one or two barks, stop knocking and make a sound or distraction that will get her to switch her attention to you. If she stops barking, immediately say "Enough" and reward her with a treat and praise. If she does not stop barking, put that delicious treat right in front of her nose. When she stops barking for a second or two say "Enough," wait a few more seconds and if she is quiet, give her the treat and praise. Timing is critical – she must be quiet when you give her the treat or she will think she is being rewarded for continuing to bark. Be sure to say "Enough" when she is quiet, not when she is barking. Later, as she associates "Enough" with being quiet, you can use it as a command to stop barking.

Fear barkers

Some dogs may start with an alert or warning bark, but then progress to a bark that is associated with fear. One of the more common examples of this is dogs that bark at approaching strangers.

If your dog is barking out of fear of people, first he must learn to be obedient, defer to you for his behavior cues, and relax. Then you can start setting up situations in which people approach from far off, and as your dog remains relaxed, give him treats. Slowly (over days and weeks) have people approach him only to the point where he remains relaxed and you can reward him. As people come even closer, have them throw treats his way so he starts associating people with good things happening. While this controlled training is going on, it is best to not put him in situations in which you do not have control, e.g., walking down a busy street.

Do not encourage your dog to bark at people. You may set a bad habit in motion and he may become suspicious and even fearful of people. Chances are, he will bark at odd situations and strangers without you telling him to.

 

Attention-seeking barkers

Young puppies, as well as adults soon learn that barking will incite attention from us. The problem is that dogs will be happy with any attention they receive, be it negative or positive. A stern "No" from you is still attention, so the dog got what she wanted and you reinforced the behavior. It is best to just ignore this type of barking, as hard as that may be.

Sometimes, the use of a remote correction is helpful in controlling this type of barking. Coins in an empty soda can, foghorns, or other noisemakers can be used to startle the dog while she is barking. When she is startled, she stops barking, and at that point, you can give her a substitute for barking – a toy or  a walk. Just make sure she stops barking before you give the substitute or the dog will perceive it as a reward for barking.

Play/excitement barkers

If your dog barks excessively during play, it is best to let her calm down and slow down the game. If she continues to bark, stop playing until she has settled down.

 

Self-identification barkers

This type of barking is quite instinctive and can sometimes be difficult to control, especially in a household of multiple dogs. Often there is an instigator dog and all other dogs join in. This type of barking may be controlled using a similar approach to alert/warning barks, i.e., obedience and relaxation methods with a substitute behavior offered, like playing with a toy.

 

Bored barkers

Dogs who bark when they are bored may be similar to dogs seeking attention or those that are lonely. Dogs who are bored need something to do besides barking. We need to give them a more stimulating environment and usually a lot more exercise. A tired dog is less likely to be bored. Toys such as Kongs and Buster Cubes that can be filled with treats can get your dog's brain, as well as his body, working.

Lonely/anxious barkers

Dogs who bark when they are alone may be showing a symptom of their separation anxiety. As we mentioned, these dogs are in the midst of a vicious circle – the more lonely they are, the more they bark, the more upset they get, the more they bark, the barking gets them more upset and they bark more – and the cycle continues.

We need to work with the dog on the underlying behavior of separation anxiety. We can do this several ways. As in alert/warning barking, we need to be able to teach the dog simple obedience and how to relax. Then we can work on the problem of the separation anxiety.

We can start out by leaving or acting like we are leaving for a short time - and before the dog starts getting nervous and barking (this may be one second at first), we come back. This way, we are not rewarding barking, but rewarding relaxation and silence. We gradually extend the time we are gone and return before the dog gets anxious. If your dog is anxious even if you leave the room, then you will need to start by just taking several steps away from her while she remains relaxed. While going through this behavior modification, you cannot go too slow – you CAN go too fast.

We often need to change our habits too. Often the dog starts getting nervous when we go through our routine of leaving. Maybe you are like me, and the last thing you do before you leave is put on your shoes and pick up the keys. Vary this and put on your shoes and pick up your keys – but do not leave. Go to the couch and read a book. If you only play the radio on weekends when you are home, turn it on during your workdays. As hard as it may be, set your alarm on weekends, get up, but stay home. Continue these changes in routine until your dog does not pay attention to your cues anymore. It is also very important to not give your dog a lot of attention when you leave.

