A responce from petStop regarding a tip featured in Dog Fancy Magazine

Dear Dog Fancy,

I felt it necessary to write and rebut the “Tip” on Page 17 of the July 2012 issue.  Debbie Swanson suggested snapping a digital picture of the lot number and date code off the bag of dry food before throwing it the container you store your food into.  I’ve been in the retail pet supply business for almost twenty years and if there is one lesson I’ve learned it’s to NOT store your pet’s food in any type of food storage container.

Especially hazardous are any type of plastic container.  Allow me to explain my reasoning:

First off regardless of the brand of dry food you feed, the bag it comes in has been designed to hold the food safely for a year or more.  You are paying for that safety when you purchase the food.  When the food is used up out goes the bag.

With plastic the fats tend to adhere.  Fats go rancid very quickly.  It’s not long before fresh kibble picks up the rancid odors and not much longer before rancid fat actually adheres to the otherwise fresh food.

Using Ms. Swanson’s own reasoning, “….lot number and expiration date in case of a recall.” May be helpful if you have a problem but leaves you without the ability, in most cases, to return the food to your retailer.  If a customer brings me a food to return in something, other than the bag it was purchased in, I am unable to refund or exchange it or even return it to our distributor for credit.  I am faced with the decision to absorb the loss or make it the customer’s problem.  Both are bad choices.   Also, it leaves the manufacturer unable to properly test the food since they have no idea if it’s from one lot or several without the original packaging.  Also, since so many dog kibbles look alike it may be impossible for anyone to determine what product is being returned.

Another issue is freshness, as the food is used up the volume of air increases in the container as opposed to simply rolling up the bag.

Here is a common, almost daily scenario.  A customer comes into the store saying their pet is tiring or bored of their food(s).  They have tried switching brands and formulas.  They will say the pet is fine for the first couple of servings then the pet is no longer interested, yet still seems hungry or will only eat it if forced to.  Assuming there is no health issues this is almost always a storage issue.

Another scenario, the customer comes in and has been to the vet several times with their pet complaining of diarrhea and or vomiting.  The vet has run all the usual tests, with negative results.  The vet has made all the usual food suggestions such as cooking for the pet some plain chicken and rice or canned food to help up the hydration, which works because the container has been eliminated.  They pet owner now goes back to their normal food and the problems start up again.

It is not uncommon for customers to argue that they’ve been doing it this way for years and never had a problem before.  Or how come the vet didn’t mention this as a possible issue. I offer up this suggestion, try our way.  Purchase the food that has historically worked the best for your pet. Leave it in the bag, do not use the container at all and see what happens.  It costs you nothing the experiment is free, if I’m wrong you can go back to doing what you’ve always done.   Rarely has anyone come back to tell us we were wrong, and it is very common to hear we were right.

There is zero advantage to food storage container, especially plastic, none.  I realize some need the protection of the container from the pet or other critters having access to the food.  In these situations we suggest getting a container that will hold the bag with the food in it.  You can roll up the bag tight and get it sealed in the container.  Our store’s philosophy is, “the food should never come in contact with anything other than the bag it came in until time to serve it.”

Alan Gardner

Owner

petStop

Bellingham, WA

www.petstopinfo.com

http://www.facebook.com/pages/petStop/167732099970013

Each year I get up to a dozen calls from frantic people who are searching for pets that ran away during the 4th of July fireworks. Some animals, especially dogs, react to loud noises such as thunder or fireworks, by panting, vocalizing, drooling, shaking, cowering or worse - running. A noise-phobic dog may break out of windows, claw through doors, and run until they are lost or exhausted. Many are hurt or never found. Be sure to have up to date ID tags on your animals and confirm your dogs microchip is registered with current information.

If you know that your dog reacts to loud noises, it’s time to prepare for the 4th.  If you’re not sure, find out today and plan accordingly.        

Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower essence, is a non-toxic liquid that works gently on the energy system to relieve stress and anxiety. It is available at most health food stores and many pet supply stores. Put 4 drops into the animal’s water dish and stir vigorously. Start today and continue through July 5th. You can also add to a dry treat and soak it up,  you can do that 4 times a day. Putting on your fingers then rubbing on a dogs whiskers is beneficial.


