Q:
I was at Cornwall park today and there were about 50% of the dogs off leash that would charge towards my dog. I told them there was a leash law and they pretty much ignored me. What should I do? Also, is there something I could carry that I could use in case of a dog fight that would not be so detrimental to domino? I really get tired of people not following the rules and Domino is quite traumatized by this going on. What can I do?
thank you

A:
Even though there are 8 designated off leash areas in Whatcom County, we all experience off leash dogs in a leash required areas. Anyone with a dog has experienced it.  We all want to walk our dogs and have a joyful experience with them,  and not have to worry an off leash dog is going to run up to us and aggravate our dogs, upset us, create re-activity where there was once a calm experience. 

Whether your dog is reactive at other dogs or not,  having a dog on leash and being approached by a dog off leash is stressful, for both two and four legged walkers. 

Lets talk about our options  for prevention as well as solutions and a few things not to do.

Prevention: Its not fair,  but since most people abuse the leash law in parks and areas that have running space for dogs,  parks are the areas most taken advantage of by others.  We should all be able to utilize our parks, no one disputes that,  but since we cannot control the acts of others,  avoiding the parks all together is the viable choice. Choosing to walk your dog on sidewalks and trails near streets are great options.  Since those areas are closer to streets, they make them less safe for off leash dogs and almost always other dogs are leashed. Finding sidewalks that have more  trees and green space can be enjoyable for you. Some areas I  like are  the trail/sidewalks from Maritime Heritage Park to Elizabeth Park, or the paved trails in and around Western Washington University.  Sunnyland and Columbia neighborhoods are quite beautiful and I get a park feel every time I am there.   Maybe look at this as on opportunity to explore new neighborhoods.

Action: If you are walking your leashed dog and you see an off leash dog approaching you,  the best thing for you to do is leave. Just leave.  Tell your dog, in a happy voice "let's go" do an about-face and walk in the opposite direction.  Give your dog a treat for  turning with you and make a new route.  Yes,  it stinks that you should have to leave,  but at this time the most important thing is to mindful of the safety of you and your dog. As a dog approaches,  the physical act of you turning your shoulder away from the approaching dog is a sign to the dog to not engage and most approaching dogs will loose interest and not continue to approach.  When a dog is ignored, its a sign of respect.  Not "I respect you are the boss of me"  but "I respect what you bring to the table, good or bad" by turning away from the approaching dog and walking in the opposite direction, the approaching dog thinks he is being ignored and will go back to his previous activity. 

Sometimes the dog comes out of nowhere!  You are aware of your surroundings and all looks clear, then BAM... there he is.  At this point,  the dog is too close and the risk is greater to your dog.  You will still be turning away and leaving,  but as you do, reach into your treat pouch and grab a LARGE handful of you dehydrated liver and throw it right in the off leash dogs FACE.  Let me be clear,  its not 2 or 3 treats, its 20... its not near the dog its IN the face- make contact with the dogs face- you want the dog to feel the treats (they are light and will not hurt the dog)  and immediately smell the treats.  The treats will fall to the ground and the dog will be distracted making your exit easier.  Also, the dog will have to lower their head to eat the treats now on the ground,  this will be viewed by your dog as a calming signal and less threatening, making your dog less anxious, giving you an easier escape. 

"But, didn't I just reward the off leash dog for approaching"  Yup!  but who cares.  Your intent is to distract the approaching dog and you did what you intended to do. You gave you and your dog an out, use it. 

"The other owner is going to be mad I fed their dog without asking"  Yup!  but I don't care about this either.  If they were following the law, this would not have happened, so its on them, not me. 

"I don't carry treats when I walk my dog"  You do now!  A treat pouch full of stinky, high value tid-bits is one of the most valuable things you can have to distract a dog.  Keep your pouch full of dehydrated liver all the time,  it does not have to be refrigerated- so its convenient to keep hanging next to your dogs leash.  


What not to do:  Don't confront the owner of the off leash dog.  Trust me, they already know they are being a jerk and are breaking the rules...you bringing it to their attention will not do anything but upset you and your dog and risk your dog being put further into a situation you don't want.
Do call animal control.  Our Whatcom Humane Society is dedicated to helping you.  733-2080 ext 1.  Even if you think the owner/dog might be gone by then, its still good for them to keep record of the violation.  

Personally I am not a fan of pepper type sprays for this situation.  The approaching dog has to get so close you are at far greater risk of spraying your own dog.   The treat solution works far better.  

Walking your dog releases energy and stress. All dogs, no matter their size, should be walked daily.  Its a great bonding experience for you both.  Its an opportunity to exercise your dog,  train your dog,  play with your dog and all around love your dog.  Try to not let the bad behavior by others prevent you from a life with your dog. 