When you are gone, make sure your dog is comfortable – light, warmth, a radio playing, toys. If your dog is outside, a doghouse may help her feel more secure. Some indoor dogs will be more content if they can watch what is going on outside, be it traffic or chipmunks. Others may be more anxious if they can look out and do better with the drapes closed. You will need to decide what makes your dog less anxious. Make sure you give your dog a lot of exercise a half hour or so before you leave. As with boredom, tired dogs are less likely to become anxious.

If your dog happens to not only bark, but destroy things while you are gone, a crate may be necessary. Never punish your dog when you come home and find something chewed or torn. If you do, your dog will soon associate your return with being punished. That is going to make her even more anxious. If you videotape these destructive dogs, you may see the dog is anxious when the owner leaves but anxiety also increases just before the owner's usual time of return, when the dog becomes anxious about the owner's impending return and punishment.

Just as you should not punish your dog on your return, do not give her a lot of attention either - then your returning home will not be such a big deal to her. Instead, come in the door, say "Hello" and go about a household task. Once your dog has settled down and is quiet, then you can spend some quality time with her.

Initially, while you are working on behavior modification it may be helpful to get a neighbor or pet sitter to come in once or several times during the day. This will help break up the long hours the dog has without you.

Finally, if the separation anxiety is severe, medications are often needed during the behavior modification process. Medication alone will not solve the problem, but it can be a useful adjunct to the process. Consult with your veterinarian to determine which medication would be most appropriate.

Startled barkers

We can best curb startled barking using the similar techniques for alert/warning barks. Teaching "Enough" will really help in this situation. If a certain sound consistently startles your dog, record that sound. Start by playing it back very softly so your dog will remain relaxed when she hears it. If she remains quiet, then reward her. Over days and weeks, gradually increase the volume until she is no longer startled into barking when she hears it.

 

Pathologic barking

Barking that is a simple nuisance is not the same as barking that is pathologically excessive. Most of the barking we have talked about thus far is normal barking behavior except for that connected to separation anxiety. Barking can be abnormal or "pathologic" in situations of separation anxiety, as a result of an obsessive-compulsive disorder in which a dog barks very excessively or at inappropriate things (a leaf falling), or in dogs who become hyper-excited with the approach of people or other dogs. Dogs who become aggressive during barking episodes need to undergo behavior modification for the aggression before we attempt to modify the barking behavior.

For dogs with pathologic barking or additional behavioral problems, it is highly recommended to use a team-approach to the problem. The team consists of all family members, an animal behaviorist, and a veterinarian. Each family member must work with the dog in the same way, using the same commands. The animal behaviorist may be able to cue in on unique characteristics of your dog's behavior and help you set up training situations that will be most effective. Your veterinarian may also be able to give you insights as well as prescribe appropriate medications to enable the dog to be more responsive to the behavior modification.

Preventing nuisance barking in puppies

Teaching your puppy appropriate behavior from the beginning is easier than changing behavior that has become a bad habit. Some behavior we may think of as cute in a puppy will not be cute in an adult dog. So, think ahead to avoid potential problems.

The first few nights after bringing your puppy home. will be the hardest. You may want to put his crate in your bedroom. The puppy will be more secure with you near. Security builds trust. Trust will decrease the possibility of separation anxiety in the future. Just remember not to give any attention to the puppy if he is whining – that will only reward his undesirable behavior.

By starting to train your puppy in obedience and relaxation at an early age, you can greatly reduce the probability your puppy will grow into a problem barker. Nip problems in the bud and always look at why the puppy is barking. Is it fear, anxiety, attention-seeking? Use the appropriate measures to treat the underlying problem.

Remember that if for some reason you want your dog to bark on command, or in a certain situation, you must also be able to teach him to stop on command. Teach "Enough" at an early age. This was described under "Alert/warning Barkers".

Introduce the young puppy to situations that may cause anxiety later on. Get your puppy used to walking on the sidewalk along a busy street. Expose your puppy to sounds like vacuum cleaners, hair dryers, and other noises. Take things slow so your puppy does not become anxious while being exposed to these new things. Reward the puppy when he is quiet and relaxed.

Puppy classes are a great place for your puppy to meet new people and other dogs. He can learn to obey you even when there are numerous distractions. You also have a trainer present who can help you with any potential problems.

