WHAT IS PET INSURANCE?

Every pet owner wants to keep their pet healthy and happy. That's why regular vet visits and giving pets the care they need in case of accident and illness is so important. Pet insurance can provide pet owners with financial support that can be used towards professional veterinary care, some related medical costs and benefits that help you deal with unexpected costs (and sometimes the preventive costs, too) of care. 

Regardless of your income or financial situation, if you're like most pet owners, you may not be setting aside the funds to provide veterinary medical care for your pet in the event of illness or an emergency. Even if you do, those sometimes the money get used for other expenses such as a child's college fund, home improvements, vacations, vehicle purchases and repairs.

Professional Care

Today, like with human healthcare, the veterinary medical profession continues to advance and can treat virtually any condition or injury that a pet may incur throughout their lifetime - provided they receive the required treatment early or quickly enough, and as long as the pet owner has the financial means to cover the real cost of care.

Pet health insurance is a useful financial tool that:

•  Protects you and your finances against unexpected medical costs
•  Ensures veterinarians can provide your pet with optimal care and the most advanced veterinary medical treatments
•  Prevents pet owners from having to make a financial decision to end a pet's life due to their inability to pay for the  needed treatments
•  Ensures a pet owner does not need to hesitate before taking a pet for veterinary treatment, or wait until a condition  worsens before feel it's worth the expense to visit their vet
•  Provides a plan for the costs of routine and even preventive care, if you have Wellness Care coverage

•  Assists you in helping your pet to live a healthier and sometimes longer life.

UNDERSTANDING COVERAGE

With other kinds of insurance, years may pass without you ever having to make a claim. Pet insurance is designed to be used. Unfortunately, experience has shown that it is likely that your pet will become ill or injured and need medical care, and as they age these risks only increase.

The earlier the better

If you're fortunate enough to have a healthy pet and you rarely need to claim, it doesn't necessarily mean you don't need coverage. Research has shown that up to 90% of veterinary expenses can happen in the last 10% of your pet's life. Like with human insurance, the earlier (and younger) you enroll your pet for coverage, the lower your premiums and deductibles will be, and the more likely it is that your pet will not have any pre-existing conditions that will be excluded from coverage.

The cost of coverage

The cost of coverage for all pets is decided the same way. There are three factors to consider: 1) the species/breed of your pet; 2) its age at the time of enrolment; and 3) where you live in Canada. These three factors help underwrite (calculate the cost and risks) every cat and dog.

Get your money's worth

As with many things in life, with pet insurance, you get what you pay for. Paying a higher premium affords you a higher level of coverage (and higher payouts or "benefits").

Knowing what to expect

• When you look for coverage, make sure that you know exactly what your pet is covered for - and what exclusions apply.  
• Carefully consider what level of coverage you think you might require for your pet, and what you can afford.
• Some pet insurance companies offer variable deductibles that will decrease or increase premiums.
• All pet insurance companies should post their coverage features on their website, or have them available by mail.
• Once you've made your decision and signed-up for a policy, familiarize yourself with what's included by reading through  the terms and conditions. Some insurance companies now offer coverage for services such as alternative treatments or US travel.

If you're thinking about getting pet insurance, you've already taken the right step in taking good care of your pet. Research your options, talk to your veterinary clinic staff and arm yourself with the information you need to make the right choice. Although pet insurance do not participate in direct billing yet, we are available to help you process your claims at your next visit to the clinic so you can receive your reimbursement. Here are links to the most popular pet insurance companies that our clients use for their pets:

Pets Plus Us - www.petsplusus.com

Trupanion - http://trupanion.com/canada

PetPlan - http://canada.gopetplan.com

Pet Secure -www.petsecure.com

Dangers of Alpha Rolling

Greta Kaplan, CPDT, CDBC

I read a tragic news article: “Puppy Owner Pleads Not Guilty for Choking Animal to Death,” Associated Press, February 26, 2010. According to the article, the owner admitted holding the 10-week old Labrador puppy down for 20 seconds after the puppy bit the owner’s girlfriend on the nose, causing what the Animal Services officer called “a minor scratch.”. According to the officer, the puppy was taken to an emergency vet where he “couldn’t walk, was breathing poorly and had reddish saliva and blue gums.” The puppy died.

Without further information, of course, we do not know what motivated the owner. Perhaps he was really angry and lost his temper, badly enough to kill the puppy. Certainly, this does not match the description given.