Thunder Shirts are a great option. They utilize presure points to relax the dog over all.  They can be worn continually or as needed.  Thundershirts can be purchased at any area pet store or online.


Calming Collars with at least 6% Pharmone release are an option. They release  the man made version of a mothers pharmones for a calming-relaxed effect.  Wearing it continually or as needed (like the thundershirt) has proven to be very effective.


Another human supplement now used with dogs is melatonin. It should be used for several consecutive days (before and during the 4th) and can calm the nerves and reduce anxiety. The Whole Dog Journal recommends that large dogs take about 3 mgs daily and dogs less than 30 pounds only 1.5 mgs. Herbal tinctures of valerian, skullcap or kava kava can also be helpful. Always check first with your veterinarian for exact doses and usage.


In addition to one of the calming supplements, it’s most important that your animals are kept in a safe place that they cannot escape from.  An interior bathroom with no windows is a nice dark quiet spot.  Play the radio or TV to cut down on the intensity of the outside noise, and reassure your pet that everything is OK.


It is best to not take your pet to a big celebration, and be aware of what is happening in the neighborhood.  Small firecrackers can upset as much as large ones, and dogs can ingest unexploded fireworks. Fur catches on fire easily too!


If your pet is stressed and wants to hide be sure to no coddle them and soothe them with your voice. When we say "its ok sweetie, it will be alright"  we are using the same tone as when we say "good girl sweetie, your doing just what I want you to do" Its best to keep them safe and ignore the behavior. 


Feed your dog 100% from food puzzles and kong today today.  Keep their mind busy and off the sounds around them.

Reactive Behavior in dogs

Reactivity in dogs is described as barking, lunging, growling, snapping and generalized vocalizing towards a trigger.  A trigger might be a person, a dog, a cat a bike or anything that causes stress to your dog. 

Dogs show reactive behavior to either make the “trigger” come closer or go further away.  You can determine which is the situation for your dog based on your dogs’ body language. (See body language handout)

In understanding reactivity in dogs, we need to first understand that dogs exhibit a behavior because they get a benefit from it.  By determining the benefit, you may be able to assist your dog in reducing their reactive behavior.

The most common reason for reactivity is our dog’s own self-confidence or lack thereof.  Lack of proper socialization at a young age is also part of the equation.  Knowing we, as their guardians, are ones to be trusted by offering predictable leadership behaviors to them is key.

Working with a reward-based trainer, one who specializes in reactivity in dogs is essential.  This trainer needs to have extensive training in reading body language and controlling stressed based impulse behaviors.

Here are things you can do, right now, to help your dog.

Remove all pressure from your dog’s neck when walking them.

            Choke chains, pinch collars and other neck restrictive collars can actually create reactivity in dogs.  One of the first and most important things we can easily do to help a dog feel more secure is to remove pressure from the dog's neck. Even the slightest pressure on the neck restricts breathing. In the moment of a fearful or anxious encounter (and this can include just looking at another dog or person), a sensation of choking or not being able to breathe only heightens the anxiety. In addition, one leash contact to a collar on the neck is not the most effective way to rebalance a dog that is pulling, straining, or leaning forward. The use of a Gentle Leader with a second point of contact on a harness removes the possibility of constant tension on the neck and helps us to bring the dog back into a position of balance on all four feet. The Gentle Leader also allows us to encourage the dog to avert his eyes or slightly turn his head away from another dog (which is a calming signal to the other dog) with a very small signal. 

It is extremely important to know that choke chains and pinch collars can also cause permanent damage to your dog’s trachea and muscle structure.  The purpose of these types of collars are to give a physical correction to the dog when they do the wrong thing (pull on leash, break a command etc.) the problem is that physical correction  can also instills a sense of fear in your dog.  Since they cannot trust what they fear, corrections can change the relationship we have with out dogs. 

Relax

It is important that the handler not react to the dog's reactions. This is not always easy if it is your own dog! Maintaining a calm, confident, and neutral emotional state when working with a reactive dog can greatly influence the dog's emotional state. Releasing tension from your body and being aware of your own balanced/neutral pelvis position makes you much more effective in the event the dog does react or suddenly pulls you toward the other dog.