In short, it will be a lot more fun for everybody if your puppy learns to communicate through a wag of the tail and looking to you for guidance rather than through excessive and relentless barking.

What not to do:

Controlling barking through corrective collars

There are numerous collars on the market that produce an electrical stimulation, an irritating ultrasonic sound, or a smell when the dog barks. We DO NOT recommend these collars, as collars will not cure the problem.  They only punish the dog for doing a normal behavior.

For some of these hard-core barkers, the punishment for barking is not sufficient to get them to stop. They would rather bark and be punished than not bark at all. For dogs that bark when they are anxious, the collar's correction may make them even more anxious.

The electrical stimulation collars have been known to burn dogs skin and cause permanent damage.  Neighbor dogs can trigger the ultrasonic collars, but your dogs gets a correction himself and the citronella collars can permanently damage your dogs sense of smell.

All the while you are simply masking the real problem of why your dog is barking.

De-barking

Debarking is a surgical procedure that removes the vocal cords from dogs. There are two surgical approaches, one through the mouth, and the other through an incision in the neck. Debarking is a cruel and inhumane act that is illegal in many states. We would NEVER recommend this is ANY situation.  Imagine having a form of your communication painfully and  permanently removed. Besides being a horrific thing to do to a dog, they WILL find another way to communicate. If you never deal with the original problem it will find its way out thru biting, digging, destroying or worse. 

Try these techniques to stop your dog from barking. All of them can be successful, but don't expect miracles overnight. The longer your dog has been practicing the barking behavior, the longer it will take for him to change his ways.

Keep these tips in mind while training:

• Don't yell at your dog to be quiet—it just sounds like you're barking along with him.
• Keep your training sessions positive and upbeat.
• Be consistent so you don't confuse your dog. Everyone in your family must apply the training methods every time your dog barks inappropriately. You can't let your dog get away with inappropriate barking some times and not others.

Remove the motivation

Your dog gets some kind of reward when he barks. Otherwise, he wouldn't do it. Figure out what he gets out of barking and remove it. Don't give your dog the opportunity to continue the barking behavior.

Example: Barking at passersby

If he barks at people or animals passing by the living room window, manage his behavior by closing the curtains or putting your dog in another room. If he barks at passersby when he's in the yard, bring him into the house to manage the situation. Never leave your dog outside unsupervised all day and night.

Ignore the barking

Ignore your dog's barking for as long as it takes him to stop. That means don't give him any attention at all while he's barking. Your attention only rewards him for being noisy.

Don't talk to him, don't touch him, and don't even look at him. When he finally quiets, even to take a breath, reward him with a treat.

To be successful with this method:

• You must wait as long as it takes for him to stop barking. If he barks for an hour and you finally get so frustrated that you yell at him to be quiet, the next time he'll probably bark for an hour and a half. He learns that if he just barks long enough you'll give him attention.
• Be consistent. You must ignore the barking EVERY time.

Example: barking when confined

If your dog is in his crate or confined to a room behind a baby gate or other barrier, he may bark because he wants to be with you.

• Turn your back and ignore him.
• Whenever he stops barking, turn, praise him, and give him a treat.
• Make a game of it. As he catches on that being quiet gets him a treat, lengthen the amount of time he must remain quiet before being rewarded.
• Start small. Reward him for being quiet for just a second or two. Work up to longer periods of quiet.
• Keep the game fun by varying the amount of time. Sometimes reward him after 5 seconds, then 12 seconds, then 3 seconds, then 20 seconds, and so on.

Desensitization and counter conditioning

Gradually get your dog accustomed to whatever is causing him to bark. Start with the stimulus (the thing that makes him bark) at a distance. It must be far enough away that he doesn't bark when he sees it. Feed him lots of good treats. Move the stimulus a little closer (perhaps as little as a few inches or a few feet to start) and feed treats. If the stimulus moves out of sight, stop giving your dog treats.

You want your dog to learn that the appearance of the stimulus leads to good things (treats!).

Example: barking at dogs

Dogs that are afraid of other dogs will often bark at them.