Now, get out there and walk the dog!
Angi Lenz

For more information about walking your dog peacefully or dealing with reactive behavior,  call us.  Tails-A-Wagging 733-7387.  www.tails-a-wagging.com

What do I feed my dogs?

What do I feed my dogs?

 

I am asked this question, just about everyday.  I think it is because clients know that  I feel very strongly that its my job to give you all the information I can, and then its your job to do what is best for you and your pets. I am happy to share what works for me and my dogs.

 

I cannot say there is only one best food for every dog.  I do feel there are general guidelines for any and all the food we feed our pets. Here are my “rules”:

 

1) Its something I would eat. Now... you all know I am a vegan but my pets are not.  HOWEVER,  although I would not eat an animal myself,  its important to me that the quality of the food I feed my pets is the same quality I would expect for myself. For me, this means its clean, pristine ingredients that are non GMO, organic whenever possible, free of dangerous chemical preservatives and fillers, and provides and assurance that the food has been manufactured, packed and held in accordance with federal regulations for human food. This means no by-products (think beaks, eyeballs and rendered animals) This rule is also true for the food that these animals are fed.

 

2)  No Fillers, dyes, colors and “extras”.  No wheat, no corn, no soy, no sugar,  no salt.  Although some dogs can digest these, to a point, dogs have no nutritional need for these and they are used to make cheap pet food. As a result you get a gassy dog and lots of stinky poop.... LOTS of poop.

 

3)  No preservatives or its preserved naturally. If no preservatives, this means the food is either going to be dehydrated,  frozen or refrigerated.  If it has preservatives I want to confirm they are not derived chemically,  this usually means

• Mixed Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

• Forms of Vitamin C

• Rosemary

• Sage

• Clove

Here are the common ones to avoid:

 

• Ethoxyquin – this is a pesticide and has been linked to cancer
• Propylene glycol- this is an ingredient in anti-freeze
• Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) – both are suspected of being cancer causing.
• Tertiary Butylhydroquinone (TBHQ )- a form of butane that is used to make varnish and resins
• Sodium Metabisulphite- a bleaching agent

4)  I make sure all the products I buy are made in the USA or Canada

 Specifically, I feed my dogs Honest Kitchen www.thehonestkitchen.com for their main meals. I usually stick to the grain free varieties,  because having such small dogs there are less calories and they get to eat a bit more, which they love.  I am not opposed to some grain for dogs, like oatmeal or barley and my dogs sometimes get a grain in a treat.  Honest Kitchen is a dehydrated dog food.  It’s a whole food, not a processed kibble. It looks like dehydrated soup mix.  Cost wise, I feel pretty good about it.  More than some, a lot less that others.  But, be aware you are buying a dehydrated food, so a 3 lbs. box will make 10 lbs. of food, don’t be mislead by the size of the container.  I enjoy giving my dogs a hot meal, it makes me feel good to mix it up and give it to them.  Its easy to stuff into Kong's and other food puzzles, which my dogs eat from everyday.  

3 to 5 times a week they do get a frozen  raw bone for 20  minutes. Sometimes, depending on the bone type,  this might be a meal replacement (remember my dogs  average 3 to 6 lbs. in size) This keeps my dogs teeth sparkling white and free of plaque and tarter.  We use chicken necks,  bison and beef ribs.  Always raw and frozen. I would NEVER give my dog a cooked bone.  Cooked bones are brittle and are the number one foreign body removed from a  dogs lower intestines.

Treats:  I use a few things for different reasons.  For walks out and about I use Ziwi Peak Daily Dog.  It’s a food, not a treat, so I don’t mind giving it all the time.  They also really like Pure Bites dehydrated chicken.   I also like Himalayan Dog Chew Yaky Puffs for chewies.  My dogs like carrots, zucchini and other raw veggies to snack on.

Supplements:  I do use some,  to aid in a few issues for pets: 

Coconut Oil:  for GI support

Apple Cider Vinegar:  Flea prevention

Brewers Yeast: Flea prevention

 

I get all my pets food and treats from petStop 360-738-3663.  The owners, Allan and Barbara, are very kind people who are always looking out for our animals best interest. 

Hope that helps!

Angi Lenz, owner Tails-A-Wagging

WHAT IS PET INSURANCE?

Every pet owner wants to keep their pet healthy and happy. That's why regular vet visits and giving pets the care they need in case of accident and illness is so important. Pet insurance can provide pet owners with financial support that can be used towards professional veterinary care, some related medical costs and benefits that help you deal with unexpected costs (and sometimes the preventive costs, too) of care. 