Know your dog

            There is a distance your dog can be from the trigger at which they do not react.  This may be a football field, but there is a distance at which they are not showing signs of stress.  Keep this distance constant when you encounter a trigger.  If you are walking your dog and your dog is reactive towards other dogs and you see a person/dog team approaching, say nothing and quickly turn and go in the other direction.  This shows your dog you have taken control of the situation.  Reward your dog when they are calm and relaxed.  You may need to walk your dog early in the morning or late at night to minimize the triggers.

Do not react to your dogs reactivity

            If your dog goes off on a trigger and you reprimand, yell, tug, pull or otherwise react to your dogs behavior, you are feeding the problem.  Prevention is your best tool, until you can work with a trainer to learn behavior modification to reduce and eliminate the issue.

Our Getting to Calm Class is a great option for Reactive Dogs

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Choosing a Pet Sitter

Pet sitters do much more than provide a pet with food and water while their guardian is away from home.
A good pet sitter also spends quality time with the animal, gives him exercise and knows how to tell if he needs veterinary attention.

What's more, pet sitters typically offer additional services, such as taking in mail and newspapers and watering plants. But just because someone calls herself a pet sitter doesn't mean she's qualified to do the job.

Why hire a pet sitter?
A pet sitter—a professional, qualified individual paid to care for your pet—offers both you and your pet many benefits.

Your pet gets: The environment he knows best. His regular diet and routine. Relief from traveling to and staying in an unfamiliar place with other animals (such as a boarding kennel). Attention while you're away.

You get: Happier friends and neighbors, who aren't burdened with caring for your pet. The peace of mind that comes from knowing that your pet is being cared for by a professional. Someone to bring in your newspaper and mail so potential burglars don't know you're away. Someone who will come to your home so you don't have to drive your pet to a boarding kennel. Other services provided by most pet sitters, such as plant watering and pet grooming.

Where do I find a pet sitter?
Start with a recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society or dog trainer. Check online or in the Yellow Pages under "Pet Sitting Services." You can also contact the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (856-439-0324) or Pet Sitters International (336-983-9222).

What should I look for? It's important to learn all you can about a prospective pet sitters' qualifications and services. Before selecting a pet sitter, interview the candidates over the phone or at your home.

Find out the following: Can the pet sitter provide written proof that she has commercial liability insurance (to cover accidents and negligence) and is bonded (to protect against theft by a pet sitter or her employees)?
What training has the pet sitter completed?
Will the pet sitter record notes about your pet—such as his likes, dislikes, fears, habits, medical conditions, medications, and routines?
Is the pet sitter associated with a veterinarian who can provide emergency services?
What will happen if the pet sitter experiences car trouble or becomes ill?
Does she have a backup?
Will the pet sitter provide related services such as in-home grooming, dog walking, dog training and play time?
Will the pet sitter provide a written service contract spelling out services and fees?
If the pet sitter provides live-in services, what are the specific times she agrees to be with your pet?
Is this detailed in the contract?
How does your pet sitter make sure that you have returned home?
Will the pet sitter provide you with the phone numbers of other clients who have agreed to serve as references?
Even if you like what you hear from the pet sitter and from her references, it's important to have the prospective pet sitter come to your home to meet your pet before actually hiring her for a pet-sitting job. Watch how she interacts with your pet—does your pet seem comfortable with the person? If this visit goes well, start by hiring the pet sitter to care for your pet during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. That way, you can work out any problems before leaving your beloved pet in the pet sitter's care for longer periods. Helping the pet sitter and your pet

Of course, even the most trustworthy, experienced pet sitter will have trouble if you haven't also kept your end of the bargain.

Here are your responsibilities:
Make reservations with your pet sitter early, especially during holidays.
Ensure your pet is well socialized and allows strangers to handle him.
Affix current identification tags to your pet's collar.
Maintain current vaccinations for your pet.
Leave clear instructions detailing specific pet-care responsibilities and emergency contact information, including how to reach you and your veterinarian.
Leave pet food and supplies in one place.
Buy extra pet supplies in case you're away longer than planned.
Leave a key with a trustworthy neighbor as a backup, and give him and your pet sitter each other's phone numbers.
Be sure those extra keys work before giving them out.
Show the pet sitter your home's important safety features such as the circuit breaker and security system.
Finally, have a safe and fun trip. And remember to bring your pet sitter's phone number in case your plans change—or you just want to find out how Fluffy and Fido are doing.