• Have a friend with a dog stand out of sight far enough away that you know your dog won't bark at the other dog.
• As the friend and dog come into view, start feeding your dog lots of very yummy treats (tiny bits of cooked chicken usually work well). Keep feeding treats until the friend and dog are out of sight.
• Stop feeding treats as soon as the friend and dog disappear from view.
• Ask your friend and her dog to gradually walk closer.
• Don't try to progress too quickly; it may take days or weeks before your dog can pay attention to you and the treats without barking at the other dog.
• Contact a behavior professional for assistance if you need help.

Teach your dog the "quiet" command

It may sound nonsensical, but to stop your dog from barking, first teach him to bark on command.

• Give your dog the command to "speak." Have someone immediately make a noise—such as knocking on the door—that is sure to make your dog bark.
• Let him bark two or three times, then stick a tasty treat in front of his nose.
• When he stops barking to sniff the treat, praise him and give him the treat. Repeat until he starts barking as soon as you say "speak."

Once your dog can reliably bark on command, teach the "quiet" command.

• Start in a calm environment with no distractions.
• Tell him to "speak." When he starts barking, say "quiet" and stick a treat in front of his nose.
• Praise him for being quiet and give him the treat.

Example: Intruder at the Door

When the doorbell rings, your dog alerts you to the presence of an "intruder" by barking wildly. Once you've taught your dog the "quiet" command in a calm environment, practice in increasingly distracting situations until your dog can immediately stop barking when asked to, even when that "intruder" arrives at the door.

Ask your dog for an incompatible behavior

When your dog starts barking, ask him to do something that's incompatible with barking.

Example: intruder at the door

Teach your dog to react to the doorbell by going to his special place (his bed or perhaps a mat near the door) and lying quietly while the "intruder" comes into the house.

• Start by tossing a treat on his mat and telling him to "go to your place."
• Have him go to his place before you give him the treat.
• When he's reliably going to his mat to earn a treat, up the ante by opening the door while he's on his mat. If he gets up, close the door immediately.
• Repeat until he stays on his mat while the door opens.
• Then increase the difficulty by having someone ring the doorbell while your dog is on his mat. Reward him if he stays in place.

Other suggestions

Stimulate your dog. Make sure your dog is getting sufficient physical and mental exercise every day. A tired dog is a good dog and one who is less likely to bark from boredom or frustration. Depending on his breed, age, and health, your dog may require several long walks as well as a good game of chasing the ball and playing with some interactive toys.

To deal with barking issues or any other behavioral concerns, please contact:

Tails-A-Wagging

3959 Hammer Dr

Bellingham, Wa 98226

733-7387

www.tails-a-wagging.com

Titer Testing

TITER TESTING

With the concerns of over vaccination in our pet dogs, you may have questions about titer testing. Here are some of our thoughts on the subject.

What is titer testing? A titer test (pronounced TIGHT er) is a laboratory test measuring the existence and level of antibodies to disease in blood. Antibodies are produced when an antigen (like a virus or bacteria) provokes a response from the immune system. This response can come from natural exposure or from vaccination. (Note: titering is also called serum vaccine antibody titering and serologic vaccine titering.)

How is the test performed? First, a sample of blood is drawn from your pet and sent off to a veterinary laboratory. The sample is then diluted. Titer levels, expressed as ratios, indicate how many times blood can be diluted before no antibodies are detected. If blood can be diluted a 1000 times and still show antibodies, the ratio would be 1:1000. This is a “strong” titer. A titer of 1:2 would be weak.

Should I test for all diseases? The most recommended test examines antibodies for both parvovirus, hepatitis (adenovirus) and distemper, the  most important viruses. At Tails-A-Wagging, we also require Bordetella to that test would be added as well if your dog attends day care, doggie socials or classes with us. Rabies titers are not often done in our area as Washington State has a law requiring vaccination of dogs, cats and ferrets, but the titer test can be done.

http://www.whatcomhumane.org/index.php?news_display,147

Why test? The parvovirus/distemper test can help you or others (vets, groomers, kennel owners, etc.) determine if your dog requires additional vaccination, and may save your dog unnecessary vaccines. It is especially useful when making a decision about vaccinating an animal with unknown vaccination history, or for determining if puppies have received immunity from vaccination (more below).

Most experts believe strong titers are a more reliable indication of immunity than vaccination: tests show the actual immune response, not just the attempt to cause an immune response by vaccination. Do not expect, however, that everyone will accept test results in place of proof of vaccination. The subject of immunity is complicated and should be discussed with your veterinarian.

