OMG! My dog got kicked out of day care!

I wish it was not true, but people are always surprised there are  a fair number of dogs who do not get accepted into OUR day care.  Our temperament test is second to none,  and yes the expectations are high- and one might be surprised we always have a waiting list to get into our facility.  In 15 yrs we have never NOT had a waiting list. 

So, besides the socialization level of a dog to other dogs and people, what is the most common reason a dog does not get accepted into Tails-A-Wagging?

Demand Behaviors:
This can be demand barking (at people or other dogs)  as well as pushy behaviors,  basically a dog demanding something from someone.  "BARK"  throw my ball!  "BARK" Play with me "BARK" Your not doing what I want fast enough!  Demand behaviors are a sign of a dog with little to no impulse control and the behavior is not tolerated here.  If a doggie day care did allow that behavior, one would see a high turn over of staff,  a lot of scuffles with the dogs,  stressed out dogs and the staff that did stick around?  Well, they are just running around managing everyone all day.  Not a fun place for anyone to be.

Crate Training:
All the dogs at Tails have a nap time in the middle of the day.  This is done in a crate, with a snack (like a treat stuffed Kong)  Its is simply not safe for a dog to be running around 11 hrs a day without a structured break.  No... napping in the play room does not count. They need to settle their body and their mind. Crate naps prevent injury and over stimulation.

General Bad Manners:
Jumping up,  not holding the cue asked of them, disrespectful greeting to another dog...at Tails we care for the best of the best!  If you are not willing to put the time and energy into helping your dog be the best they can be, its silly to expect someone else to.

Our day care staff have lots of dog training experience,  so we can always jump in and address any concern with an existing dog at day care.  Hey,  they are dogs!  Like kids, stuff is bound to pop up. We evaluate it, address it and eliminate it quickly using all reward based- dog friendly methods. Basically this is using clicker training to mark the correct behavior we want from the dog.
If a behavior concern does arise, we inform the client right away and start a progress report.  This is an evaluation that all staff complete of the particular issue with a dog, and how it was addressed that day and how the dog is showing improvement.

Why do we use food to train a new behavior with dogs?

A question I am often asked when referring to reinforcing the dog’s desirable behaviour with a treat, or using a clicker and following up with a treat is: “Do I have to use food to train my dog?”

You don’t have to use any particular tool to train your dog. Professionals like food because it is one of the most powerful motivators in animal training. The reality is that you get more strongly conditioned behaviour if you do not limit yourself to praise alone.

Another advantage of food is that you can use it to target the dog into position. Food, therefore, has two roles: as a target (“lure”) and as a reward. Training with positive reinforcement allows the dog to relax and learn and strengthens the bond between you and the dog. Over time, you can expect “more for your money”, that is more behaviours for fewer treats. You will also become skillful at incorporating other rewards into training.

Aren’t I actually bribing my dog by luring him into position with a treat?
You can’t bribe a dog for doing something he doesn’t even yet have in his repertoire! Put yourself in his place. Imagine that someone said “palana”. What would you do? Nothing, because you don’t understand what that person wants you to do let alone why you should do it. Physically placing your dog into position slows down learning and has negative side effects. Using a target allows you to elegantly obtain the correct behaviour.

Will I always have to food reward my dog?
Certainly not as frequently as for a newer behaviour, but yes, maintenance of established behaviour with (concealed) intermittent rewards is a must. There is no free lunch in behaviour. Think of it this way: you have to feed your dog anyway. You can give it all to him for free in a bowl or you can reserve part of his daily caloric intake and make him earn it! Also, don’t forget that there are other rewards besides food: everyday things such as play, sniffing, walks, door opening, car rides and access to other dogs can also be used to reward established behaviour.
Dogs are just like us: if they can’t win, they won’t play, so it’s our job to make the dog successful. Even if you like your job, you expect to be paid and if you’re not, you quit…

This post is courtesy of:

A responce from petStop regarding a tip featured in Dog Fancy Magazine

Dear Dog Fancy,

I felt it necessary to write and rebut the “Tip” on Page 17 of the July 2012 issue.  Debbie Swanson suggested snapping a digital picture of the lot number and date code off the bag of dry food before throwing it the container you store your food into.  I’ve been in the retail pet supply business for almost twenty years and if there is one lesson I’ve learned it’s to NOT store your pet’s food in any type of food storage container.