Humane Society of the United States

Choosing a Dog Trainer

Too many dogs are given up after their normal, easily modifiable behaviors are allowed to become problems.

But it doesn't have to be this way. To prevent your dog from becoming a sad statistic, take your dog—and your family—to a professional dog training class. A good training class is a fun, social activity that helps your dog become a well-behaved, safe, and valued family member. This information will help you find the dog trainer and class environment that best fits your budget and needs.

Why training is a necessity

Whether you are intentionally teaching him or not, your canine friend is always learning—and this is true not just for puppies but also for older, adult dogs. If you do not teach your pet your rules, he will invent his own. Training allows caregivers to safely and humanely control their dog's behavior. Positive training enhances the bond between dog and owner, and helps ensure that your dog will respond happily to your instructions.

What to look for in a trainer

It's essential that the dog trainer you select uses humane training techniques that encourage appropriate behavior through such positive reinforcement as food, attention, play, or praise. Look for a trainer who ignores undesirable responses or withholds rewards until the dog behaves appropriately. Training techniques should never involve yelling, choking, shaking the scruff, tugging on the leash, alpha rolling (forcing the dog onto his back), or other actions that frighten or inflict pain.

Where to find a trainer

A recommendation from a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, humane society, boarding kennel, or groomer is a good place to start. You can also search online or check the Yellow Pages under "Pet Training." Don't assume that a trainer's membership in a dog trainer association qualifies him as a suitable instructor: Not all associations' membership criteria will meet your expectations. Also, because no government agency regulates or licenses trainers, it's that much more important to investigate their qualifications before enrolling in a class. Find out how many years of experience they have, how they were educated, and what training methods they use. Ask prospective trainers for several references from clients who completed the classes.

Which class format is best?

In group classes, dogs learn to interact with other dogs, accept handling by other people, and respond to their owners despite distractions. Owners learn by observing other people interacting with their dogs and benefit from the camaraderie. Self-help training, private lessons, and dog-only lessons that exclude the owner do not provide these important advantages. Another disadvantage of dog-only lessons is that the dog may respond well for the trainer but may not transfer what she has learned to you and your family.When possible, all family members should participate in the dog's training. By learning to communicate humanely and effectively with their canine friend, they will develop bonds that will form the basis of the entire relationship.

Group classes

Ask the trainer whether you can observe a class in session before signing up.

Watch for the following:Is class size limited to allow for individual attention?

Are there separate classes for puppies and adult dogs?

Are there different class levels (for example, beginner, intermediate, and advanced)?

Are training equipment and methods humane?

Does the trainer use a variety of methods to meet dogs' individual needs?

Is proof of vaccination required?

Are the students, both human and canine, enjoying themselves?

Are dogs and owners actively encouraged?

Is praise given frequently?Are voice commands given in upbeat tones?

Are lesson handouts available?

Is information available on how dogs learn, basic grooming, problem solving, and related topics?

The cost of a trainer

Training costs vary, depending on where you live and the type of instruction you want. Private lessons are usually priced per session; many group lessons are priced for several weeks of sessions. Some animal shelters offer subsidized training programs; the price of several weeks of sessions may depend on whether you adopted your dog from that shelter and the number of class sessions it provides.

The best age for training

Although "puppyhood" is the best time to train and socialize dogs, older dogs can learn new tricks, too. In fact, dogs of all ages can benefit from training. Dogs between 8 and 16 weeks of age should be enrolled in puppy classes. Regular classes are appropriate for dogs 6 months or older.

Before you go

When you have selected a training program:Have your dog examined by your veterinarian to ensure your pet is healthy, free from parasites, and up-to-date on vaccinations.Don't feed your dog a large meal before class because many trainers rely on food treats to encourage or reward desired behavior.Bring the training equipment recommended by the trainer.Practice between classes with brief lessons that end on a positive note.By enrolling and actively participating in a dog training class, you will help your dog become not just a well-behaved member of your family, but also a safer member of your community.

For more information on choosing a dog trainer, consult the Association of Pet Dog Trainers* at 150 Executive Center Drive, Box 35, Greenville, SC 29615; call 800-PET-DOGS or visit them online at www.apdt.com.

information available from HSUS