If we accept the description given, the owner deliberately held the puppy down, using quite a lot of force. It appears this holding-down maneuver was intended as a consequence for a bite to the girlfriend’s nose. It’s reasonable to conclude that the owner believed two things: First, that the bite to the nose was a seriously unacceptable, even aggressive act that justified severe discipline; and second, that holding a puppy down with severe force is an appropriate way to discipline a dog, including a ten-week old puppy.

Both of these propositions are false. First, puppies this age bite. It’s developmentally normal and almost never “aggressive.” (Serious aggression in puppies this age is so rare that it causes a flurry on trainer email lists if observed; many trainers simply never have seen it.) Second, holding a dog or puppy down as a form of discipline is dangerous and unnecessary.

The danger can be to the person if the dog is an adult, particularly a large one. Holding a large adult dog down puts the person’s face near the dog’s mouth, and a dog who panics, or decides not to put up with the human aggression, is very likely to target the face simply because it’s nearby. It can also be dangerous to the dog, as in this case, where the size and strength disparity was extreme.

This type of discipline is unnecessary. Dogs simply do not use “holding each other down” or “rolling other dogs over” as a way of punishing or enforcing status. Wolves may do it, but they do so extremely rarely; but in any case, dogs are not wolves; and even if they were, we are not wolves and do not remotely understand how and when to apply this type of serious, dangerous consequence. There are numerous other safer, saner and more effective ways to influence your dog’s behavior.

Where, then, would an owner get the idea this was a good tactic? One popular dog training book by The Monks of New Skete advocated the “alpha roll” in its first edition, about three decades ago. The second edition, much more recent, retracted that advice with an apology. However, the original edition is still out there; I recently saw a client who’d done a few alpha rolls on her young dog, based on that very book, which she’d picked up secondhand.

Realistically, though, not many people read that book any more. On the other hand, every week, millions of people watch a television star who often performs maneuvers very like the one that killed this puppy. You can watch, on YouTube and the National Geographic website, as this entertainer grabs dogs and pushes or slams them onto the ground. In some clips, you can literally see the dog’s tongue turning blue after some time on the ground. No wonder many pet owners might get the idea that this is a potentially appropriate response to perceived aggression from the dog.

And, this same performer often delivers this type of consequence for behavior described as “dominant.” I don’t doubt that he might describe normal puppy biting as “dominant.” So again, it’s no wonder that a pet owner might be led to perceive normal puppy biting as “dominant,” and to respond in a way he’d seen repeatedly modeled on TV.

I do not know whether the owner of the dead puppy, who is being charged with felony animal abuse, has watched “The Dog Whisperer” on TV. However, I don’t know one competent behavior consultant who did not immediately, on seeing this tragic news story, make the same guess I did. This type of human behavior is repeatedly modeled by a charismatic, persuasive, and apparently effective role model on an extremely popular television show. It is inevitable that someone was going to “try this at home” with disastrous results; and this puppy’s death might be that disastrous result.

Permission to cross post granted by:

www.companionanimalsolution.com

Greta Kaplan, CPDT, CDBC

                   Are you coming?  We hope so!

Barky McBarkerson

Hi Tails-A-Wagging, 
Can you help?  We are having a problem with Sammy,  our rescue dog.  We live on a fairly busy street, with lots of walk by traffic.  Sammy is running to the window and barking at everyone who passes by...it can go on for a bit,  but I really need your help.  I called another dog trainer who told me to throw a can of pennies at him and one who said to use a water bottle and spray him.  I tried both and he is getting worse.  My vet said to call you. Hoping for any advise you can give.

Rachael and Sammy in Fairhaven

Dear Rachael and Sammy,
Yes, we are happy to help.

What you are describing is Alert Barking. You can tell this type of barking from other types as he is looking at the thing he is trying to alert you to.  This is a normal and natural behavior in dogs.  Sammy sees the passer-byer's as a threat. Please note, this is  a situation your dog views as a threat, not necessarily something you see as a threat.   Maybe its a neighbor dog, maybe a mail carrier person or maybe a family member on a dimly lit porch. He is doing his job, to alert you to the dangers in the world, as he sees it.  When you reprimand and scold a dog for a normal and natural behavior they often hear "you suck at your job, do it better"  so the behavior can get worse.  Sammy only wants to the right thing,  he is just trying to succeed at his job.  To extinguish the behavior we are going to thank him, appreciate him and reward him for a job well done.