Especially hazardous are any type of plastic container.  Allow me to explain my reasoning:

First off regardless of the brand of dry food you feed, the bag it comes in has been designed to hold the food safely for a year or more.  You are paying for that safety when you purchase the food.  When the food is used up out goes the bag.

With plastic the fats tend to adhere.  Fats go rancid very quickly.  It’s not long before fresh kibble picks up the rancid odors and not much longer before rancid fat actually adheres to the otherwise fresh food.

Using Ms. Swanson’s own reasoning, “….lot number and expiration date in case of a recall.” May be helpful if you have a problem but leaves you without the ability, in most cases, to return the food to your retailer.  If a customer brings me a food to return in something, other than the bag it was purchased in, I am unable to refund or exchange it or even return it to our distributor for credit.  I am faced with the decision to absorb the loss or make it the customer’s problem.  Both are bad choices.   Also, it leaves the manufacturer unable to properly test the food since they have no idea if it’s from one lot or several without the original packaging.  Also, since so many dog kibbles look alike it may be impossible for anyone to determine what product is being returned.

Another issue is freshness, as the food is used up the volume of air increases in the container as opposed to simply rolling up the bag.

Here is a common, almost daily scenario.  A customer comes into the store saying their pet is tiring or bored of their food(s).  They have tried switching brands and formulas.  They will say the pet is fine for the first couple of servings then the pet is no longer interested, yet still seems hungry or will only eat it if forced to.  Assuming there is no health issues this is almost always a storage issue.

Another scenario, the customer comes in and has been to the vet several times with their pet complaining of diarrhea and or vomiting.  The vet has run all the usual tests, with negative results.  The vet has made all the usual food suggestions such as cooking for the pet some plain chicken and rice or canned food to help up the hydration, which works because the container has been eliminated.  They pet owner now goes back to their normal food and the problems start up again.

It is not uncommon for customers to argue that they’ve been doing it this way for years and never had a problem before.  Or how come the vet didn’t mention this as a possible issue. I offer up this suggestion, try our way.  Purchase the food that has historically worked the best for your pet. Leave it in the bag, do not use the container at all and see what happens.  It costs you nothing the experiment is free, if I’m wrong you can go back to doing what you’ve always done.   Rarely has anyone come back to tell us we were wrong, and it is very common to hear we were right.

There is zero advantage to food storage container, especially plastic, none.  I realize some need the protection of the container from the pet or other critters having access to the food.  In these situations we suggest getting a container that will hold the bag with the food in it.  You can roll up the bag tight and get it sealed in the container.  Our store’s philosophy is, “the food should never come in contact with anything other than the bag it came in until time to serve it.”

Alan Gardner

Owner

petStop

Bellingham, WA

www.petstopinfo.com

http://www.facebook.com/pages/petStop/167732099970013

Each year I get up to a dozen calls from frantic people who are searching for pets that ran away during the 4th of July fireworks. Some animals, especially dogs, react to loud noises such as thunder or fireworks, by panting, vocalizing, drooling, shaking, cowering or worse - running. A noise-phobic dog may break out of windows, claw through doors, and run until they are lost or exhausted. Many are hurt or never found. Be sure to have up to date ID tags on your animals and confirm your dogs microchip is registered with current information.

If you know that your dog reacts to loud noises, it’s time to prepare for the 4th.  If you’re not sure, find out today and plan accordingly.        

Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower essence, is a non-toxic liquid that works gently on the energy system to relieve stress and anxiety. It is available at most health food stores and many pet supply stores. Put 4 drops into the animal’s water dish and stir vigorously. Start today and continue through July 5th. You can also add to a dry treat and soak it up,  you can do that 4 times a day. Putting on your fingers then rubbing on a dogs whiskers is beneficial.


Thunder Shirts are a great option. They utilize presure points to relax the dog over all.  They can be worn continually or as needed.  Thundershirts can be purchased at any area pet store or online.


Calming Collars with at least 6% Pharmone release are an option. They release  the man made version of a mothers pharmones for a calming-relaxed effect.  Wearing it continually or as needed (like the thundershirt) has proven to be very effective.


Another human supplement now used with dogs is melatonin. It should be used for several consecutive days (before and during the 4th) and can calm the nerves and reduce anxiety. The Whole Dog Journal recommends that large dogs take about 3 mgs daily and dogs less than 30 pounds only 1.5 mgs. Herbal tinctures of valerian, skullcap or kava kava can also be helpful. Always check first with your veterinarian for exact doses and usage.