Regardless of your income or financial situation, if you're like most pet owners, you may not be setting aside the funds to provide veterinary medical care for your pet in the event of illness or an emergency. Even if you do, those sometimes the money get used for other expenses such as a child's college fund, home improvements, vacations, vehicle purchases and repairs.

Professional Care

Today, like with human healthcare, the veterinary medical profession continues to advance and can treat virtually any condition or injury that a pet may incur throughout their lifetime - provided they receive the required treatment early or quickly enough, and as long as the pet owner has the financial means to cover the real cost of care.

Pet health insurance is a useful financial tool that:

•  Protects you and your finances against unexpected medical costs
•  Ensures veterinarians can provide your pet with optimal care and the most advanced veterinary medical treatments
•  Prevents pet owners from having to make a financial decision to end a pet's life due to their inability to pay for the  needed treatments
•  Ensures a pet owner does not need to hesitate before taking a pet for veterinary treatment, or wait until a condition  worsens before feel it's worth the expense to visit their vet
•  Provides a plan for the costs of routine and even preventive care, if you have Wellness Care coverage

•  Assists you in helping your pet to live a healthier and sometimes longer life.

UNDERSTANDING COVERAGE

With other kinds of insurance, years may pass without you ever having to make a claim. Pet insurance is designed to be used. Unfortunately, experience has shown that it is likely that your pet will become ill or injured and need medical care, and as they age these risks only increase.

The earlier the better

If you're fortunate enough to have a healthy pet and you rarely need to claim, it doesn't necessarily mean you don't need coverage. Research has shown that up to 90% of veterinary expenses can happen in the last 10% of your pet's life. Like with human insurance, the earlier (and younger) you enroll your pet for coverage, the lower your premiums and deductibles will be, and the more likely it is that your pet will not have any pre-existing conditions that will be excluded from coverage.

The cost of coverage

The cost of coverage for all pets is decided the same way. There are three factors to consider: 1) the species/breed of your pet; 2) its age at the time of enrolment; and 3) where you live in Canada. These three factors help underwrite (calculate the cost and risks) every cat and dog.

Get your money's worth

As with many things in life, with pet insurance, you get what you pay for. Paying a higher premium affords you a higher level of coverage (and higher payouts or "benefits").

Knowing what to expect

• When you look for coverage, make sure that you know exactly what your pet is covered for - and what exclusions apply.  
• Carefully consider what level of coverage you think you might require for your pet, and what you can afford.
• Some pet insurance companies offer variable deductibles that will decrease or increase premiums.
• All pet insurance companies should post their coverage features on their website, or have them available by mail.
• Once you've made your decision and signed-up for a policy, familiarize yourself with what's included by reading through  the terms and conditions. Some insurance companies now offer coverage for services such as alternative treatments or US travel.

If you're thinking about getting pet insurance, you've already taken the right step in taking good care of your pet. Research your options, talk to your veterinary clinic staff and arm yourself with the information you need to make the right choice. Although pet insurance do not participate in direct billing yet, we are available to help you process your claims at your next visit to the clinic so you can receive your reimbursement. Here are links to the most popular pet insurance companies that our clients use for their pets:

Pets Plus Us - www.petsplusus.com

Trupanion - http://trupanion.com/canada

PetPlan - http://canada.gopetplan.com

Pet Secure -www.petsecure.com

Dangers of Alpha Rolling

Greta Kaplan, CPDT, CDBC

I read a tragic news article: “Puppy Owner Pleads Not Guilty for Choking Animal to Death,” Associated Press, February 26, 2010. According to the article, the owner admitted holding the 10-week old Labrador puppy down for 20 seconds after the puppy bit the owner’s girlfriend on the nose, causing what the Animal Services officer called “a minor scratch.”. According to the officer, the puppy was taken to an emergency vet where he “couldn’t walk, was breathing poorly and had reddish saliva and blue gums.” The puppy died.

Without further information, of course, we do not know what motivated the owner. Perhaps he was really angry and lost his temper, badly enough to kill the puppy. Certainly, this does not match the description given.

If we accept the description given, the owner deliberately held the puppy down, using quite a lot of force. It appears this holding-down maneuver was intended as a consequence for a bite to the girlfriend’s nose. It’s reasonable to conclude that the owner believed two things: First, that the bite to the nose was a seriously unacceptable, even aggressive act that justified severe discipline; and second, that holding a puppy down with severe force is an appropriate way to discipline a dog, including a ten-week old puppy.