How often should I test titers for parvo and distemper? We require Distemper/parvo titer testing once per year and Bordetella once eery 6 months. this can be expensive and some clients do titer testing for Distemper/Parvo and simply get their dog vaccinated for Rabies and Bordetella.

Does a weak titer mean that the dog needs a “booster” shot? Maybe not for dogs that have previously shown strong titers. But it would be required for attending Tails-A-Wagging.

Should I test my puppy? Yes! If so, when? Ideally, puppies should have had their last vaccination after 16 weeks of age then should be tested to see if further vaccination is necessary. There’s an excellent discussion about testing puppies in the 2006 American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Canine Vaccine Task Force entitled What Are The Possible Applications of Serologic Testing? It reads, “Such titer testing is the only way to ensure that a puppy has developed an immune response after vaccinating.”

Also, since at Tails-A-Wagging we do not accept breeder or owner given vaccines, it may be suggested that your pup get a titer test to show immunity to take a class or begin day care, until the next vaccine (administered by a veterinarian) is given to your pup.

What do titer tests cost? Testing costs vary widely from practice to practice, so shop around. Some vets do in-house testing. Others use outside labs. Some mark up tests and services a little; others, a lot. You should be able to have parvo/distemper tests done most places for less than $100. Rabies tests, on the other hand, can cost considerably more, in large part because they are sent overnight to a lab.

Should I test for rabies antibodies? The rabies titer test will give you an indication of your dog’s immunity if he or she is at particular risk for contracting rabies. It may also be required prior to international travel. Test results will NOT be accepted by Animal Control and most others as a substitute for vaccination of healthy dogs as required by law.

If your dog has documented health problems or documented adverse reactions to shots, your vet may be able to get your dog an exemption to rabies vaccination. A rabies titer test is not usually necessary when requesting an exemption but may be useful when re-applying for a denied exemption. It may also give you and others piece of mind if you’re contemplating an exemption.

Can I test titers immediately after vaccinating? To get an accurate test, you must wait at least 14 days after vaccination before testing.

　
 
Also, remember that since titer testing only checks the current level of immunity in your dog and your dogs immune response can be altered by illness or disease (infection, internal parasites etc) expect that if you dog becomes ill for any reason, you will be required to have titer testing done again, for Tails-A-Wagging requirements.

HELP! My Puppy Is out of his MIND!

Hi Tails,

I KNOW you can help... as you are aware we got a puppy last week.  We start classes with you soon,  but until then,  we need some help.  Just like everyone, we are a busy family and we are committed to this pup,  but is there something we can do to help him not be so CRAZY!  We love him so much, but OMG... can puppies have ADD?  HELP!

The Wyss Family



Dear Wyss Family,
What if I said "YES" there is one thing you can do that will immediately help puppy be more attentive,  more focused, more aware of you and the family overall...AND its free.  Now I have your attention! Its hand feeding.  Yes,  one kibble at a time, hand feeding can help puppy with

• Having a soft mouth
• Teach puppy that hands coming towards their face is a good thing
• Impulse Control
• Basic Manners
• Bite Inhibition
• Attention to the family
• Love of strangers
• and so much more!

Put all of puppies food that he is to eat in a container in the morning.  One piece at a time give pup a kibble for some basic cues (coming to you, sitting on cue, laying down etc)  nothing too difficult.  Everyone in the family can do a little here and a little there,  so the responsibility is spread out.  Going to get the mail? Take puppy on leash and ask the neighbor to give a few, one at a time.  Going to his veterinary appointment? Ask the staff to give a few, one at time.  Puppy learns nothing in life is free and that people are the givers of all great things!  Very powerful lesson for a pup.

Start right away,  and continue for at least one week...many people do it for a much longer time as it can help with the bond between the two of you.

Also, be sure to read our BEFORE You Get Your Puppy Book on our web site
http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/sites/default/files/BEFORE%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy_0.pdf

Remember, we are always here for you and puppy. See you all soon in class!
Tails-A-Wagging Team

Happy Howl-O-Ween

Halloween is just around the corner. Time for parties, candy and a good scare... quality dog trainers know its also a special time too...

If you have a puppy less than 8 months of age, look at Halloween as a excellent opportunity to work on getting your puppy used to certain things that can cause an adult dog fear.

Costumes, scary noises, kids running about... all can be very scary stuff for an under socialized dog.