First, I want you to arm your home with several small closed containers of super yummy treats.  Keep them nearby, so you never have to go far to get some.   High value stuff here (dehydrated fish,  cheese, hot dog etc.) or better yet, get a treat pouch and keep it on you at all times.  When Sammy barks at a trigger, I want you to get up quickly and go to him fast,  tell him "THANK YOU"(light, happy-smiling voice) and give him the treat. Then quickly begin to back up and call him away "COME AWAY"  and give him another treat.  He may see the trigger again, and bark again, but just keep repeating the above.

WHAT?  did I just tell you to reward your dog for barking????

No... here's why.  You thanked your dog for a job well done.  By getting up and going to him,  you have acknowledged what he needed- for you to be made aware of the threat.  By giving him the treat, you are rewarding for the very last thing he did -  focusing on you and not barking!  Then by calling him away and rewarding him again,  you let him know what you want him to do after alerting you to the problem. 
Remember, its not that we don't want Sammy to bark, ever...  Believe me if someone was breaking in to your house, you want to know.  We just want him to understand that one or two barks is enough,  his job is done and he can settle, as you have it covered.

Now,  after working this for a few days, I want you to really pay attention to his body language BEFORE he alert barks.  The barks is probably the 3rd or 4th physical manifestation of the alert.  He probably 1) goes to the window 2)  tail goes up   3) ears go up  4) he alert barks.
I want you to now start thanking him and calling him away (remember, still rewarding twice)  for the non verbal alerts.  Let him know he does not need to  bark in order to do his job,  often he only needs to alert with his tail or ears.  Just like you, dogs want to expel the least amount of energy to get the job done. 

Yes, this means more work on your part. You need to be diligent and observe your dog.  Pay attention,  be mindful of his environment.

You will notice, over time,  his need to alert to you will gradually fade off.  Once he knows you are a team, working together.

All the best,
Angi,  Tails-A-Wagging

4th of July is not a time when your dog will celebrate

4^th of July is not a time when your dog will celebrate

 

Although Bellingham City Council just passed the ban on consumer fireworks in Bellingham ( YAY!)  it won’t go into effect until next year and it may take a few years after that for things to actually begin to settle down.

 

Here is a good plan on what to do for your dog who might be noise phobic with fireworks or other stimuli like storms.

 

Counter Conditioning and Desensitization

These two techniques are often used to change unwanted behavior in animals. Just as the term implies, counter conditioning means conditioning (training) an animal to display a behavior that is counter to (mutually exclusive of) an unacceptable behavior in response to a particular stimulus.

Desensitization involves gradually exposing a pet to the sound of fireworks, without provoking the unwanted reaction. Use of firework sound cd’s at an almost inaudible level,  while feeding your dog amazing treats is a good place to start (no dry biscuits here… think cheese or meat)

Desensitization is the process of exposing an animal to a stimulus beginning at a very low intensity. So low that it does not result in the undesired behavior.  The stimulus intensity is then increased gradually, without eliciting the unwanted behavior. If at anytime your dog becomes stressed you are going way too fast.  This process can take weeks to months… not days.

If the incremental increases are too large, or occur too quickly, the techniques will either not be effective, or may even make the problem worse. Implementing a counter conditioning and desensitization program requires some thought and planning.

 

Be a home body

If you know your dog has a tendency to become stressed when  hearing  fireworks,  don’t leave your dog alone.  You have many things in your life:  work, friends, family, your dog… But your dog may just have you.  Trust me, everything is easier for them when you are there.  Even the scary stuff.

 

Helpful Tools

There are many items that can assist you in achieving a more relaxed state from your dog:  Thunder Shirts  www.thundershirt.com , 

Rescue Remedy www.bachrescueremedypet.com

Dog Appeasing Pheromones www.dapdiffuser.com

T-Touch  www.ttouch.com

White Noise cd’s or machine

 

Experiment, before you actually need it… test to see how your dog is effected so you are more prepared.

 

Reduce the Stimuli

Close the blinds/drapes to  shut out the visual effects (flashes of lighting, lights, or sparks of fireworks) that your dog associates as reliable predictors of the bad noise.

Close all the windows, and use fans to help circulate the air.

 

If it helps you… hug your dog

Its very important that you stay calm.  If it brings you comfort to hold and soothe your dog, then do it.  You may think its reinforcing a bad behavior, but if you are in the thick of it we need to manage the situation- so by all means, if it relaxes you and therefore can relax your dog, go for it.