Both of these propositions are false. First, puppies this age bite. It’s developmentally normal and almost never “aggressive.” (Serious aggression in puppies this age is so rare that it causes a flurry on trainer email lists if observed; many trainers simply never have seen it.) Second, holding a dog or puppy down as a form of discipline is dangerous and unnecessary.

The danger can be to the person if the dog is an adult, particularly a large one. Holding a large adult dog down puts the person’s face near the dog’s mouth, and a dog who panics, or decides not to put up with the human aggression, is very likely to target the face simply because it’s nearby. It can also be dangerous to the dog, as in this case, where the size and strength disparity was extreme.

This type of discipline is unnecessary. Dogs simply do not use “holding each other down” or “rolling other dogs over” as a way of punishing or enforcing status. Wolves may do it, but they do so extremely rarely; but in any case, dogs are not wolves; and even if they were, we are not wolves and do not remotely understand how and when to apply this type of serious, dangerous consequence. There are numerous other safer, saner and more effective ways to influence your dog’s behavior.

Where, then, would an owner get the idea this was a good tactic? One popular dog training book by The Monks of New Skete advocated the “alpha roll” in its first edition, about three decades ago. The second edition, much more recent, retracted that advice with an apology. However, the original edition is still out there; I recently saw a client who’d done a few alpha rolls on her young dog, based on that very book, which she’d picked up secondhand.

Realistically, though, not many people read that book any more. On the other hand, every week, millions of people watch a television star who often performs maneuvers very like the one that killed this puppy. You can watch, on YouTube and the National Geographic website, as this entertainer grabs dogs and pushes or slams them onto the ground. In some clips, you can literally see the dog’s tongue turning blue after some time on the ground. No wonder many pet owners might get the idea that this is a potentially appropriate response to perceived aggression from the dog.

And, this same performer often delivers this type of consequence for behavior described as “dominant.” I don’t doubt that he might describe normal puppy biting as “dominant.” So again, it’s no wonder that a pet owner might be led to perceive normal puppy biting as “dominant,” and to respond in a way he’d seen repeatedly modeled on TV.

I do not know whether the owner of the dead puppy, who is being charged with felony animal abuse, has watched “The Dog Whisperer” on TV. However, I don’t know one competent behavior consultant who did not immediately, on seeing this tragic news story, make the same guess I did. This type of human behavior is repeatedly modeled by a charismatic, persuasive, and apparently effective role model on an extremely popular television show. It is inevitable that someone was going to “try this at home” with disastrous results; and this puppy’s death might be that disastrous result.

Permission to cross post granted by:

www.companionanimalsolution.com

Greta Kaplan, CPDT, CDBC

                   Are you coming?  We hope so!

Barky McBarkerson

Hi Tails-A-Wagging, 
Can you help?  We are having a problem with Sammy,  our rescue dog.  We live on a fairly busy street, with lots of walk by traffic.  Sammy is running to the window and barking at everyone who passes by...it can go on for a bit,  but I really need your help.  I called another dog trainer who told me to throw a can of pennies at him and one who said to use a water bottle and spray him.  I tried both and he is getting worse.  My vet said to call you. Hoping for any advise you can give.

Rachael and Sammy in Fairhaven

Dear Rachael and Sammy,
Yes, we are happy to help.

What you are describing is Alert Barking. You can tell this type of barking from other types as he is looking at the thing he is trying to alert you to.  This is a normal and natural behavior in dogs.  Sammy sees the passer-byer's as a threat. Please note, this is  a situation your dog views as a threat, not necessarily something you see as a threat.   Maybe its a neighbor dog, maybe a mail carrier person or maybe a family member on a dimly lit porch. He is doing his job, to alert you to the dangers in the world, as he sees it.  When you reprimand and scold a dog for a normal and natural behavior they often hear "you suck at your job, do it better"  so the behavior can get worse.  Sammy only wants to the right thing,  he is just trying to succeed at his job.  To extinguish the behavior we are going to thank him, appreciate him and reward him for a job well done.

First, I want you to arm your home with several small closed containers of super yummy treats.  Keep them nearby, so you never have to go far to get some.   High value stuff here (dehydrated fish,  cheese, hot dog etc.) or better yet, get a treat pouch and keep it on you at all times.  When Sammy barks at a trigger, I want you to get up quickly and go to him fast,  tell him "THANK YOU"(light, happy-smiling voice) and give him the treat. Then quickly begin to back up and call him away "COME AWAY"  and give him another treat.  He may see the trigger again, and bark again, but just keep repeating the above.

WHAT?  did I just tell you to reward your dog for barking????