Look at this time as an opportunity to show your puppy that these things are good and trustworthy.

 

Do you have a busy trick-o-treating neighborhood? Sit in a chair on your porch with a bowl of candy for the kids and a pocket full of tasty treats for pup. Reward your pup every time they see someone in costume or make a funny noise. They will make the association that the "scary" things are good. Not your scene? Head over to one of the many THRILLER-zombie performances . In one afternoon you can scratch loud music, costumes, scary noises and crowds off your puppies to-do socialization list.

Just remember to bring food treats that puppy will not say no to (think cheese or canned chicken)

 

The goal is to NEVER let puppy react negatively,  if you are not sure what puppy will do,  contact a trainer and they can evaluate the pup before the big day.  I just did this for a few clients last week...costume and all!

Also, if pup is very young and not yet finished with their vaccine history, plan on carrying them rather than them walking on leash as they do not get have adequate immunity to protect them.

 

Look at all of this as an opportunity to expose pup to lots of things in a positive way. Remember, what puppy has a pleasurable experience with now- they will not fear later. Happy HOW-O-WEEN!

Question of the week

Hey Tails,

I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?

 

**********************************************

Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg work on their web site

1) Check out the “about us” page.

If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience, I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this means its likely they are not sure of now to properly screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are not appropriate for day care.

2) Check out their photo or gallery page.

Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its simply not safe.

Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?

Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based- intimidation training.

NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.

Do you see kids on the photos?

If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.

Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?

Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation. Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are looking out for the staff’s best interest?

 

Do you see real grass?

There is no way to sanitize grass... its simply not appropriate for a dog day care or boarding facility of safety and health is their number one concern.

3) Make a quick phone call.

Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.

4) Check them out on Facebook.

What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?

Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the best day care you can!

Hey Tails,

I know you have been around for a LONG time... can you give me some advise? As you know, I am moving out of state and need to find a new doggie day care. Can you tell us what we should be looking for in a new place? I have gone to many other day care’s web sites... but they all look good! Any trick to weed out the ones I should not even bother to interview?

Sure! We are happy to help. First, be sure to check out the info on our web site our page on How to Choose a Doggie Day Care http://www.tails-a-wagging.com/daycare/choosing-a-daycare but even before you get to that point, there are some tricks to doing some leg work on their web site

1) Check out the “about us” page.

If the information is only personal, and no real professional experience, I would suggest you move on. The most common information you might read is “we love dogs so we opened up a doggie day care” We ALL love dogs, if dogs were not our passion we would not be here! But it takes more than a love of dogs to be able to run a doggie day care properly. Only accept a doggie day care with a dog trainer on staff, or at least one with an owner with years of self education on dog training and dog behavior. Bottom line: if the staff are not trained properly in dog behavior this means its likely they are not sure of now to properly screen dogs coming into the facility, and there ends up being dogs there who are not appropriate for day care.

2) Check out their photo or gallery page.

Do you see big dogs and little dogs in the same play group? A day care should never allow to have big dogs and small dogs in the same play group, its simply not safe.

Do you see dogs wearing choke chains while playing?

Its ok for dogs to have collars on while they play, as long as the staff do not allow collar grabbing or collar pulling by other dogs, and staff are not using the collars as handles. Choke chains are a sign of old school corrective training, and if you see it not only it is horribly unsafe (imagine a tooth being caught while playing) but it tells you they promote fear based- intimidation training.

NOTE: be weary of “collar free” play groups. The most common reason a day care would not have collars on the dogs is because they have inappropriate dogs who, if a collar was on, would be allowed to grab and pull them. This is a sign of a day care full of ill mannered dogs.

Do you see kids on the photos?

If the day care owners/mangers allow their kids to work or be at the facility, you can be assured this is not the place for you. Not all dogs are good with kids, and we would never suggest your dogs livelihood should be put into the hands of a child. I am sure the kids love dogs, but it’s a liability issue. Day care attendants should never be younger than 18 yrs. of age. This includes “volunteers” or people hanging out and visiting.

Are staff dressed appropriately? long pants? closed shoes? uniforms?

Too casual of an atmosphere and staff are at risk of scratches, from being jumped on, injuries on feet, from being stepped on, and generally not professional overall. Of course, lets not forget the staff are with dogs all day! but, that does not mean they are not in a professional situation. Appropriate attire is essential, with out it are you sure the owner/mangers are looking out for the staff’s best interest?