 

Food Puzzles

If your dog is only mildly sensitive, you might find using a food puzzle can distract them a lot.  Try this: (it take about 4 days to prepare)

Using a small plastic container pour in one inch of chicken broth and freeze.  Once frozen layer in another flavor of low fat plain yogurt, freeze again.  Drop in some meat pieces,  or liver treats, again with some broth and freeze… get the picture?  We are making a layered puzzle.  Mix it up by putting  a bully stick or Greenie in the center and a layer of peanut butter around it and give it one more freezing. Pop this out and feed it in a crate or and area where it won’t be a big deal with the floor.  (in the summer, this makes for a great yard treat)

 

Drugs

Although I strongly caution against using certain types of  tranquilizers that act like dissociative anesthetics; (ones that alter perception), which may make the dog more fearful, you may find working with a veterinarian who has a good understanding of short acting  anti anxiety medications might be a good choice for your dog

Your new baby and your dog

Congratulation! You’re a new parent! The baby’s room is all made up, you’re back home, and your family is going to start spoiling your baby.

Uh oh…there might have been something you overlooked…

The dog. How is your precious pet going to react to having a new person in the house?

The fact is that while getting to bring home your baby from the hospital is exciting, you need to be aware of how your dog will react. This is critical for everyone – and even more so if your dog is used to being spoiled and coddled as “the only child” in the house up until now.

But don’t worry – just follow these tips and you can ensure everything will go smoothly when you bring home your baby.

Hopefully you can tackle these potential problems BEFORE you bring your kid home. An ounce of prevention…

Does your dog consistently obey your voice commands? If you haven’t taught your dog this skill, now is the time. Obedience training is critical to having your dog stay well-behaved around your new baby. At a minimum he needs to know “sit”, “stay”, “off”, “down” and “leave it” – these are all going to come in handy as you juggle both the baby and the dog. If you will be walking your dog as your push your baby’s stroller, we also suggest your pet know how to walk politely in a leash

Does your dog nip or play bite? If so, call a reward based trainer TODAY. Your dog simply cannot bite or lay it’s teeth on your child. It’s just too dangerous.

This might sound cruel, but it’s necessary: start reducing the amount of attention you give your dog every day. This does not mean to ignore it or stop loving it. But you are going to be very busy with your new baby, and the fact is the dog is not going to be able to get as much attention as he is used to at first. So by starting ahead of time you can get it better prepared.

Has your dog every been around babies? If not, start with carrying a doll around. Ask friends for stinky baby clothes to dress the doll in.

Have you ever watched a child interact with a new object? They bite it. Lick it. Slap it. Poke it. Prod it. Fall on it. Cry at it. One day your baby is going to do that to your dog too. Start getting your dog used to having it poked, prodded, nudged, and “messed with.” We start this VERY early with all our dogs and it is invaluable. We can poke and prod our dogs mouths, tails, face and feet as they eat, sleep, and sit without them getting upset.
　
Start introducing your dog to other babies. Do this safely, and pull out all the stops when it comes to rewarding good dog behavior around babies, infants, and toddlers. Give him his favorite treats and love. Let your dog know that these little human beings, while looking different, are not something to fear or get reactive towards.

Food safety. The fact is that some dogs have a territorial or aggressive streak when it comes to food. Evolutionarily, this makes sense.
But in a domestic setting there is plenty of food to go around.
So as your dog eats, start getting it comfortable to having someone else around it’s food. Drop a treat into it’s bowl. As he starts to accept this, then start touching it as he eats.
Ideally you should be able to touch the dog’s food, make noises around it as he eats, and even touch the dog while eating. Your dog should not snap or get aggressive. As adults we understand to “leave the dog alone.” Your baby will not, so you need to mitigate this potential problem.

Will your baby have it’s own room? If so let your dog get used to behaving well in it. Give your dog a special toy and “down” spot in the new room. Be over the top with praise when it behaves so it can learn.

Smells are important to dogs. They are how dogs identify other animals and people. So before your baby comes home, bring home a blanket from the hospital that has the baby’s scent all over it. Do NOT let the dog lick, bite at, play with or eat the blanket though! It should learn that the baby equals calm.

When you bring the baby home, you should greet the dog calmly and normally. Then have a 3rd party introduce the baby. This prevents a “shock” at first.

For praise, learn the art of clam praise. Let your dog used to clam praise and love so it doesn’t get hyper around the baby.

Keep the dog’s routine as normal as possible. Dogs are creatures of habit and need the stability they have grown accustomed to.