No... here's why.  You thanked your dog for a job well done.  By getting up and going to him,  you have acknowledged what he needed- for you to be made aware of the threat.  By giving him the treat, you are rewarding for the very last thing he did -  focusing on you and not barking!  Then by calling him away and rewarding him again,  you let him know what you want him to do after alerting you to the problem. 
Remember, its not that we don't want Sammy to bark, ever...  Believe me if someone was breaking in to your house, you want to know.  We just want him to understand that one or two barks is enough,  his job is done and he can settle, as you have it covered.

Now,  after working this for a few days, I want you to really pay attention to his body language BEFORE he alert barks.  The barks is probably the 3rd or 4th physical manifestation of the alert.  He probably 1) goes to the window 2)  tail goes up   3) ears go up  4) he alert barks.
I want you to now start thanking him and calling him away (remember, still rewarding twice)  for the non verbal alerts.  Let him know he does not need to  bark in order to do his job,  often he only needs to alert with his tail or ears.  Just like you, dogs want to expel the least amount of energy to get the job done. 

Yes, this means more work on your part. You need to be diligent and observe your dog.  Pay attention,  be mindful of his environment.

You will notice, over time,  his need to alert to you will gradually fade off.  Once he knows you are a team, working together.

All the best,
Angi,  Tails-A-Wagging

4th of July is not a time when your dog will celebrate

4^th of July is not a time when your dog will celebrate

 

Although Bellingham City Council just passed the ban on consumer fireworks in Bellingham ( YAY!)  it won’t go into effect until next year and it may take a few years after that for things to actually begin to settle down.

 

Here is a good plan on what to do for your dog who might be noise phobic with fireworks or other stimuli like storms.

 

Counter Conditioning and Desensitization

These two techniques are often used to change unwanted behavior in animals. Just as the term implies, counter conditioning means conditioning (training) an animal to display a behavior that is counter to (mutually exclusive of) an unacceptable behavior in response to a particular stimulus.

Desensitization involves gradually exposing a pet to the sound of fireworks, without provoking the unwanted reaction. Use of firework sound cd’s at an almost inaudible level,  while feeding your dog amazing treats is a good place to start (no dry biscuits here… think cheese or meat)

Desensitization is the process of exposing an animal to a stimulus beginning at a very low intensity. So low that it does not result in the undesired behavior.  The stimulus intensity is then increased gradually, without eliciting the unwanted behavior. If at anytime your dog becomes stressed you are going way too fast.  This process can take weeks to months… not days.

If the incremental increases are too large, or occur too quickly, the techniques will either not be effective, or may even make the problem worse. Implementing a counter conditioning and desensitization program requires some thought and planning.

 

Be a home body

If you know your dog has a tendency to become stressed when  hearing  fireworks,  don’t leave your dog alone.  You have many things in your life:  work, friends, family, your dog… But your dog may just have you.  Trust me, everything is easier for them when you are there.  Even the scary stuff.

 

Helpful Tools

There are many items that can assist you in achieving a more relaxed state from your dog:  Thunder Shirts  www.thundershirt.com , 

Rescue Remedy www.bachrescueremedypet.com

Dog Appeasing Pheromones www.dapdiffuser.com

T-Touch  www.ttouch.com

White Noise cd’s or machine

 

Experiment, before you actually need it… test to see how your dog is effected so you are more prepared.

 

Reduce the Stimuli

Close the blinds/drapes to  shut out the visual effects (flashes of lighting, lights, or sparks of fireworks) that your dog associates as reliable predictors of the bad noise.

Close all the windows, and use fans to help circulate the air.

 

If it helps you… hug your dog

Its very important that you stay calm.  If it brings you comfort to hold and soothe your dog, then do it.  You may think its reinforcing a bad behavior, but if you are in the thick of it we need to manage the situation- so by all means, if it relaxes you and therefore can relax your dog, go for it.

 

Food Puzzles

If your dog is only mildly sensitive, you might find using a food puzzle can distract them a lot.  Try this: (it take about 4 days to prepare)

Using a small plastic container pour in one inch of chicken broth and freeze.  Once frozen layer in another flavor of low fat plain yogurt, freeze again.  Drop in some meat pieces,  or liver treats, again with some broth and freeze… get the picture?  We are making a layered puzzle.  Mix it up by putting  a bully stick or Greenie in the center and a layer of peanut butter around it and give it one more freezing. Pop this out and feed it in a crate or and area where it won’t be a big deal with the floor.  (in the summer, this makes for a great yard treat)

 

Drugs

Although I strongly caution against using certain types of  tranquilizers that act like dissociative anesthetics; (ones that alter perception), which may make the dog more fearful, you may find working with a veterinarian who has a good understanding of short acting  anti anxiety medications might be a good choice for your dog