3) Make a quick phone call.

Its true at Tails we have a waiting list to get into our facility, and we always have for 15 yrs... but just because a faculty can get your dog in sooner, are you sure you want them to? Are they sticklers for health requirements for vaccines, fecal testing and health exams? Do they set up an appropriate 6 to 8 hr. evaluations? Find out how many dogs actually make it in and pass their temperament test. At Tails our average is 3 out of 5 dogs pass our test. When you come across a facility that takes every dogs who comes in...be aware there are some dogs there who should not be there.

4) Check them out on Facebook.

What do they post? Just photos? or do you learn about their community involvement. Do they work with/donate to area rescue groups and shelters? What other business have they “liked”on Facebook? Are they in line with their core beliefs and mission? Do they post updates to let you know why they are a great facility? Do their posts give you a sense of who they are?

Good Luck! Your pup is worth the time and energy to make sure you find the best day care you can!

Can medication therapy help my dogs’ behavior problems?

 

There are many medications that your dog might be able to be prescribed by your veterinarian to assist you in the training program you and your dog trainer are currently working on.  Problems like separation anxiety,  fear issues, compulsive behaviors and reactive behavior are just some of the behaviors that are helped by medication therapy.  However,  your veterinarian will not prescribe medication therapy without your dog already  having had  an evaluation by an accredited dog trainer who specializes in the issues your dog is having and is also in agreement the medication might be useful.

 

Before any medication therapy,  your veterinarian will also do a medical examination including a full blood work up and urinalysis,  this often includes a full thyroid panel, to rule out metabolic  and hormonal disease.  Some behavior problems can arise from medical issues and that needs to be ruled out first.

 

For specific behavioral issues most dog trainers perform a private lesson.  The trainer will  come out to your home and  evaluate the situation where the dog is the most relaxed.  The trainer will discuss your dogs nutrition plan and current feeding regimen,  your dogs exercise program and current life situation. From that point, the trainer will set up a plan to work the issues.  Only after the plan is followed and if its determined the plan needs adjustment, would medication therapy be discussed. You would work with your trainer and veterinarian together to find the best plan for you and your dog.

 

Its not appropriate for a dog to be on medication therapy without behavioral modification because the whole point of the medication is for the dog to get into a state of mind to actually treat the issues and eliminate them from the dogs routine. Medication is not meant to cover up or stifle a behavior, but to  allow the dog to be able to accept appropriate treatment from a proper training plan.

 

 

Why Dogs Hump

There isn't a single reason behind this normal behavior

Published on September 1, 2012 by Marc Bekoff, Ph.D. in Animal Emotions

"On a beautiful, warm afternoon, I watched a group of dogs frolic in a dog park. Suddenly, I heard a woman’s high-pitched yelp, followed by the pounding of human feet. There was no need to look; it was obviously about humping, which we can also refer to as mounting." So wrote Julie Hecht in her
excellent review of humping by dogs. Indeed, because humping often often offends some people, Julie titled her essay "H*umping".

Mounting and humping by dogs are among those behavior patterns about which humans make lots of assumptions but we really don't know much about them. Dogs will mount and hump other dogs and other nonhuman animals (animals) from a wide variety of positions, human legs, and objects such as beach balls, water buckets, food bowls, pillows, and garbage pails without a care in the world. If you want to watch please do but an audience isn't necessary. Sometimes they hold on for upwards of 20-30 seconds and sometimes they just jump on and slide off and saunter away. And size doesn't matter.


While many humans feel embarrassed when they see a beloved four-legged friend mount and hump in public places, this behavior is a normal part of a dog’s behavioral repertoire. Both males and females mount and hump, and these behaviors first appear early in a dog’s life, particularly during play. Mounting and humping should not be considered abnormal behavior patterns.

While mounting is best known for its role in reproduction, it also occurs in many other contexts and emotional states. Dogs mount when they're excited and arousal and even when they're stressed and anxious. Take out the leash to go for a walk and Lassie starts humping Toto. You come home after a long day’s work and Spot goes for your leg.