In addition to one of the calming supplements, it’s most important that your animals are kept in a safe place that they cannot escape from.  An interior bathroom with no windows is a nice dark quiet spot.  Play the radio or TV to cut down on the intensity of the outside noise, and reassure your pet that everything is OK.


It is best to not take your pet to a big celebration, and be aware of what is happening in the neighborhood.  Small firecrackers can upset as much as large ones, and dogs can ingest unexploded fireworks. Fur catches on fire easily too!


If your pet is stressed and wants to hide be sure to no coddle them and soothe them with your voice. When we say "its ok sweetie, it will be alright"  we are using the same tone as when we say "good girl sweetie, your doing just what I want you to do" Its best to keep them safe and ignore the behavior. 


Feed your dog 100% from food puzzles and kong today today.  Keep their mind busy and off the sounds around them.

Reactive Behavior in dogs

Reactivity in dogs is described as barking, lunging, growling, snapping and generalized vocalizing towards a trigger.  A trigger might be a person, a dog, a cat a bike or anything that causes stress to your dog. 

Dogs show reactive behavior to either make the “trigger” come closer or go further away.  You can determine which is the situation for your dog based on your dogs’ body language. (See body language handout)

In understanding reactivity in dogs, we need to first understand that dogs exhibit a behavior because they get a benefit from it.  By determining the benefit, you may be able to assist your dog in reducing their reactive behavior.

The most common reason for reactivity is our dog’s own self-confidence or lack thereof.  Lack of proper socialization at a young age is also part of the equation.  Knowing we, as their guardians, are ones to be trusted by offering predictable leadership behaviors to them is key.

Working with a reward-based trainer, one who specializes in reactivity in dogs is essential.  This trainer needs to have extensive training in reading body language and controlling stressed based impulse behaviors.

Here are things you can do, right now, to help your dog.

Remove all pressure from your dog’s neck when walking them.

            Choke chains, pinch collars and other neck restrictive collars can actually create reactivity in dogs.  One of the first and most important things we can easily do to help a dog feel more secure is to remove pressure from the dog's neck. Even the slightest pressure on the neck restricts breathing. In the moment of a fearful or anxious encounter (and this can include just looking at another dog or person), a sensation of choking or not being able to breathe only heightens the anxiety. In addition, one leash contact to a collar on the neck is not the most effective way to rebalance a dog that is pulling, straining, or leaning forward. The use of a Gentle Leader with a second point of contact on a harness removes the possibility of constant tension on the neck and helps us to bring the dog back into a position of balance on all four feet. The Gentle Leader also allows us to encourage the dog to avert his eyes or slightly turn his head away from another dog (which is a calming signal to the other dog) with a very small signal. 

It is extremely important to know that choke chains and pinch collars can also cause permanent damage to your dog’s trachea and muscle structure.  The purpose of these types of collars are to give a physical correction to the dog when they do the wrong thing (pull on leash, break a command etc.) the problem is that physical correction  can also instills a sense of fear in your dog.  Since they cannot trust what they fear, corrections can change the relationship we have with out dogs. 

Relax

It is important that the handler not react to the dog's reactions. This is not always easy if it is your own dog! Maintaining a calm, confident, and neutral emotional state when working with a reactive dog can greatly influence the dog's emotional state. Releasing tension from your body and being aware of your own balanced/neutral pelvis position makes you much more effective in the event the dog does react or suddenly pulls you toward the other dog.

Know your dog

            There is a distance your dog can be from the trigger at which they do not react.  This may be a football field, but there is a distance at which they are not showing signs of stress.  Keep this distance constant when you encounter a trigger.  If you are walking your dog and your dog is reactive towards other dogs and you see a person/dog team approaching, say nothing and quickly turn and go in the other direction.  This shows your dog you have taken control of the situation.  Reward your dog when they are calm and relaxed.  You may need to walk your dog early in the morning or late at night to minimize the triggers.

Do not react to your dogs reactivity

            If your dog goes off on a trigger and you reprimand, yell, tug, pull or otherwise react to your dogs behavior, you are feeding the problem.  Prevention is your best tool, until you can work with a trainer to learn behavior modification to reduce and eliminate the issue.

Our Getting to Calm Class is a great option for Reactive Dogs

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