Make sure to include your dog in your activities with the baby. It needs to learn it has a new pack member, and is expected to behave around it.

Do not mix dog toys and baby toys, or let the dog play with the baby’s things. It will help train the dog to keep things separate.

If your dog starts misbehaving, chances are it needs more attention and assurance it is still a valued pack member.

　
Above all keep this in mind: you now have a bigger family full of more love. It’s a great thing so keep the positive attitude going with everything you do with your dog.

Bellingham Veterinarians are reporting a higher than usual number of cases of kennel cough in our community lately. What does that mean for your dog/

What Is Kennel Cough?
Kennel cough is a term loosely used to describe a complex of infections—both viral and bacterial—that causes inflammation of a dog’s voice box and windpipe. It’s a form of bronchitis and is similar to a chest cold in humans. Though it usually clears up on its own, kennel cough is highly contagious to other dogs.

What Are the General Symptoms of Kennel Cough?

A persistent dry cough with a “honking” sound is the main clue your dog’s caught kennel cough. In most cases, she’ll appear healthy except for the cough. Her appetite and activity level usually won't change, but don’t be alarmed if she gags and coughs up a white, foamy phlegm—these signs are often worse after exercise, or if she’s excited or pulls against her collar. Some dogs may also develop a fever and nasal discharge.

What Should I Do if I Think My Dog Has Kennel Cough?

If you suspect your dog has kennel cough, immediately isolate her from all other dogs and call your veterinarian.

How Did My Dog Catch Kennel Cough?

Dogs can catch kennel cough in several ways. It can spread through aerosols in the air, directly from dog to dog, or through germs on contaminated objects. Kennel cough is often spread in enclosed areas with poor air circulation—while boarding in a kennel or an animal shelter, for example, or through direct contact while sitting in a vaccination clinic, training class or dog-grooming facility.
Kennel cough is so contagious that your pet can even catch it from sharing a water dish at the dog park or by simply greeting another dog. Most kennels will not board your pet without proof of a recent vaccination against parainfluenza and bordetella, two of the main causes of kennel cough.

Which Dogs Are Prone to Kennel Cough?

Most often, dogs who have frequent contact with other dogs, especially in enclosed or poorly ventilated areas, are most prone to becoming infected. Young and unvaccinated dogs are also at higher risk.

How Is Kennel Cough Prevented?

The best way to prevent kennel cough is to prevent exposure. Vaccinations are also available for several of the agents known to be involved in kennel cough, including parainfluenza, bordetella and adenovirus-2. Ask your vet if these are recommended, and how often—but please keep in mind that vaccinations aren’t useful if a dog has already caught the virus.

How Is Kennel Cough Treated?

It’s smart to see your veterinarian if your dog develops a cough. In some cases, you may be advised to simply let kennel cough run its course and heed the following:

• Dogs with kennel cough should be isolated from other dogs.
• A humidifier or vaporizer can provide some relief. You can also allow your dog into the bathroom while you shower. The steam will help soothe her irritated breathing passages.
• Avoid exposing her to cigarette smoke or other noxious, irritating fumes.
• A cough suppressant or antimicrobial may be described. Your vet can be able to determine if they would be helpful to your dog.
• If your dog pulls against her collar while being walked, replace it with a harness until the coughing subsides.
• Supportive care is very important—be sure your dog is eating, drinking and in a stress-free environment.

How Long Does Kennel Cough Last?

In most cases, the signs of kennel cough gradually decrease and disappear after three weeks. Young puppies, elderly dogs and other immunocompromised animals may take up to six weeks or more to recover. In some cases, animals may remain infectious for long periods of time even after the symptoms have cleared up.

When Is It Time To See The Vet Again?

You should see some improvement in your dog’s condition within one week of treatment, but be alert to how long the symptoms last. If your dog has nasal discharge, is breathing rapidly, refuses to eat or seems lethargic, take her to the veterinarian right away. Serious cases of kennel cough can lead to pneumonia if left untreated.

What does Tails-A-Wagging do to prevent dogs from getting kennel cough?

All dogs that comes to Tails (day care, classes or doggie socials) are required to be up to date on their Bordetella vaccine. Our cleaning protocol is to treat everyday like a potential disease could walk thru the door, so all surfaces are cleaned and sanitized daily. This includes the floors, walls, toys, beds, water bowls etc. If a client informs us their dog is showing symptoms of kennel cough, we recommend they contact their veterinarian and the dog is not allowed to attend Tails until they are finished with all medication and are 5 days symptom free.