Mounting could also be what ethologists call a displacement behavior, meaning that it's a byproduct of conflicted emotions. For some dogs a new visitor to the house could elicit a mixture of excitement and stress that could make for a humping dog. And as we might flip on the TV when we’re bored, some dogs develop the habit of mounting during downtime, getting better acquainted with a pillow. Mounting is also very common during play, sometimes as an attention-getter, an affiliative behavior, or when a dog is over-excited. I've seen dogs going "beserk", enjoying that "doggy fit" - running here and there and mounting and humping a friend and then a ball.


What about dominance and mounting? In a recent article on mounting, Peter Borchelt, Ph. D., a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) in New York City, noted, “Mounting could be part of a suite of behaviors associated with aggression, such as high posture, resource guarding, direct stares, and threats and standing over. But mounting, in and of itself, doesn’t indicate a status issue. By itself, mounting might not mean a lot.” (cited in Hecht, 2012).

In my own studies of the development of social behavior in young dogs, coyotes, and wolves, mounting, clasping, and humping were not directly related to dominance, nor were they associated with dominance for the wild coyotes my students and I studied in the Grand Teton National Park outside of Jackson,Wyoming.

I wonder if in some sitiations dogs mount and perhaps hump others when there are dogs around who can see them doing it. Years ago in a detailed study of urination patterns in dogs I could easily follow I discovered they often engaged in what I called "dry marking"; they'd lift a leg but wouldn't urinate. When I looked at the social situations in which this happened it turned out that dry marking occurred more when other dogs were around than when the dog was alone. I concluded that leg-lifting might be a visual signal in and of itself telling other individuals something like "I (the dog) just peed." It would be interesting to know if dogs mount and hump more when other dogs can see them, and if so, perhaps in some situations mounting and humping may have something to do with telling others about relative dominance.

Future research is also needed to determine how often mounting leads to humping. We really don't know all that much about these behavior patterns and how often they're linked together so generalizations about what they mean to the dogs involved need to be put on hold.

Is humping a problem and what can you do about it
Are mounting and humping problems about which we should be concerned? Mounting, including humping and masturbation, are normal behaviors according to the ASPCA (and others) although for some dogs, they could become a compulsive habit such as excessive tail-chasing.

The bigger question is, “What do mounting and humping mean to your dog?” To answer this question consider them in the context in one or the other or both occur. For example, what happens before mounting and how often and how long does it occur? If mounting suggests a dog is under-stimulated perhaps they could be provided with additional mental or physical activities. If mounting suggests anxiety it would be good to increase a dog’s comfort level in a particular situation, Or, if a dog gets overstimulated and goes bonkers or gets rude or impolite during social interactions with other dogs or people, it would be good to encourage mutually-beneficial interactions. Guardians (aka owners) can intervene in mounting and humping by getting the dog's attention-getting or by teaching an alternate behavior to assist the dog in their interactions with others.

Perhaps your dog mounts and/or humps only occasionally because they like to do it and can, and you can leave it at that. Let them be dogs.

Getting behind mounting and humping

 
Julie Hecht concludes her review of humping as follows: "When trying to get behind any behavior (pun intended), [Marc] Bekoff recommends becoming an at-home ethologist. 'Get a paper and pencil, and watch and record what happens before and after the behavior of interest. This can tell you more about the behavior itself.' This technique can help you determine when a behavior needs to be managed and when it’s just fine.

"If dogs could talk — and they actually are with their behavior — they’d ask us not to clump mounting into one universal meaning. So what’s your dog’s mounting behavior telling you?

"All in all, when we’re trying to figure out a behavior, we’re better served by observation and understanding of its roots than by the stories we tend to tell ourselves and others."

Clearly, there isn't a single explanation for mounting or humping. Mounting and humping are normal behavior patterns so let's not allow our own discomfort to get in the way of dogs doing what comes naturally. You can turn away, pretend it isn't happening, or giggle nervously and, as I wrote above, let them be dogs. One thing's for sure, dogs hump because they can.

　

Further reading

ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist. “Mounting and Masturbation.”

Bekoff, M. 1979. "Scent-marking by domestic dogs. Olfactory and visual components." Biology of Behaviour 4, 123-139.

Bergman, L. “Canine Mounting: An Overview.” Applied Behavior / North American Veterinary Conference Clinician’s Brief, January 2012: 61-63.

Hecht, J. “H*mping: Why do they do it?” The Bark, June-August 2012: 70, 56-60.